SkyActiv Oil Analysis Thread

Since we're on the subject of oil consumption:

I owned a 2004 Acura RSX Type S. These weren't particularly known for burning oil...some did but most didn't. I followed the 10k "recommended" schedule up until my oil light came on around 55k. The engine took maybe 4 qts and I had burned through enough of that within 10k to trigger the light. After that I started monitoring usage. Ultimately it was burning a quart every 2500 miles...not terrible but not great. It also developed a timing chain tensioner slap (pretty common on those engines) that may or may not have been encouraged by long OCIs.

I've had my 2015 CX5 GT for almost 10 years now. Coming up on 100k miles and I've changed the oil every 5k and it consumes about 1/2 qt every 5k and that's been consistent at least for the past 8 years.

Anyway, I wonder if these 10k OCIs factories recommend are just too long? Also, most of us probably need to maintain our cars using the manual's "extreme" schedule. Short trips and city driving is how I mainly drive and those repeated shut downs and start ups can't be great on an engine.
 
Also, most of us probably need to maintain our cars using the manual's "extreme" schedule. Short trips and city driving is how I mainly drive and those repeated shut downs and start ups can't be great on an engine.
Also, with iStop on the later turbo engines, that's gotta be even worse. That's the reason I disabled iStop on my CX-50 turbo.
 
Also, with iStop on the later turbo engines, that's gotta be even worse. That's the reason I disabled iStop on my CX-50 turbo.
The Car Care Nut on YouTube had a good video about engine start/stop systems and while he explained how well the systems work and how they won’t destroy your engine, I still feel like the trade offs aren’t worth the potential but what do I know?
 
The Car Care Nut on YouTube had a good video about engine start/stop systems and while he explained how well the systems work and how they won’t destroy your engine, I still feel like the trade offs aren’t worth the potential but what do I know?
To the end user it just means you can't go cheap when replacing your battery. But everything else has been significantly beefed up to handle start/stop.
 
2022 CX-9 here: I just got my latest UOA back, and thought i'd share. This was my sixth change, and everything seems to be settling in nicely. I consistently have a small amount of Potassium showing up however.

Has anyone seen this, or hypothesised sources of K that don't include coolant leak? It's not enough to show any major signs of failure, but it's not ZERO.

I have heard that some cooled EGR systems can cause trace amounts until they fully break in, but I haven't really seen this in any of the examples in this thread (though there are a lot of pages!).

I'm also wondering how much affect environment can play. We're on the east coast, and live next to the water. There were also a few forest fires last summer, and we were close enough to have ash fallout on our property, apparently that can also cause trace amounts of Potassium.

Next sample will be with Pennzoil U.P. i'm curious to compare.
 

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Mine has 0 Potasssium but I use different oil. I am in the desert if it matters but probably not.
The mazda factory fill had some Potassium on mine too.
It could be the oil type. See other UOA for the same oil and compare.
All seems good.
 
Mine has 0 Potasssium but I use different oil. I am in the desert if it matters but probably not.
The mazda factory fill had some Potassium on mine too.
It could be the oil type. See other UOA for the same oil and compare.
All seems good.

OK, nice! Fresh samples of Supertech Synthetic does not contain any K, but will keep watching.

All these samples I have been sending to Toromont for analysis. It's a bit costly to ship across border to Blackstone, but I probably should send one there to compare values.
 
Latest UOA with Amsoil Xl 5w30 for 2.5T . Fuel is creeping up lately. Likely I would try another oil next time , something from the Euro league that has higher viscosity and hths.

IMG_5406.jpeg
 
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4% after only 3500 miles. Viscosity is still ok, if not a little lower than in the past. Flash point is low. Do you think you went on throttle more this interval?
 
Yes. because of the summer uoa dillution , this time I went on a longer drive before removing the oil. But I do have terrible short term drives lately and this winter was unusually cold here. So probably that plays a role.

What is interesting to me is that there is no change in the oil level on the dipstick. Because of the oil burning in past Turbo models I do check it regularly.
 
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4% after only 3500 miles. Viscosity is still ok, if not a little lower than in the past. Flash point is low. Do you think you went on throttle more this interval?
The oil held up ok for the interval but is borderline. The elements are almost none. But if I went for 6000 l-7000 it may have been different story.
Also I dont trust Blackstone fuel % - its likely more. Will check/compare other lab next time.

I rarely go at high throttle unless on ramps or highways and that probably also plays a role + short distances.
The euro c3 spec oils may be better fit for dealing with it. I do change oil frequently and because I dont drive the Turbo much its usually less than 3-4k miles per interval. The engine top is very clean when inspected from the oil cap.

I do have a non-Turbo one too. My conclusion is Turbo will always have much more fuel for city and short driving. vs the non-turbo. Seems the Turbo likes to be driven hard. And also seems its running rich by design to protect the turbo. By tailpipes are black :)
No such issues on my 2018 with similar driving style.
 
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2017 cx5 bought new. We had the oil changed by the dealer for the first 100k. I’ve been doing it with Mobil 1 since then. Tested the oil for the first time (155k) and potassium and sodium was high. There was slight coolant loss. I’m about to send in a second sample after putting 1500 miles on it to see what we get.
 

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Second oil change. 1 year and 3100 miles on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. Compared to the first change:
  • Iron, Aluminum, Copper are lower per mile driven, evidence of engine break-in progressing.
  • Silicon is much lower, evidence of engine assembly lube and any dirt or dust getting washed out.
  • You're seeing the new additive package coming in from the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Molybdenum count is the same as the Idemitsu however it is tri-nuclear and therefore more potent. Boron is a friction modifier working alongside Moly so in total there is a much greater amount of friction modifiers in use in this oil. Calcium is lower to help prevent LSPI on small turbocharged engines making a lot of torque at low RPMs. With that, Magnesium is being used as an alternative detergent.
  • Fuel dilution is lower, evidence of piston rings sealing better as break-in progresses.
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Also, take a look at the bottom of the bowl I used for the oil filter. Maybe 1/2 cup landed there but look at that glitter. I'm not sure if this is representative of the oil that came out of the pan, but the oil analysis gives me some peace of mind.

 
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Why is copper that high in the 2nd oil change?
Iron is bit higher too.

mine (copper) was at 44 - 850 miles first oil change and then 23 after 4500 more miles next oil change. On the 3rd oil change it dropped to 6.
iron started at 11 then went to 4. I do change oil every 6months.
ps never had any glitter. Its interesting.
 

This was a good read.

Current suspect is the EGR cooler.

I suspect the glitter is there on most of these engines when new, but you have to look for it.
 

This was a good read.

Current suspect is the EGR cooler.

I suspect the glitter is there on most of these engines when new, but you have to look for it.
glitter is normal in a new engine here was mine..I have been changing oil in new cars since 1977 and first oil change and often second oil change especially if the first one was changed early which I have always done has glitter. if you want a shocker cut open the oil filter....
 

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Why is copper that high in the 2nd oil change?
Iron is bit higher too.

mine (copper) was at 44 - 850 miles first oil change and then 23 after 4500 more miles next oil change. On the 3rd oil change it dropped to 6.
iron started at 11 then went to 4. I do change oil every 6months.
ps never had any glitter. Its interesting.
I'll get my oil analyzed on the next oil change at about 11k mi to compare our turbo to N7Turbo's report.
 
I'll get my oil analyzed on the next oil change at about 11k mi to compare our turbo to N7Turbo's report.
to be an apples to apples you need to use the same oil analyzer he used. I have sent samples to blackstone and the other major one that slips my mind at the moment and same sample produces a bit different numbers...my next change will be around 33000 miles and that should be a good time to send a sample in. I am guessing most of the breaking in will be done. i run ours pretty hard and mostly keep it in sport mode.
 
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