Stalled....WTF!!!!!!!!!

[BiGx5MurF]

Sorry to thread jack, but a couple months ago, maybe like 10k miles ago. I stopped for a red, and my engine just shut off. It started up again quickly, and has never happened since. Anyone have any ideas why that may've happened?

 

[BeNegative]

optima yellow is best w/ subs. expect 2 pay bux 4 it tho. (red is sufficient and a lil cheaper) a good ground kit and possibly a capacitor.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

optima yellow is best w/ subs. expect 2 pay bux 4 it tho. (red is sufficient and a lil cheaper) a good ground kit and possibly a capacitor.

A cap is a no-brainer, but you can find Optima batteries really cheap at Costco.

 

[BeNegative]

A cap is a no-brainer, but you can find Optima batteries really cheap at Costco.

costco only has red here covered in dust. u can do w/o the cap but not wise if running all that power.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

costco only has red here covered in dust. u can do w/o the cap but not wise if running all that power.

My local Costco had Red, Yellow, and even Blue I think. Not sure what thoseare for, but I seem to remember them having them.

 

[anarchistchiken]

Blue are for marine application arent they?

I'm running a 1500 watt setup and I can tell you, a cap is not neccesary. Lights dim like a b****, but lights dimming dont qualify a $200 expense to fix it imho.

As long as you dont let your battery die the stock ones will hold up pretty well too (I've had my system for about 6 months and the battery is still fine)

 

[anarchistchiken]

At batterymart.com

Yellow top = 129.99

Red top = 104.99

By far the best prices I found, and shippings not horrible. I'm thinkin about buying one now.

 

[BeNegative]

Blue are for marine application arent they?

I'm running a 1500 watt setup and I can tell you, a cap is not neccesary. Lights dim like a b****, but lights dimming dont qualify a $200 expense to fix it imho.

As long as you dont let your battery die the stock ones will hold up pretty well too (I've had my system for about 6 months and the battery is still fine)

yep, similar set-up on the wattage and i'm still on stock battery no cap or grounds 4 over a year now...lites don't dim when pushing 4 power; car is 3 yrs old...i just want the power distributed more efficently so grounds r a-commin. yellow costs over $200 here (if u can find it). costco here sells only red for about $190 and the blue was about $160 (I think, only glanced at the price).

 

[anarchistchiken]

I doubt it. Blues are more expensive than either of the other ones on all the websites I looked at.

I doubt they'll charge more than $70 to ship to you, even in hawaii, so that website is still a better option than retail.

 

[toucci]

Sorry to thread jack, but a couple months ago, maybe like 10k miles ago. I stopped for a red, and my engine just shut off. It started up again quickly, and has never happened since. Anyone have any ideas why that may've happened?

Was your A/C on? I had this issue once, but my idle wasn't very smooth. The solutiuon was to tighten the idle adjustment control screw to make it idle slightly higher, and reset the ECU so it would idle smoothly.

 

[BiGx5MurF]

Was your A/C on? I had this issue once, but my idle wasn't very smooth. The solutiuon was to tighten the idle adjustment control screw to make it idle slightly higher, and reset the ECU so it would idle smoothly.

Come to think of it, I think the AC was on. Can you elaborate on this idle adjustment control screw?

When you say reset the ecu, do you just disconnect the battery, and reconnect it?

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Come to think of it, I think the AC was on. Can you elaborate on this idle adjustment control screw?

When you say reset the ecu, do you just disconnect the battery, and reconnect it?

Don't worry about the idle adjustment screw. The shop manual tells where it is and how to adjust it, but it also states in bold letters "THE SCREW IS SET AT THE FACTORY AND DOES NOT NEED TO BE ADJUSTED EVER!" THat kinda thing, so don't worry about that.

 

[toucci]

Don't worry about the idle adjustment screw. The shop manual tells where it is and how to adjust it, but it also states in bold letters "THE SCREW IS SET AT THE FACTORY AND DOES NOT NEED TO BE ADJUSTED EVER!" THat kinda thing, so don't worry about that.

people have taken their cars to the dealerships for the stalling problem and they adjusted it. it's certainly the solution to this problem.

bigx5murf, the screw is located on the drivers side (intake side) of the throttle body, on the bottom towards the rear. you access it from the side of the car. use an 8mm wrench to loosen the locking nut and then a 4mm hex wrench to adjust it. turn clockwise to raise the idle, counterclockwise to lower it. I'd say give it a couple turns and see how the car idles when it's warm and not moving.

 

[BiGx5MurF]

people have taken their cars to the dealerships for the stalling problem and they adjusted it. it's certainly the solution to this problem.

bigx5murf, the screw is located on the drivers side (intake side) of the throttle body, on the bottom towards the rear. you access it from the side of the car. use an 8mm wrench to loosen the locking nut and then a 4mm hex wrench to adjust it. turn clockwise to raise the idle, counterclockwise to lower it. I'd say give it a couple turns and see how the car idles when it's warm and not moving.

Thanks for the reply, if this stalling ever happens again, I'll be sure to try it out. But since the last time it happened, i've put on 13k, so my fingers are crossed.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Well, the FSM states not to touch the idle adjustment screw, but ifyou must, be sure to do it with the engine at normal operation temperature, A/C on and a fairly decent electrical load on the system.

 

[anarchistchiken]

Max, if it was never to be adjusted, then why would it be there at all?

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Max, if it was never to be adjusted, then why would it be there at all?

All that screw does is basically pre-load the throttle calbe. If you tighten that screw, it's like having the throttle on a tiny bit, all the time. The idle speed of the engine itself is controlled by the ECM, and not by that screw. The absolute only reason I could see to adjust that screw would be on an older car with like 200,000 Miles that had a stretched throttle calbe. Then you can use the screw to tighten it. But otherwise, the ECM controls the idle speed, and in fact adjusting the screw will proably mess up your high-idle quite a bit. When you start up a cold engine if the screw is adjustedwrong, you may berevving as high as 3000RPM, since the high idle is controlled strictly by the ECM, and having too much throttle valve open will raise it quite a bit. (Next time your car is in high idle, crack the torottle jsut a hair and watch how high it goes.)