?Startup Issues - WTF?

Just a question...did your problem happen on key on, before you turned it over?
 
wicked said:
no,only running,once when turning it over.
Different problem then. Mine is on "key on" before I even attempt to turn it over.
 
Ok, so back to this problem. I came out of the diner the other night, the car was sitting for 45 mins or so.

I turn the key into the ON position...and POP.

When I turned the car over, it started running off the charts rich at idle (richer than 10:1).

I let it warm up, no dice.

I started to drive around, and my A:F ratio was all over hte place. 10:1, 18:1, anything but stoich.

So I check my ECU, and it's giving me weird MAF codes. I shut the car down, pop the hood, and switch to my alternate MAF (the MAF I normally run is on the boosted side, but I also still have the MAF behind the air filter bolted on just in case). I fired the car up and everything was perfect. Drove an hour home.

I'm guessing that "POP" made some kind of backfire through my intake (like my friend theorized before...see page 4 of this thread) and fried my MAF.

Tonight, I finally got around to pulling the "bad" MAF out, only to discover that it's completely missing the thin MAF wire that it uses to determine the A:F ratio. I don't know where the hell it went. It could have run through the motor (damaging things in the process), or it could still be sitting in my IC/IC pipes somewhere. FABULOUS.

Tomorrow night I'm going to pull the plugs and do a comp check to check for signs of damage.
 
Wow Dana, that blows. What ever came of the o2 sensor issue? Are you still going to run the boosted MAF? What do you think caused the motor to sneeze through the intake?
 
BradC said:
Wow Dana, that blows. What ever came of the o2 sensor issue?

Everything was fine with that once I turned the idle screw up.

Are you still going to run the boosted MAF?

Yes, only because I think I know what caused it to happen.

What do you think caused the motor to sneeze through the intake?

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1883289&postcount=48

Also, every time I ran his test, it never happened. Between that fact and what happened the other night, I think he's right.
 
idle screw

where is the idle screw? I assume it can raise the idle by adjusting the air fuel mixture.......i have a protege 5...2.0 motor....
 
Ok, so in the past two weekends, I've replaced 7 of my 8 injectors in hopes to rule out my "leaky injector" theory (I couldn't replace all 8 since I didn't have 8 new ones).

The other day, after I replaced said injectors, I turned the key on. Instead of the normal "pop" sound on key-on, it was a little more of a "whoosh" sound...like fluid was being sprayed.

Just to check, I pulled spark plugs 3 and 4. BOTH of them were wet with fuel. THIS explains some things...

When it did make the "pop" sound:
-It was hard to start (since the plug was soaked w/ fuel)
-It would run crappy and stall (same reason)
-After holding the revs at 3K for a couple of minutes, all would be well again (since it would finally burn off said fuel)

I put everything back together and went to turn it over. It took a good 10 seconds to start, and then according to my WBO2, I was running rich (11:1 or so).

Eventually it made it's way back to stoich.

So, SOMETIMES on key on, it seems like fuel is being sprayed into the cylinder somehow...
 
Can you disconnect the extra injectors and rule out the MPI making them fire prematurely?

Does the MPI change any values of your stock injectors, or only controls the added injectors?
 
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BradC said:
Can you disconnect the extra injectors and rule out the MPI making them fire prematurely?

Yeah, I planned on just pulling the plugs off of them for that reason.

Just for grins, I watched what my MPI does during startup, and it apparently does not turn the injectors on. But I'll still disconnect them to see.

Does the MPI change any values of your stock injectors, or only controls the added injectors?

Just the extra injectors.
 
Kooldino said:
Just for grins, I watched what my MPI does during startup, and it apparently does not turn the injectors on. But I'll still disconnect them to see.

Even though its not reporting a signal to them, maybe it is malfunctioning somehow and not displaying that??

I doubt the stock ECU is telling the stock injectors to douse your plugs at startup, there has to be something though...
 
BradC said:
Even though its not reporting a signal to them, maybe it is malfunctioning somehow and not displaying that??

I doubt the stock ECU is telling the stock injectors to douse your plugs at startup, there has to be something though...
I totally agree.
 
Ok, so here's what I did THIS weekend:

I made a power switch to turn the MPI on and off. It also works as a kill switch, since the MPI sits between the ECU and the ignition coils.

So now, i can have the MPI switched OFF and turn the key ON. No "pop" noise. Then, I'll flip the switch, turning the MPI ON. Pop goes the weasel.
 
Kooldino said:
Ok, so here's what I did THIS weekend:

I made a power switch to turn the MPI on and off. It also works as a kill switch, since the MPI sits between the ECU and the ignition coils.

So now, i can have the MPI switched OFF and turn the key ON. No "pop" noise. Then, I'll flip the switch, turning the MPI ON. Pop goes the weasel.
Did you do the unplug the injectors thing? Where you at Zoom-zoom live, it was (first) !
 
No ZZL for me.

I didn't try the injector unplug thing, only because it's a pain to do evey time (it would take about 3 mins to pull every time i wanted to do it...the plugs are hard to get to).
 
So if im reading this right... MPI = T3h l053?
Kooldino said:
Ok, so here's what I did THIS weekend:

I made a power switch to turn the MPI on and off. It also works as a kill switch, since the MPI sits between the ECU and the ignition coils.

So now, i can have the MPI switched OFF and turn the key ON. No "pop" noise. Then, I'll flip the switch, turning the MPI ON. Pop goes the weasel.
 
Ok, so here's what I do every time I start my car.

The switch I ran to power on/off the MPI Tuner is set to OFF.

I turn the key into the ON position.

I switch the MPI switch to ON and watch the boost gauge.

If I don't hear the "pop", I turn the car over.

If I DO hear the "pop", I'll usually notice that the boost gauge jumps to about 20psi for a second. Odd...especially since the motor isn't running. It's like something is holding that pressure and releasing it when I hit that switch. Either that, or something is CREATING that pressure when I turn that switch...
 
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