OZCorolla_x
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- 2009 MAZDA2 NEO 1.5lt Auto 5Door JMODE10Y1901426XXX
DIY Inspect & Cleaning the 1.5lt ZY-VE VVTi Oil Screen/Filter
Neither myself nor Mazda247.com are responsible for your skills workmanship or errors.
Tools:
M10 1/4” Drive Ratchet with small extension - For Removal of the Accessories Belt Splash Guard
14mm OE Ring plus 12mm Offset Ring - Release Auto Tensioner
17mm Offset Ring - Initial stage of Removing the Idler Puller Nut, Final stage of Idler Pulley Nut reinstall
17mm OE Ring - Final stage of Removing the Idler Puller Nut, Initial stage of Idler Puller Nut reinstall
8mm Long Allen Key - Necessary Leverage to start the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap removal
8mm Std Allen Key - Noted the Aluminum A/C line limits the Long Allen Key usage so once cracked, use the Standard Length Allen Key for VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap removal.
Torque Wrench
8mm Allen Key to suit the Torque Wrench
Lint Free Shop Towel
Throttle Body Cleaner
Mechanics Jack
2 of 120 x 120 timber blocks or Car Stands
4 of house bricks or wheel chocks for both rear wheels
#########
Fig [1] Marked Up Extract from 1.5lt ZY-VE Parts Cat, VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap shown as accessible from the Timing Chain Cover but not clear exactly where it is located, looking under the bonnet the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap is not readily visible.
Looking thru:
MZR 1.5 Engine Workshop Manual 2010_05 P_N 9999–95–MZR–11 70Pgs
Fig [2] Pg18 01-10-4 shows you need to "remove the Idler Pulley" on the 1.5lt ZY-VE VVTi to gain access to the Oil Screen Plug/Cap location that retains the VVTi Oil Screen/Filter.
(Not a great idea Mazda/Ford, but at least it’s better than some other Mazda’s where it’s under a 10mm Allen Key Cap in the CamBearing Retainer so you have to remove the compete Cam Cover....or worse with some Toyota's eg 2ZRFE or 2ARFE where you have to remove the Cam Bearing Retainer to access the VVT Filter from the Underside of the Cam Bearing Retainer.)
Fig [3] Pg63 01-10-49 1.5lt ZY-VE VVT Oil Screen/Filter Detail. VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap requires an 8mm Allen Key
#########
Removing & Cleaning the 1.5lt ZY-VE VVTi Oil Screen/Filter
[1] Chock the Rear Wheels
[2] Use Mechanics Jack, Raise front of car & place front of car onto car stands (or place front tyres on 120 x 120 timber blocks)
[3] Undo 2 of M10’s & remove the Accessories Belt Splash Guard
Fig [4] Accessories Belt & Auto Tensioner with the Accessories Belt Splash Guard removed
[4] Combine the 14mm OE Ring & the 12mm Offset Ring for additional Leverage, Release the Accessories Belt “Auto Tensioner” & remove the Accessories Belt
Fig[5] Release Auto Tensioner & Remove the Accessories Belt
Fig[6] 14mm OE Plus 12mm Offset Ring Spanner for Additional Leverage.
Noted access to the 14mm Auto Tensioner Nut is limited & a rigid brake line that you could move is in the way making use of a socket & standard breaker bar difficult. You could also place a tube over the 14mm OE but the 12mm Offset Ring Spanner works well.
[5] Remove the Idler Pulley M17mm Nut - Initially use the 17mm Offset Ring then 17mm OE Ring as the chassis rail gets in the way as the nut moves across on the idler pulley spindle stud.
Fig[7] Idler Pulley to be removed 17mm Nut
[6] Remove the Idler Pulley & Rear Bush
Fig[8] Idler Pulley & Rear Bush Removed
[7] Use the 8mm Long Allen Key "to start to undo" the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap. Then use the 8mm Std Allen Key to remove the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap (noted the A/C Aluminium Tubing is in the way, thus use the Std Length Allen Key)
Fig[9] VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap requires an 8mm Allen Key that is revealed once the Idler Puller is Removed (Rear Bush of Idler Pulley Spindle is still in place)
[8] Before taking out the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap & VVTi Oil Screen, place some lint free shop towel below the Plug/Cap as some oil will come out when removing the Plug/Cap & VVTi Oil Screen. Once you have the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap & VVTi Oil Screen removed, place some of the lint free shop towel into the VVTi Oil Screen aperture.
Fig[10] VVTi Oil Screen Removed Before Cleaning, it looks ok at 180,000kms, as the vehicle has run Full Synth
Fig[11] VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap Aperture
[9] Clean the VVTi Oil Screen using Throttle Body Cleaner
Fig[12] VVTi Oil Screen Cleaned
[10] If the VVTi Oil Screen is undamaged you can reuse it. If not Replace it. (Suspect that at >250,000km the polymer VVTi Oil Screen Cage will be brittle & crack, the Corolla 1ZZFE's typically are brittle at >250,000km) for my MAZDA2 it was ok at 180,000kms for cleaning & reuse
[11] If the Aluminium crush washer is undamaged you can reuse it. If not Replace it.
[12] Using the 8mm Std Allen Key Reinstall the VVTi Oil Cap with the VVTi Oil Screen fitted, then retorque using a Torque Wrench fitted with 8mm Allen Key = 32Nm
[13] Reinstall the Idler Pulley M17mm Nut - Initially use the 17mm OE Ring to avoid the chassis rail then finish with 17mm Offset Ring
[14] Reinstall the Accessories Belt over all of the pulleys except the Crank Pulley. Double check the Belt is correctly aligned on the ribbed pulleys.
Fig[13] Accessories Belt Removal Pg619 from 2013 SUPPLEMENTARY MANUAL 1509Pgs = Not the same as Oz Cars
Fig[14] WRT Accessories Belt Routing = Its Better to Draw your own Complete Accessories Belt Routing Diagram for your car before you start.
[15] Using the Combined 14mm OE Ring & the 12mm Offset Ring for additional Leverage release the Auto Tensioner, then move the accessories belt over the Crank Pulley last
[16] Reinstall the Accessories Belt Splash Guard 2 of M10’s
##########
Will be interested if this helps with "the Staccato like ticking" on the first start of the day after siting overnight for 10Hrs or more.
##########
##########
Noting:
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...en-cold-36215/
Post#10
"
Re "Staccato like ticking only after the first start in the morning when I engage 1st gear & drive off. After a short distance this disappears"
For my Mazda2 1.5lt ZY-VE, interested in "the Staccato like ticking"
a) With mine, "the Staccato like ticking" occurs on the 1st Start of day only, after sitting over night say 10Hrs or more, its 12 DegC ambient at present, running 5W40 Full Synth. HOWEVER "The Staccato like ticking" does not appear to occur every start, just with/on the 1st Start of day.
b) After initial start at Idle the noise is not there.
c) On the 1st Start of day only, "The Staccato like ticking" commences once there is load on the engine as the car moves off from stopped eg Reversing out the driveway & up the small Incline of the camber of the Road. It is gone within a nominal 20-30 seconds.
I'll OBDII PID Log what temperature it seems to disappear at when I get a chance. Noted the "Blue Cold Car Warning Light in the Dash is ON" when the Staccato like ticking occurs.
For my 1.5lt ZY-VE the "Blue Cold Car Warning Light in the Dash" goes out when the "ECT PID" reaches 55 DegC, with a 12 to 20 Deg C Ambient this seems to typically take 1.2km to 1.5km distance with gentle driving up to 60 km/Hr.
"
Hope the above helps someone.
Rob
Neither myself nor Mazda247.com are responsible for your skills workmanship or errors.
Tools:
M10 1/4” Drive Ratchet with small extension - For Removal of the Accessories Belt Splash Guard
14mm OE Ring plus 12mm Offset Ring - Release Auto Tensioner
17mm Offset Ring - Initial stage of Removing the Idler Puller Nut, Final stage of Idler Pulley Nut reinstall
17mm OE Ring - Final stage of Removing the Idler Puller Nut, Initial stage of Idler Puller Nut reinstall
8mm Long Allen Key - Necessary Leverage to start the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap removal
8mm Std Allen Key - Noted the Aluminum A/C line limits the Long Allen Key usage so once cracked, use the Standard Length Allen Key for VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap removal.
Torque Wrench
8mm Allen Key to suit the Torque Wrench
Lint Free Shop Towel
Throttle Body Cleaner
Mechanics Jack
2 of 120 x 120 timber blocks or Car Stands
4 of house bricks or wheel chocks for both rear wheels
#########
Fig [1] Marked Up Extract from 1.5lt ZY-VE Parts Cat, VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap shown as accessible from the Timing Chain Cover but not clear exactly where it is located, looking under the bonnet the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap is not readily visible.
Looking thru:
MZR 1.5 Engine Workshop Manual 2010_05 P_N 9999–95–MZR–11 70Pgs
Fig [2] Pg18 01-10-4 shows you need to "remove the Idler Pulley" on the 1.5lt ZY-VE VVTi to gain access to the Oil Screen Plug/Cap location that retains the VVTi Oil Screen/Filter.
(Not a great idea Mazda/Ford, but at least it’s better than some other Mazda’s where it’s under a 10mm Allen Key Cap in the CamBearing Retainer so you have to remove the compete Cam Cover....or worse with some Toyota's eg 2ZRFE or 2ARFE where you have to remove the Cam Bearing Retainer to access the VVT Filter from the Underside of the Cam Bearing Retainer.)
Fig [3] Pg63 01-10-49 1.5lt ZY-VE VVT Oil Screen/Filter Detail. VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap requires an 8mm Allen Key
#########
Removing & Cleaning the 1.5lt ZY-VE VVTi Oil Screen/Filter
[1] Chock the Rear Wheels
[2] Use Mechanics Jack, Raise front of car & place front of car onto car stands (or place front tyres on 120 x 120 timber blocks)
[3] Undo 2 of M10’s & remove the Accessories Belt Splash Guard
Fig [4] Accessories Belt & Auto Tensioner with the Accessories Belt Splash Guard removed
[4] Combine the 14mm OE Ring & the 12mm Offset Ring for additional Leverage, Release the Accessories Belt “Auto Tensioner” & remove the Accessories Belt
Fig[5] Release Auto Tensioner & Remove the Accessories Belt
Fig[6] 14mm OE Plus 12mm Offset Ring Spanner for Additional Leverage.
Noted access to the 14mm Auto Tensioner Nut is limited & a rigid brake line that you could move is in the way making use of a socket & standard breaker bar difficult. You could also place a tube over the 14mm OE but the 12mm Offset Ring Spanner works well.
[5] Remove the Idler Pulley M17mm Nut - Initially use the 17mm Offset Ring then 17mm OE Ring as the chassis rail gets in the way as the nut moves across on the idler pulley spindle stud.
Fig[7] Idler Pulley to be removed 17mm Nut
[6] Remove the Idler Pulley & Rear Bush
Fig[8] Idler Pulley & Rear Bush Removed
[7] Use the 8mm Long Allen Key "to start to undo" the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap. Then use the 8mm Std Allen Key to remove the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap (noted the A/C Aluminium Tubing is in the way, thus use the Std Length Allen Key)
Fig[9] VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap requires an 8mm Allen Key that is revealed once the Idler Puller is Removed (Rear Bush of Idler Pulley Spindle is still in place)
[8] Before taking out the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap & VVTi Oil Screen, place some lint free shop towel below the Plug/Cap as some oil will come out when removing the Plug/Cap & VVTi Oil Screen. Once you have the VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap & VVTi Oil Screen removed, place some of the lint free shop towel into the VVTi Oil Screen aperture.
Fig[10] VVTi Oil Screen Removed Before Cleaning, it looks ok at 180,000kms, as the vehicle has run Full Synth
Fig[11] VVTi Oil Screen Plug/Cap Aperture
[9] Clean the VVTi Oil Screen using Throttle Body Cleaner
Fig[12] VVTi Oil Screen Cleaned
[10] If the VVTi Oil Screen is undamaged you can reuse it. If not Replace it. (Suspect that at >250,000km the polymer VVTi Oil Screen Cage will be brittle & crack, the Corolla 1ZZFE's typically are brittle at >250,000km) for my MAZDA2 it was ok at 180,000kms for cleaning & reuse
[11] If the Aluminium crush washer is undamaged you can reuse it. If not Replace it.
[12] Using the 8mm Std Allen Key Reinstall the VVTi Oil Cap with the VVTi Oil Screen fitted, then retorque using a Torque Wrench fitted with 8mm Allen Key = 32Nm
[13] Reinstall the Idler Pulley M17mm Nut - Initially use the 17mm OE Ring to avoid the chassis rail then finish with 17mm Offset Ring
[14] Reinstall the Accessories Belt over all of the pulleys except the Crank Pulley. Double check the Belt is correctly aligned on the ribbed pulleys.
Fig[13] Accessories Belt Removal Pg619 from 2013 SUPPLEMENTARY MANUAL 1509Pgs = Not the same as Oz Cars
Fig[14] WRT Accessories Belt Routing = Its Better to Draw your own Complete Accessories Belt Routing Diagram for your car before you start.
[15] Using the Combined 14mm OE Ring & the 12mm Offset Ring for additional Leverage release the Auto Tensioner, then move the accessories belt over the Crank Pulley last
[16] Reinstall the Accessories Belt Splash Guard 2 of M10’s
##########
Will be interested if this helps with "the Staccato like ticking" on the first start of the day after siting overnight for 10Hrs or more.
##########
##########
Noting:
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...en-cold-36215/
Post#10
"
Re "Staccato like ticking only after the first start in the morning when I engage 1st gear & drive off. After a short distance this disappears"
For my Mazda2 1.5lt ZY-VE, interested in "the Staccato like ticking"
a) With mine, "the Staccato like ticking" occurs on the 1st Start of day only, after sitting over night say 10Hrs or more, its 12 DegC ambient at present, running 5W40 Full Synth. HOWEVER "The Staccato like ticking" does not appear to occur every start, just with/on the 1st Start of day.
b) After initial start at Idle the noise is not there.
c) On the 1st Start of day only, "The Staccato like ticking" commences once there is load on the engine as the car moves off from stopped eg Reversing out the driveway & up the small Incline of the camber of the Road. It is gone within a nominal 20-30 seconds.
I'll OBDII PID Log what temperature it seems to disappear at when I get a chance. Noted the "Blue Cold Car Warning Light in the Dash is ON" when the Staccato like ticking occurs.
For my 1.5lt ZY-VE the "Blue Cold Car Warning Light in the Dash" goes out when the "ECT PID" reaches 55 DegC, with a 12 to 20 Deg C Ambient this seems to typically take 1.2km to 1.5km distance with gentle driving up to 60 km/Hr.
"
Hope the above helps someone.
Rob
Last edited:
