Roof Rack For The Mazda5 Thread

[mazdaspeedster3]

Do they look like what is on the 5 above your post?

 

[coolmazda5]

I think mazdaspeedster3 really likes showing off his rack in this forum, oh wait, What did I just write? LOL

Install-uninstall is relatively straightforward, you just need the lock keys that came with the rack to open its base covers and unscrew. Now, before you do it, Did the dealer give you back the little plastic roof "hole" covers (4, 1 for each base)? Those are needed after uninstalling so no water/dust gets into the left holes where the roof frame is.

See pics:

Closed:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=124041

Opened with the key, then just unscrew each (counter-clockwise I believe)
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=124039

 

[AIMWO4]

I went with a cargo box...

 

[coolmazda5]

I went with a cargo box...

I didn't know that in Colorado is legal to carry your kids in the cargo box, happy kid to say the least though (lol2)

But wow, that is awesome, even the liftgate opens fully and everything, clever.

 

[batmick]

Rack and box picture at last

Sorry for the long delay. I had promised pics a while back but never got around to it.
Here they are at last. From our camping trip to Zion.
To recap, those are the Mazda factory racks and a Thule Cascade 1500 box I got used off Craigslist. Install was quick and painless as was the removal after the trip. The hardest part is to find a storage spot in the garage...

I was surprised how little noise the box/rack combo added to the drive and gas mileage was better than expected too. We averaged 25.5 mpg over the 1000 mile trip. But crosswinds really do get a grip on you and we had a couple of scary moments while going through the canyon region between AZ and UT.

No way we could have made this trip without the box. 2 adults and two kids and all the camping gear for two weeks.

 

[ZoomZoomZoomer]

Rear Cargo Box warning

I went with a cargo box...

RESEARCH WARNING!

I emailed RackAttack online regarding the best cargo solution for my Mazda5. We were considering the rear hitch cargo box. We were planning to swap out the box for a bike/ski hitch when needed. This is what RackAttack told us.

"If you are interested in looking into a rear-mounted system, you would have to get a trailer hitch installed. However, the Mazda 5 can only handle a Class 1 trailer hitch, which is the smallest class of hitch for vehicles. This would mean that you would be able to get a bike rack with a 2-bike maximum carrying capacity. You could then add a ski rack to that, but the car is not terribly high, so if you have long skis, there is a risk of hitting the ground. You cannot put cargo carriers on Class 1 hitches at all, so if you would like something like that you would have to put it on the roof. It looks as though the roof solution would be the best solution, but it all depends on what you want to carry with what, and in what kind of quantities (ie. bikes).
If you do want to go ahead with a hitch, give one of our stores a call.
Thanks. Rack Attack. www.rackattack.com"

I'm concerned that a rear cargo box or Class 2 hitch might compromise the car's safety, my warantee, or my insurance coverage. There are reasons that Mazda doesn't sell hitches for M5s. The manual clearly states: Do not tow anything.

 

[AIMWO4]

Yeah... I'm sure they are the experts. (bowdown) Your one post here also makes me wonder how much "research" you did. LOL

Hitch has 200 LB tongue weight capacity.
Box + cargo can equal ~ 150 LBs (Under the llimit)
Bike rack + 2 bikes is less than 200 LBs
Mazda5 has a 1200+ LB capaicity (Net to Gross)

And that's from memory!

1 Post. (notcool)

RESEARCH WARNING!

I emailed RackAttack online regarding the best cargo solution for my Mazda5. We were considering the rear hitch cargo box. We were planning to swap out the box for a bike/ski hitch when needed. This is what RackAttack told us.

"If you are interested in looking into a rear-mounted system, you would have to get a trailer hitch installed. However, the Mazda 5 can only handle a Class 1 trailer hitch, which is the smallest class of hitch for vehicles. This would mean that you would be able to get a bike rack with a 2-bike maximum carrying capacity. You could then add a ski rack to that, but the car is not terribly high, so if you have long skis, there is a risk of hitting the ground. You cannot put cargo carriers on Class 1 hitches at all, so if you would like something like that you would have to put it on the roof. It looks as though the roof solution would be the best solution, but it all depends on what you want to carry with what, and in what kind of quantities (ie. bikes).
If you do want to go ahead with a hitch, give one of our stores a call.
Thanks. Rack Attack. www.rackattack.com"

I'm concerned that a rear cargo box or Class 2 hitch might compromise the car's safety, my warantee, or my insurance coverage. There are reasons that Mazda doesn't sell hitches for M5s. The manual clearly states: Do not tow anything.

 

[batmick]

would like to know the reason...

It has been discussed in some other thread, I believe, why the US model of the M5 with the 2.3 liter engine has virtually no towing capacity while the European models (even with the smaller engines) are fine for smaller trailers etc..
If you ask me there were lawyers involved at some point who saw potential for suits because of oversized trailers getting hooked up or similar. So the safest thing to do was to just forbid all towing.
I agree with AIMWO4 that the cargo box is probably safely within what the car can handle. But ZZZ has a point with the warranty/insurance issue. With the "no towing" clause they all covered their butts and passed the old maid to the owners.

 

[remarquian]

Yeah... I'm sure they are the experts. (bowdown) Your one post here also makes me wonder how much "research" you did. LOL

Hitch has 200 LB tongue weight capacity.
Box + cargo can equal ~ 150 LBs (Under the llimit)
Bike rack + 2 bikes is less than 200 LBs
Mazda5 has a 1200+ LB capaicity (Net to Gross)

It's been 25 years since I took statics in engineering school, but I would assume that is 200 lb tongue capacity as where the ball of the hitch would normally be. So that is:

200lb x whatever the distance from the ball to the closest set of bolts worth of torque.

From what I can tell from your pictures with the cargo box, you are doubling the distance from the closest set of bolts to the center of gravity of the box. This means to have the same moment or torque, you'd need to halve your weight.

 

[AIMWO4]

It's a cargo box. The weight won't change no matter how far it is from the closest set of bolts. I believe statics deals more with force. This would apply to the stability of the weight as it protrudes further from where it meets the supporting structure. Weight remains a constant.

Loosely, the 200 LB tongue weight is based on 10% of the weight of a 2000 LB trailer resting on the hitch. This is the max recommended in order to provide for a level ride. If I were to place a scale under the weight carrying portion of the hitch, it would not change no matter how far the box extended from the vehicle. But the force at the pivot point would increase.

Now I only work with satellites... so I could be off... I don't deal much with gravity. (nana)

1 post. tsk tsk

It's been 25 years since I took statics in engineering school, but I would assume that is 200 lb tongue capacity as where the ball of the hitch would normally be. So that is:

200lb x whatever the distance from the ball to the closest set of bolts worth of torque.

From what I can tell from your pictures with the cargo box, you are doubling the distance from the closest set of bolts to the center of gravity of the box. This means to have the same moment or torque, you'd need to halve your weight.

 

[mazdaspeedster3]

Just go the roof rack route if you plan to load that sucker up. If you are just thinking bikes and skis I wouldnt worry about the hitch and go whatever way works best. I have roof racks on both cars and would love to switch over to hitch racks, better aerodynamics.

 

[mrbaumer]

Loosely, the 200 LB tongue weight is based on 10% of the weight of a 2000 LB trailer resting on the hitch. This is the max recommended in order to provide for a level ride. If I were to place a scale under the weight carrying portion of the hitch, it would not change no matter how far the box extended from the vehicle. But the force at the pivot point would increase.

If this is the case, then a four-bike rack shouldn't be a problem with a class I hitch, since the total weight would be unlikely to reach 200 lbs. However, Softride, Thule, Yakima, etc. etc. all state pretty clearly that four-bike hitch racks are only for class II hitches and above. They must have some reason for saying that -- why exclude class I hitches if you could sell more racks?

That being said, I'd love to hear from anyone who's actually carried four bikes on the back of a Mazda5. Just got mine, and I'm disappointed to learn that my plan of installing a Softride to carry the family bikes may not work... Rather not incur the gas mileage penalty and expense of a roof rack.

 

[remarquian]

Loosely, the 200 LB tongue weight is based on 10% of the weight of a 2000 LB trailer resting on the hitch. This is the max recommended in order to provide for a level ride. If I were to place a scale under the weight carrying portion of the hitch, it would not change no matter how far the box extended from the vehicle. But the force at the pivot point would increase.

But force at the pivot point IS the point.

A 200lb tongue is different than a 200lb cargo box. The 200lb tongue weight is straight down on the ball of the hitch. The hitch acts like a lever on the bolts, and in conjunction with the car on the wheels. When you add the cargo box, you rigidly attach it to the receiver, extending the lever by a foot or so. This is why as you extend the lever out, you need to drop weight to keep the forces on the wheels and bolts the same.

Archimedes said about the lever:
"Give me a place to stand and I will move the Earth."

 

[OldGreyMike]

Recycled my Thule setup

I was not amused to find that there wasn't a ready-made fit kit for my old Thule setup with easy-on/easy-off Tracker II foot pack, 58" load bars, and kayak stacker that has worked so well for me with multiple Dodge minivans over the years.

I looked at all the alternatives, and could not find anything nearly as good with lockable-pushbutton ease of removal comparable to what I already had. So, with a little creative engineering I adapted the ~$69 USD 3069 fit kit for use with the TK-1/Tracker II foot pack combo, and I'm back in business.

Was delighted to find that I only had to narrow the placement of the feet on the bar by 1" total for the M5. And yes, the bars have enough clearance allow the moonroof to open with no problem.

Will post pics of the result when I get a minute.

 

[rweatherford]

Now I only work with satellites... so I could be off... I don't deal much with gravity. (nana)

1 post. tsk tsk

Might want to pay attention to gravity while here on earth.....


Definately matters if the load extends rearward further than a normal hitch ball. Changes the designed load spec.

 

[mazdaspeedster3]

I was not amused to find that there wasn't a ready-made fit kit for my old Thule setup with easy-on/easy-off Tracker II foot pack, 58" load bars, and kayak stacker that has worked so well for me with multiple Dodge minivans over the years.

I looked at all the alternatives, and could not find anything nearly as good with lockable-pushbutton ease of removal comparable to what I already had. So, with a little creative engineering I adapted the ~$69 USD 3069 fit kit for use with the TK-1/Tracker II foot pack combo, and I'm back in business.

Was delighted to find that I only had to narrow the placement of the feet on the bar by 1" total for the M5. And yes, the bars have enough clearance allow the moonroof to open with no problem.

Will post pics of the result when I get a minute.

post up some pics, Would love to see what you worked out!

 

[OldGreyMike]

OK, here are the pix showing a little detail. What you can't really see is that the Thule TK-1 adapter is also bolted to a fabricated steel plate that sits on top of the rubber 3069 fit kit, and the single bolt that comes up from the roof passes through rubber foot, the steel plate, and the TK-1 at the top.

As to water, I ran a little experiment running some water down the hole left with the little plastic cover removed from the roof trim, and no worries. It's designed so that any water that gets in there runs down the inside of the track, through a channel along the side of the windshield, and down the vent drain to the pavement beneath the car. Try it out and you will see what I mean.

Thinking about using the towing eye as a tiedown in the front for extra safety along with tiedown to the back tow loops, but never used any tiedowns before with my old setup. But, there were at least 10 more bolts (with the rails) holding the rack on the roof on my old Caravans. Four bolts total doesn't seem like a lot...

 

[red headz]

But, there were at least 10 more bolts (with the rails) holding the rack on the roof on my old Caravans. Four bolts total doesn't seem like a lot...

I couldn't agree more.

And regarding the sunroof opening - seems like everyone can open their sunroof w/o hitting the bars, it's all the attachments (boxes, bike trays & skis...) that seem to hit or just nick the sunroof when it's wide open.

With our Yakima rack and Rocketbox, if we open the sunroof wide open, we are within millimeters of clearance between Rocketbox and back side of sunroof. Now that said, it's noisy as a 747 pushing all that air around and we normally just 'tilt' the roof with the rack in place.

 

[OldGreyMike]

No problem with kayaks on, moonroof doesn't hit them in my case. But as you say, the noise is really loud, so I wouldn't recommend keeping it open!

BTW, I did wind up using the tiedown eyebolt in the front, and strapped the kayaks both fore and aft. I suggest carefully removing and detaching the plastic cover where the eyebolt screws in, so that it doesn't flap around while you are underway. It does come off easily without damage if you take a moment to see how it is attached and work carefully.

 

[timur]

FYI, Amazon is having a 20% sale and free shipping on Thule racks. I just bought a 669ES for my 2006 Mazda 5. I'll let you guys know how it works.