Return of the Turbo MP3!!!

Kooldino said:
Yellow MP3 #1108
Spool Stage 2/3 @ 5psi - Beavis block - custom recirculatiing BOV - Kartboy shift bushings - Whislter Radar Detector - Blue Underbody neons (for car shows only) - Yellow Painted Cals - alarm - tinted windows - yellow Sparkco wires - ACT organic clutch - Fidanza 9lb flyhwheel - Mazda Motorsports front motor mount - 01 LX ECU

what exactly is a beavis block?

and what stage clutch do u have?
 
Oh s***....almost!

On a different note, I went for a test drive today to the gas station a few blocks away from home. After filling up on 93, I noticed that the J&S was registering knock. I had the sensitivity up too high. As I was going to pull out of the gas station, I had my PDA DYno hooked up, and noticed that the coolant temp was like 207 F. I thought, this is normal because I was sitting still. I go to pull out and start my journey to the exhuast shop, and look at it again. 235 F! :eek::confused: Not normal! :wtf:I pull over immediately and turn up the heat, and open the hood. The stock temp needle was half way between the the normal reading and Hot. It cooled down relatively fast. Called up Perfworks and did some preliminary investigation. I touched the radiator cap, and it was cool to the touch. (hmm) Furthermore, the upper radiator hose was just a little warm instead of hot. A friend had pulled over to help me out. He opened the radiator cap, and the coolant was not at the top! As Perfworks requested, I left the cap off, and "limped" home. The oil dipstick was checked with good results. When we got there, we took out the thermostat and closed the housing so that there would be straight flow. We filled the radiator with water, left off the radiator cap, and started the engine. Watching for a while (with the PDA Dyno hooked up) we started to notice that the coolant was getting sucked down, and that the upper radiator hose was getting hot. This was a good sign as it meant that the water pump was working. After watching the temp get to 183 F, and staying steady, we were satisfied that the thermostat was the problem. Until I get a new, stock thermostat, my ride is in the garage. A big thanks to Jermemy and Perfworks for keeping a brotha stay calm as I have grown paranoid. (nervous) Time to call Corksport Monday and request a refund on the Mazdaspeed Thermastat, or a replacement.
 
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AWR Motor Mounts....Motul 600.....THA s***!!!

Well besides the extra cabin vibes, these things do thier job well. I noticed no backlash that I used to have. When I tapped the gas slightly, it just lurched forward instead of the hesitation I used to get. (wow) Also, I bled the brake/clutch system and put in Motul 600 brake fluid. What a difference in the clutch and brake pedals. Nice and stiff!(thumb) and not as squishy as before! The clutch is harder to push down.
 
falkofire said:


what exactly is a beavis block?


Beavis block:

spacer.jpg
 
you need to come to the ricer hangout one night im off, i need to check out your ride.
 
Stealth5 said:
you need to come to the ricer hangout one night im off, i need to check out your ride.

Once I get my s*** right, I will be back at CiCi's on Fridays at Green Oaks and I-20.
 
falkofire said:

I don't follow?:confused: :wtf:

That big square looking thing mounted between the thermostat housings.....That's the spacer block that Little Beavis crafted to make space for his downpipe..
 
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falkofire said:


what exactly is a beavis block?

The Beavis Block is a block designed by Little Beavis that is a spacer for between the block and where the radiator flange connects to it. Without it, the flange will hit the downpipe on a Spool kit.

and what stage clutch do u have?

Stage I = organic
Stage III = Kevlar
 
Well folks, after some reading in the shop manual, I realized that I skipped some vital steps after adding coolant. Yes, I just learn a basic, yet important lesson...No simple procedure is below me! Anyway, I am gonna go home and test the thermostat in some boiling water in a pot, and then reinstall it (if working), and follow the proper procedures. :rolleyes:
 
linux, whats the disadvantages/advantages of running our cars with no thermostat? i used to do it with my old truck and will be willing to do it with my car...but does anyone know if itll screw up the comp or something? thanks
 
duMb KeoLa said:
whats the proper procedures man? oh, and whered you get all your gaskets, seals, etc for the new engine from? thanks

For the 1st question see image below. For the 2nd question, it was answered above. Hope this helps!

coolant_procedure.jpg
 
duMb KeoLa said:
linux, whats the disadvantages/advantages of running our cars with no thermostat? i used to do it with my old truck and will be willing to do it with my car...but does anyone know if itll screw up the comp or something? thanks

This I think is bad for winter because your heater doesn't get as hot, and it takes your car a lot longer to warm up. Someone jump in if I am wrong!
 
I tested the thermostat, and it opened just fine. Works great. I will now later put in more coolant using the proper precedure.
 
LinuxRacr said:


This I think is bad for winter because your heater doesn't get as hot, and it takes your car a lot longer to warm up. Someone jump in if I am wrong!

So for those of us that live in places without winter the downside would be???
 

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