Reliability of Stock MSP

R6Rocket

Member
First off, yes I did a search on reliability of the Mazda Speed...

I know there have been problems with clunk and FLASHED vs. NON-FLASHED cars and a few coolant leaks, but what about general reliability of a STOCK car...

I could see problems coming up with moding the car but other than the annoyances listed above, has there been a big PROBLEM with the reliability of this car in stock form? Since I ride my R6 most of the time, I only put about 12K mi. on a car per year. Also, I won't be racing or going to any drag strips (I ride my bike on a race track and drag knees:D ). I'm sure the power falls off before red-line, so I doubt I'd run it much higher than 5K RPM...

Also, say you raised the boost on the car, 1. Do you have to buy an intake 2. If you put your boost back to stock and brought it to the dealer, is there anyway they could know that you raised the boost and potentially caused the problem (maybe the coloration of the spark plugs, an a/f ratio diagnostic light coming on, or anyother tell-tale signs)???

I'm probably going to test drive one in a week or so. I just can't afford to buy the car and have it consume even more time and money if it constantly has problems. I'll just suck it up and buy a regular ES....

Thanks for your comments...
 
Generally, it's a very reliable car.

And yes, power falls before redline.
 
Check reliability on proteges in general - pretty good. Also check cars which have the same turbocharger as ours, that's the only major part I'm worried about. The only other parts I'd worry about would be if the engine was over-boosted (over stock levels) or run really hard, or the reliability/hassle factor of the "aftermarket" parts (Racing Beat bushings front and rear, not-so-good stock rear swaybar mountings resulting in clunk, etc.). I'm planning on lots of miles and years out of this one... if I don't sell it first and go back to project VW's...
 
other then the hesitation and clunk this car is above average in reliablity. Unlike evo forums and wrx forums with their tranny failures.
 
Coolant leak is also another common problem. As far as engine reliability this car is above average.

I have had to go to the dealer or repair:

Hesitation
Clunk
Coolant Leak
Minor Exhaust Crack

General Nuisances:

Stereo Flipping out while in use
Some interior rattles (minor)
Rotor rust/hub rust
 
I've never had a problem w/ reliablility w/ previous Mazdas, and the turbo should outlast the engine if you change oil regularly, dont' race it or overboost, and allow the 30+ sec. cooldown. Good luck w/ your MSP purchase!
 
two speeds here in town....perfect. Hesitation no longer an issue. Clunk might now be fixed. I have had zero problems with my car otherwise.

You should know though that in cold temps the shocks will squeak, and front bushings might as well. This is just until she warms up but some see that as a pain in the ass problem.

Had my mp3 for two years, outside of the clunk....no issues at all.
 
I actually noticed that the power does not fall off as quickly as other cars. At 3000 of course it puts you in your seat because of the torque, but mine pulls pretty good even from 5000-6500.
 
hmmm

srry to threadjack but which other cars do have our same turbo just curious.....spanks :)
 
He also asked about if you raised the boost and set it back to normal could the dealer tell. I also was curious about this.
 
-You can't beat the reliability of the mazda protege, while the MSP hasn't been out long enough to really find all the problems they may encounter, I'm pretty confident there won't be many huge issues.

-It all depends on how you add boost, how much you add, and the problems you occur.

-If you overboost and hit fuel-cutoff there is a way to find out using the WDS,
-If you adjusted the wastegate rod, Mazda put special adhesive on the locknut that falls off when you change its position,
-If you added a mbc, there will be a broken/cut vacuum line,
-No you don't have to add an intake....

-I don't want to deter you from having fun with your MSP (I suggest you buy),just stating the facts.
 
actoually when they hook it up to the engin diagnostics..it will show max boost at what ever u set it to, even if u bring it to them at stock boost and have been runnin 8 or 9 lbs before...BYE BYE warranty....like in my case, when i was runnin at 10 psi, i shattered my differential trying to show off to some hot girls by dropping the clutch @ 4000 rpm's....haha yea it was 2000 dollars to fix and took 2 weeks to order the limited slip diff. all because of a little boost controller....all well, we gotta learn sometime....
 
haha like 2 seconds and then the engin just free reved all the way to red line. the funnything is.i first thought it was just the clutch that had burnt up, but when they were loading it onto the tow truck, it was making all kinds of rattling and clanking noises....
 
i dont think its just the reliability of the car but also the reliability of the deal you purchase it & and service it at
 
Damn this makes me not even want to get a mbc now....:( Would stronger engine mounts and proper tuning have helped him in the same situation?
 
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Re: Re: hmmm

JPBlackMP5 said:
The 95-99 Eclipse/Talon I believe.

the Mazdaspeed Protege uses a Garrett style T25. The Eclipse/Laser/Talon family utilize the Mitsubishi 14B. They are roughly similar in size and output.
 
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