Update! Did a leak-down compression test today, and a coolant test after I warmed up the engine. Good news is that there is no exhaust gas coming through the coolant system or through the oil pan. But there was a significant leak on cylinder 4. I could hear it, but couldn't pinpoint where the leak was going. So I did the gloves on the tailpipe trick and bingo. The gloves inflated. So next step is to remove the head. I knew I was going to have to anyway, but it's a good bit of knowledge gained.
My working theory at this point is that I have some bad exhaust valve(s) and I have leaking valve stem seals. But I'm not really convinced I have a blown head gasket. We will see....
My working theory at this point is that I have some bad exhaust valve(s) and I have leaking valve stem seals. But I'm not really convinced I have a blown head gasket. We will see....
N7turbo
2023 CX-5 2.5T ... 2024 MX-5 RF GT
It could be although that wouldn't explain the coolant loss.
Nope, I don't have an answer for that little mystery yet. Maybe the gasket was weeping a little into a cylinder. The loss wasn't fast. It would take a few hundred miles before I'd have to top up the reservoir tank. I'll just have to see when I get the head off. IF i get the head off! I made pretty good progress today, but I'm stuck on the exhaust manifold, and looking at the instructions, it looks like an absolute nightmare! I'd appreciate any suggestions anyone has.
Guy is the man to ask I would think - I have gotten a response from him within the YT comments section.
propflux01
2024 CX5 Signature
Sounds to me like a burned valve.
Oof, spent about 2 hours last night on my back in the driveway just trying to disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust! The nuts they used on there were made out of room temperature butter, but just on the edges where a socket might need to grab! lol. Ended up cutting off the edges of the nuts with a dremmel. I've never wished I had a lift more.
Tonight's progress: Got the engine supported from below, removed the engine mount, alternator. water pump pully, crank pully finally the timing chain cover!!! There are a TON of bolts on that cover. I'm sure I removed a couple I didn't need to.
I'm attaching a couple of pictures in case you'd like to see what the inside of the timing chain cover looks like aft 300k miles. Found a couple spots of sludge, but so far nothing too shocking.
I'm attaching a couple of pictures in case you'd like to see what the inside of the timing chain cover looks like aft 300k miles. Found a couple spots of sludge, but so far nothing too shocking.
HyFlyer
2019 CX5 sig 2.2 diesel / 2016.5 CX5 touring 2.5na
- :
- Southwest Ohio
Yes please
Thanks for taking the time to post your adventures. I'm following along with your saga.
New Update with lots of pictures!
Saturday I got the timing chain off and cams out. There seems to be a good bit of wear on the rockers, but nothing really bad on the cam lobes. I found one cam journal that has the slightest ring on it that just barely catches my fingernail. I hope it can be polished out.
Saturday I got the timing chain off and cams out. There seems to be a good bit of wear on the rockers, but nothing really bad on the cam lobes. I found one cam journal that has the slightest ring on it that just barely catches my fingernail. I hope it can be polished out.
Attachments
And today I removed the Head. I checked all over as best as possible and can't find any cracks. Head Gasket didn't seem to be blown out, and the cylinder walls look okay to me. Sure, they've lost their cross-hatching, but there is no ring ridge, or scoring that my fingernails can catch on.
You can pretty easily see which cylinder was burning oil For that one I did spray some Penetrating oil down on top of the exhaust valves, and one did leak. The intake valves amazingly didn't!
Please let me know if anyone sees anything I should be alarmed at. I hope to take the head to a machine shop to get thoroughly checked out this week.
You can pretty easily see which cylinder was burning oil For that one I did spray some Penetrating oil down on top of the exhaust valves, and one did leak. The intake valves amazingly didn't!
Please let me know if anyone sees anything I should be alarmed at. I hope to take the head to a machine shop to get thoroughly checked out this week.
Attachments
Just an update. The machine shop verified that the head has no cracks, and did find pitting in the valve seat. They are doing a valve job, decking the surface and will replace valve seals. Hope to have it back next week sometime and will start the rebuild process.
I ordered an engine gasket set and since I'm in there anyway:
Water pump -- Though the bearing on the original still feels good.
Timing Set -- Everything looked good, but the tensioner seemed pretty far extended.
Radiator -- Dang plastic neck broke when I was loosening the hose. And hose tore!
Thermostat -- why not?
Now I need to clean all of the surfaces and get all of the carbon off the piston crowns. Lot of prep work...
I ordered an engine gasket set and since I'm in there anyway:
Water pump -- Though the bearing on the original still feels good.
Timing Set -- Everything looked good, but the tensioner seemed pretty far extended.
Radiator -- Dang plastic neck broke when I was loosening the hose. And hose tore!
Thermostat -- why not?
Now I need to clean all of the surfaces and get all of the carbon off the piston crowns. Lot of prep work...
Friday update! Got the block side of the head cleaned. Used carb cleaner and plastic razors to clean off the old gasket. Wasn't too bad. Started cleaning the piston crowns. I shoved paper towel in all of the openings I cold, and put head bolts in, then hit the piston crown with carb cleaner and a dremel cleaning brush, which is like a mini 3M roloc brush. Worked great on the first couple of pistons. I haven't tried on the most junked up one yet.
For the cylinder head, I waited all week to get a gasket kit in from rockauto, and got the wrong kit! They have it listed for a 2.5 engine, which is what I have, but when I opened it, the head gasket was WAY off from the original. Looked up the part number on the manufacturer's site, and yeh, it's for a 2.0, NOT a 2.5. So now I have to wait another week to return the old kit and get a new one. I wouldn't care sooo much, but the weather is getting colder outside and I'm working in the driveway! Double-check part fitment by google'ing the part number and looking at the maker's site is the lesson for today.
For the cylinder head, I waited all week to get a gasket kit in from rockauto, and got the wrong kit! They have it listed for a 2.5 engine, which is what I have, but when I opened it, the head gasket was WAY off from the original. Looked up the part number on the manufacturer's site, and yeh, it's for a 2.0, NOT a 2.5. So now I have to wait another week to return the old kit and get a new one. I wouldn't care sooo much, but the weather is getting colder outside and I'm working in the driveway! Double-check part fitment by google'ing the part number and looking at the maker's site is the lesson for today.
You mention Rockauto for the gasket kit. I don't know what brand you ordered, but from the "what it's worth" department, years ago when doing the lower intake gaskets on my Buick 3800-2 I got OEM GM gaskets from the dealer to minimize any problems. Even back then I was reading about Fel-Pro gaskets not holding up well or other problems. And, IIRC, the solid aluminum frame GM gaskets were considerably stouter than the Fel-pro. Like I said, I don't know what you ordered but after all of this trouble I'd hate to see you sideswiped by gasket failure down the road.
