Replacing Lower Oil Pan

[MasonMetcalfe]

Has anyone done this? mine seems like its going to rust through so I dont want my oil going everwhere looking at replacing it. My question lies with the FSM, it shows the procedure to remove it but also along with the Main Bearing Support Plate and the 'integrated stiffiner' is all this nessecary or can I just drain the oil, crack off the lower pan and stick a new one on with some gaskets and sealer?

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Yup. Drain the oil, take it off, and throw it in the garbage. Replace it with an AWR pan if you value your engine.

 

[Magus]

MasonMetcalfe
If you drive your car relatively fast in the corners, you should look into the AWR pan. It hold more oil (3.7 vs 5.1) and has baffles to help keep the engine from oil starving. This is how I killed my first engine. When they were installing the new motor, I had them install the oil pan. Be aware when you go to install this you will need to uninstall your exhaust pipe to get to some bolts on the pan. The mechanic also mentioned that he had to use longer bolts when installing the AWR pan. The clearance of the pan to one of the structural parts is very small. I would not recommend installing it without a stiffer front motor mount.

 

[MasonMetcalfe]

thanks for the advice, will get to this asap

 

[CheeseHelmet]

My old pan rusted through too, changing it is relatively easy. The only thing you need to remove is the plastic splash guard and the j-pipe (don't re-use the old gaskets, get new ones from Mazda). The bolts holding the pan will come out with ease no matter how horribly rusty they look. Use a rubber mallet to knock the pan off, clean the bottom of the block with a scraper, and put on the new pan (with a thin layer of grey RTV). The service manual has a specific order to tighten down the bolts, follow it to prevent leaks in the future. Also take note of the torque specs for those bolts, it's very low.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

You don't need a mallet, that's why Mazda put the weld nut on there. Once you have all the bolts out, take one of em, and you'll see a random nut welded onto the pan flange. Just use a ratchet to grinch a pan bolt into that nut and it will come right off. No prying or hammering.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

You don't need a mallet, that's why Mazda put the weld nut on there. Once you have all the bolts out, take one of em, and you'll see a random nut welded onto the pan flange. Just use a ratchet to grinch a pan bolt into that nut and it will come right off. No prying or hammering.

I forgot to say that I tried using that nut but it was too rusty - the threads just disintegrated.

I didn't use a mallet to do mine but I would have if I had thought to use one, the mallet was justanotherp5's idea. I carefully pried it off with a small pry bar, it worked but I think the mallet is safer (less chance of scratching the block).

 

[visiongt9506]

Do those awr pans sit lower than stock? Mines is starting to rust and thinking of gettin one but im ganna be also be installing bc coils soon and dont want the pan to be to low

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Do those awr pans sit lower than stock? Mines is starting to rust and thinking of gettin one but im ganna be also be installing bc coils soon and dont want the pan to be to low

My car is rediculously low and the oil pan has NEVER scraped

 

[Magus]

I have Yellowspeed Coil-overs installed with a one finger width between wheel well and tire. I have not had any problems with speed bumps nor when I miss judged a little hill and jumped the car! Understand when you install coil-overs you are giving up some ride quality. I think that is because the springs on the coil-overs are smaller than stock. If you want a slightly better than stock and do not want to give up ride quality, I would recommend Tokico illuminas struts with espelir springs. The problem I discovered with my coil-overs is the ride is jiggly when you are going freeway speeds. The key I found is you want the shocks to limit the bounce after a bump, but you do not want it too stiff or the springs are not used and you will wear out your shocks premature. The first thing I did was find the proper ratio front/rear for damping as stock was not working (4 ->8), then changed tire pressure (32 psi -> 38 psi), and finally damper settings (10 F 18 R). Though settings are from full stiff (1) up (full soft 33).

 

[JeeperDan]

I see that this thread is almost a year old, but if anyone has the torque specs on the oil pan bolts I would appreciate you posting them up. I am going to be changing out the oil pan on my son's 02 P5 tomorrow and I have not found the torque ratings yet. I have downloaded a service manual and have done many internet searches and still nothing.

Thanks, Dan

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I see that this thread is almost a year old, but if anyone has the torque specs on the oil pan bolts I would appreciate you posting them up. I am going to be changing out the oil pan on my son's 02 P5 tomorrow and I have not found the torque ratings yet. I have downloaded a service manual and have done many internet searches and still nothing.

Thanks, Dan

14-18 ft-lbs, it's on page 01-11-5 of the service manual.

 

[JeeperDan]

14-18 ft-lbs, it's on page 01-11-5 of the service manual.

Thank you. I was not reading the diagram correctly. The numbers you mention are not labeled with ft-lbs. They just give the 14-18.

So, thanks for the quick reply and helping me figure this out.

Dan

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Thank you. I was not reading the diagram correctly. The numbers you mention are not labeled with ft-lbs.

They are:

 

[wallabe]

Make sure you get the RTV sealant also. Would hate for you to put a new oil pan on and it starts leaking.

 

[JeeperDan]

Ordered a gasket with the oil pan and bought red rtv. Replacement went very well. Bolts came right out and the pan came off fairly easy. I was able to get it off and the new one on without taking the exhaust apart. (I did not want to open more cans of worms then I needed to.) The whole job took less than 4 hours. That includes set up, and clean up.

Thanks to all that helped me with info.

Dan

 

[rusted]

Hi JeeperDan,

My oil pan is rusted and needs replacing ... just wondering ... was it difficult at all to manuver the oil pan past the exhaust J pipe? Also, did you go with an aftermarket pan, or did you replace it with an OEM?

Thanks

 

[pcb]

Eye dunno::

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # MZP05A
Lower Part

CAD$47.03

DORMAN Part # 264021 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers}
Includes New Drain Plug and Seal (where required); Lower; w/MPS or Sport Suspension

CAD$50.32





FEL-PRO Part # OS30908C Set
Lower

CAD$3.04

VICTOR REINZ Part # OS32515 Material: Victo-Tech Or Cork


CAD$3.36

DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS Part # PG425
Set

CAD$4.26

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # GK176 Pans Gaskets


CAD$4.83

I had the wrong engine posted. Our oil pan is quite different. You guys were supposed to flame me for that !!!???

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Make sure you use the weld nut to get the pan off, and DO NOT pry it off. You can bend it and cause it to leak again. That's what the weld nut is for. Take one of the bolts and wrench it into the weld nut to push the pan off the block. You'll see exactly what I'm talking about once you're under there.

 

[Luken10]

For those of you who are talking about oil starvation, how hard do you have to drive your car for that to happen? I am going up to the mountains next weekend for the twisties and would hate to put my car in jeopardy.