relocating maf

i could be wrong and over thinking this but....

the stock iat is where the intake is... reading warmer air then if it where on the cold pipe.

IAT is used to calculate timing and from factory it was designed to read air not cooled by the IC

Wouldnt installing the IAT cold pipe advance the timing? Could be wrong but i thought a colder air reading would advance timing. Which could be good cause you might get some extra power but also could cause you to blow your motor too.
 
Yeah I made a hole in the cold pipe for it, my concern now is that it sounds like I have comp surge, I also made me cai into an sri, could it be that??
 
Um....you cut a whole in your cold pipe for the IAT sensor? That pipe is under pressure...I'm betting you have a boost leak
 
You think so, the car does feel better.. but I made a drill hole for that intake temp sensor I didn't want any codes or wierd idling.. but it sounds like somewhat of a turkey sound..
 
Maybe I'm reading this thread wrong, but if you guys are thinking that intake air temps and compressor surge are related, they are not. Compressor surge is not hesitation. It really isn't an issue with our turbo because we have a ball bearing turbo and they can handle the surge as opposed to journal bearing turbo's. The only reason I'm running a dual valve setup is because the turkey sound annoys me. As someone mentioned before, putting the IAT sensor in your cold pipe is not a good idea. It is meant to see the air that is untouched by the intercooler and was not meant to be put under pressure. Some claim that the same goes for the MAF sensor, but everyone (including myself) that has relocated it only see positive results.
 
I didn't put my IAT sensor in the cold pipe because the boost pressure would blow it right out. I have the slightest bit of compressor surge with just an SSQV setup but it's only some of the time and only above 8psi. I don't get it most of the time and since it isn't damaging anything and it's 1000x better than it was stock i'm going to leave it.
 
I'm sorry bro I never said to drill a hole in the cold pipe. I have a t coupler holding the ait. Sorry if you got a leak now. There's only about a 10 deg differnce from outside air to cold pipe air on my car. But my question was more about the surge and how to cure it..I've been thinking of putting a ristrictor valve on the bybass valve just to slow it down from opening and closeing hopefully smoothing out transitions
 
Good I got of box of random pipes and couplers just incase of thoughs situations.
 
I'm trying to figure out how to get rid of the comp surge, when I was running dual setup it wasn't doin it, and now that I relo maf its doing it..
 
not recomended pretty much need hard pipes so you could have the proper couplers in order to install correctly with out leak..but i suppose if you wanted to you could cut the plastic pipes but if you make a mistake no going back...
 
I'm trying to figure out how to get rid of the comp surge, when I was running dual setup it wasn't doin it, and now that I relo maf its doing it..

make sure your BOV has a dedicated line to it.

you want your wastegate and BOV to have there own lines to the intake manifold.

I had my BOV vac line tied into all my sensors and other stuff, once i gave the BOV its own dedicated line. It was louder, and went off with less pressure no turkey.

You could buy a vac distribution block that hooks up to your brake booster or just redo the vac lines.
 

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