Remote Start Woes

[cbuechlein]

When we bought our 2010 CX-9 last year the Mazda remote start was finicky. At first (and where it is now) it would only start with the smart key inside the vehicle (or at least touching the driver door glass). After looking through the trouble shoot portion of the manual, I did what step 7 said and I reprogrammed the immobilizer interface which did not fix it.

I then started poking at wiring and narrowed it down to the black and red wires from the ignition lock cylinder. Previously, if I wiggled the connector at the module, remote start would function normally for a couple days then stop working again. I could wiggle the connector and it would work again. I then pulled the module down from it's ziptied location and removed the black/red pigtail. I used a pick to snug up the pins a little and gave the module a visual inspection. I plugged the pigtail back in, put the module back and it worked fine for a couple days. Now I get nothing no matter how much I wiggle and move pieces.

My wife took it in to the dealer for control arm inspection and had them investigate the remote start. They came to the same conclusion it wouldn't start without having a smart key in the vehicle. They told her it may need a reprogram of the smart keys and remote start module and would need all the keys and fobs present to do that. My wife failed to call me so I could speak to them of what I had found out so I'm not certain where they were headed in diagnosis.

So my questions:

1. Can I reprogram the DNA card (I assume this is where the anti theft information for the remote start is stored) with my two smart keys fobs etc. myself or do they need to do it with the fancy Mazda scantool?

I am leading to the thought of a bad module or bad pigtail judging by my wiggle test so:
2. If I replace the module can I just swap in my DNA card and be good to go?
3. Or will something need to be programmed in the module?
4. I assume the module pushes out a voltage to the ribbon cable around the lock cylinder. I should be able to see something on a multimeter. Anybody know what voltage I need to be seeing? If I have a number I can look to where the voltage drops off at (if its getting through the connector or not).


Any answers to any of the questions would be a great help. Thank you in advance.

 

[kcbhiw]

It sounds like it's an antenna issue in regard to the DNA module. There are a few wraps of wire around the ignition cylinder that transmit the stored key code to the vehicle's immobilizer, essentially tricking the immobilizer to "think" a key was present. If this antenna wrap isn't installed properly, remote start won't work.

See step 9 on page 13 for more details: http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/cx9remotestartN02B.pdf

The biggest issue I have with the immobilizer is that they're typically installed with "vampire taps" that cut into the wire to make an electrical connection. These too can be problematic. When I installed the remote start system into my wife's CX9, I soldered all of the connections.

 

[cbuechlein]

It sounds like it's an antenna issue in regard to the DNA module. There are a few wraps of wire around the ignition cylinder that transmit the stored key code to the vehicle's immobilizer, essentially tricking the immobilizer to "think" a key was present. If this antenna wrap isn't installed properly, remote start won't work.

See step 9 on page 13 for more details: http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/cx9remotestartN02B.pdf

The biggest issue I have with the immobilizer is that they're typically installed with "vampire taps" that cut into the wire to make an electrical connection. These too can be problematic. When I installed the remote start system into my wife's CX9, I soldered all of the connections.

That so far is the only part I have not taken apart to investigate. Judging by my wiggle test at the module both before and after it was unmounted from the firewall, I assumed the issue was there, but I will take the column apart in the coming days. Thank you for your help.

 

[MyRxBad]

That so far is the only part I have not taken apart to investigate. Judging by my wiggle test at the module both before and after it was unmounted from the firewall, I assumed the issue was there, but I will take the column apart in the coming days. Thank you for your help.

Ya. I would double check all your connections at the steering column. I don't think it is the DNA module but you could check that you reprogrammed the immobilizer correctly that could be an issue

It sounds like it's an antenna issue in regard to the DNA module. There are a few wraps of wire around the ignition cylinder that transmit the stored key code to the vehicle's immobilizer, essentially tricking the immobilizer to "think" a key was present. If this antenna wrap isn't installed properly, remote start won't work.

See step 9 on page 13 for more details: http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/cx9remotestartN02B.pdf

The biggest issue I have with the immobilizer is that they're typically installed with "vampire taps" that cut into the wire to make an electrical connection. These too can be problematic. When I installed the remote start system into my wife's CX9, I soldered all of the connections.

When we bought our 2010 CX-9 last year the Mazda remote start was finicky. At first (and where it is now) it would only start with the smart key inside the vehicle (or at least touching the driver door glass). After looking through the trouble shoot portion of the manual, I did what step 7 said and I reprogrammed the immobilizer interface which did not fix it.

I then started poking at wiring and narrowed it down to the black and red wires from the ignition lock cylinder. Previously, if I wiggled the connector at the module, remote start would function normally for a couple days then stop working again. I could wiggle the connector and it would work again. I then pulled the module down from it's ziptied location and removed the black/red pigtail. I used a pick to snug up the pins a little and gave the module a visual inspection. I plugged the pigtail back in, put the module back and it worked fine for a couple days. Now I get nothing no matter how much I wiggle and move pieces.

My wife took it in to the dealer for control arm inspection and had them investigate the remote start. They came to the same conclusion it wouldn't start without having a smart key in the vehicle. They told her it may need a reprogram of the smart keys and remote start module and would need all the keys and fobs present to do that. My wife failed to call me so I could speak to them of what I had found out so I'm not certain where they were headed in diagnosis.

So my questions:

1. Can I reprogram the DNA card (I assume this is where the anti theft information for the remote start is stored) with my two smart keys fobs etc. myself or do they need to do it with the fancy Mazda scantool?

I am leading to the thought of a bad module or bad pigtail judging by my wiggle test so:
2. If I replace the module can I just swap in my DNA card and be good to go?
3. Or will something need to be programmed in the module?
4. I assume the module pushes out a voltage to the ribbon cable around the lock cylinder. I should be able to see something on a multimeter. Anybody know what voltage I need to be seeing? If I have a number I can look to where the voltage drops off at (if its getting through the connector or not).


Any answers to any of the questions would be a great help. Thank you in advance.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

 

[cbuechlein]

On a random bit, while visiting family in Nebraska the remote start started working. But only the first time it was starting for the day. I feel it has more to do with the module as it was colder there than it typically is where I am at. Once the interior warmed up, it would not remote start again.