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Rear Right Caliper siezed...AGAIN!
- Thread starter ARFF
- Start date
pureliquidhw
Member
- :
- 2003 Protege5
Maybe use ceramic pads? It could be the dust from whatever pads you are using.
yes this is now the second caliper which has siezed, i haven't touched the rear brakes myself. As far as the piston or the slide pins, I don't know, as this happened this morning at 0 dark thirty in the morning on my way to work. Foruntaely I was still close to home, so I limped her back and took the wife's car today
yes this is now the second caliper which has siezed, i haven't touched the rear brakes myself. As far as the piston or the slide pins, I don't know, as this happened this morning at 0 dark thirty in the morning on my way to work. Foruntaely I was still close to home, so I limped her back and took the wife's car today
Depending on where you took the car, maybe they didn't really replace the caliper and charged you for a new one - they could have just taken the old one, cleaned it up, and relubed everything. Not trying to say your shop is dishonest, but I'm looking at all possibilities.
I had the same problem but it happened on the front right side.
My front right side brakes seized and the shop informed me that it was due to a loose hub that cause the bearings to screw up and the brakes ended up seizing. Now my left hub is loose. Do any of you guys have problems with the under chasis?
My front right side brakes seized and the shop informed me that it was due to a loose hub that cause the bearings to screw up and the brakes ended up seizing. Now my left hub is loose. Do any of you guys have problems with the under chasis?
Not sure if it's the piston or the sliders that are seizing for you.
I found that the sliders needed to be cleaned and greased often on my P5. Used to do it spring and fall. Help keep the calipers working properly.
If it's the piston that's sticking, have you changed out the brake fluid? If not it may have a lot of water in it. If you are changing calipers then flush the brake fluid at all wheels, not just the one you are changing.
I found that the sliders needed to be cleaned and greased often on my P5. Used to do it spring and fall. Help keep the calipers working properly.
If it's the piston that's sticking, have you changed out the brake fluid? If not it may have a lot of water in it. If you are changing calipers then flush the brake fluid at all wheels, not just the one you are changing.
As was mentioned, there is the possibility that your caliper was never changed out in the first place... But definitely check the condition of the boots around your caliper piston, as well as the slider pins. If any of those has a hole, you could have a problem there.
Also, how is the e-brake cable adjusted? If its not even between the two sides, that can screw with things. When you had the caliper replaced, did they change the pads out too? On both sides?
A brake fluid flush couldnt hurt, do the whole system. How are your rear rotors?
Jiggah, there is a button at the top of the forum that says "New Thread" click on it and away you go!
Also, how is the e-brake cable adjusted? If its not even between the two sides, that can screw with things. When you had the caliper replaced, did they change the pads out too? On both sides?
A brake fluid flush couldnt hurt, do the whole system. How are your rear rotors?
Jiggah, there is a button at the top of the forum that says "New Thread" click on it and away you go!
Common problem on these cars,Piston seizes.
yes this is now the second caliper which has siezed, i haven't touched the rear brakes myself. As far as the piston or the slide pins, I don't know, as this happened this morning at 0 dark thirty in the morning on my way to work. Foruntaely I was still close to home, so I limped her back and took the wife's car today
yeah,, with lots of miles on our P5 the suspension seems to delicate.
We usually have about 2 bearing replaced a year. Recently we just had to have the hub and bearing replaced..never heard the bearing this time.
Sorry man, but if you're having to replace bearings twice per year, the person who is doing the replacing is definitely screwing something up (I really hope it's not you - can you say awkward...). There's no reason a wheel bearing shouldn't be able to go 100,000 miles without failure.
it's possible it's the parking brake cables are sized and not releasing, or the place is not adjusting the parking brake screw correctly.
I've got 200K on my p5 and only replaced one caliper and one hub bearing. The caliper was due to the dust cover being torn during a pad install. Bearing just wore out.
The rears I've had one caliper slide sieze, and the was fixed with sanding and a bunch of grease.
I've got 200K on my p5 and only replaced one caliper and one hub bearing. The caliper was due to the dust cover being torn during a pad install. Bearing just wore out.
The rears I've had one caliper slide sieze, and the was fixed with sanding and a bunch of grease.
Hey there, Ive had caliper seizing problems too in the past, Ive never lubed the slide pins myself but i want to start doing it to save money. Is it easy to do? I have done the slide pins on my dirt bike calipers I can't imagine its much harder, just bigger parts........
i actually just had my front right seize, they put on a rebuilt caliper alot cheaper then a new one..........but then 2 weeks later ive now got my left rear heating up and squealing......ugh so i want to do this maintenance myself.............
i actually just had my front right seize, they put on a rebuilt caliper alot cheaper then a new one..........but then 2 weeks later ive now got my left rear heating up and squealing......ugh so i want to do this maintenance myself.............
Before you replace those "Seized" calipers
You may in fact have seized calipers if your brake is smoking or just plain hot. But maybe not. Try this before paying a lot of money for a new caliper.
I had my fourth caliper in one year "seize" today (the LR brake was so hot you could feel the heat radiating from it when your hand was still 6" away from the wheel). But this time I tried something before installing a new caliper. You might try it too.
Back the piston off with about six full turns of the hex key. Unhook the e-brake and take the top caliper slide bolt out. This should allow the caliper to hinge up on the second slide bolt (you may have to undo the clips holding the brake line to get the caliper to swing free of the rotor). Lube both slide bolts (Advance sells small packs of brake lubricant for about $.69 ea. One pack will do one brake just fine).
Remove the brake pads and the m-clips. Here's one of the important parts:
Use brake cleaner and an old toothbrush to clean the channels in the m-clips. You should be able to see shiny metal by the time your done. Over time dust and junk builds up in these channels and can cause the pad to bind up and not retract when the brakes are released. If you drive in dusty conditions this can happen real fast). When you put everything back together, lube the channels in the m-clips.
Once everything is back together and the caliper is in place over the rotor, put a couple of the lug bolts on so the rotor is held tightly in place. Use the hex key to push the piston out. Stop tightening when you are unable to turn the rotor by hand and then back it off about 1/3rd of a turn.
Start the car and pump the brakes about 5 times then turn the engine off. Tighten the caliper again until you can't turn the rotor and back it off 1/3 turn. Repeat until it only takes 1/3 turn to tighten the piston so it stops the rotor. Remember to back it off 1/3 of a turn before putting the wheel back on. The rotor should turn by hand with a little drag from the brake pads.
I did this and drove 25 miles to an appointment on a combination of rural, suburban roads and the freeway at 65 mph. No hot brake on arrival. Drove back home and... no hot brake.
No telling if this is a "permanent" solution yet. I'll let you know after a week of commuting.
You may in fact have seized calipers if your brake is smoking or just plain hot. But maybe not. Try this before paying a lot of money for a new caliper.
I had my fourth caliper in one year "seize" today (the LR brake was so hot you could feel the heat radiating from it when your hand was still 6" away from the wheel). But this time I tried something before installing a new caliper. You might try it too.
Back the piston off with about six full turns of the hex key. Unhook the e-brake and take the top caliper slide bolt out. This should allow the caliper to hinge up on the second slide bolt (you may have to undo the clips holding the brake line to get the caliper to swing free of the rotor). Lube both slide bolts (Advance sells small packs of brake lubricant for about $.69 ea. One pack will do one brake just fine).
Remove the brake pads and the m-clips. Here's one of the important parts:
Use brake cleaner and an old toothbrush to clean the channels in the m-clips. You should be able to see shiny metal by the time your done. Over time dust and junk builds up in these channels and can cause the pad to bind up and not retract when the brakes are released. If you drive in dusty conditions this can happen real fast). When you put everything back together, lube the channels in the m-clips.
Once everything is back together and the caliper is in place over the rotor, put a couple of the lug bolts on so the rotor is held tightly in place. Use the hex key to push the piston out. Stop tightening when you are unable to turn the rotor by hand and then back it off about 1/3rd of a turn.
Start the car and pump the brakes about 5 times then turn the engine off. Tighten the caliper again until you can't turn the rotor and back it off 1/3 turn. Repeat until it only takes 1/3 turn to tighten the piston so it stops the rotor. Remember to back it off 1/3 of a turn before putting the wheel back on. The rotor should turn by hand with a little drag from the brake pads.
I did this and drove 25 miles to an appointment on a combination of rural, suburban roads and the freeway at 65 mph. No hot brake on arrival. Drove back home and... no hot brake.
No telling if this is a "permanent" solution yet. I'll let you know after a week of commuting.
No telling if this is a "permanent" solution yet. I'll let you know after a week of commuting.
One week later and no hot brake. Looks like it fixed it.
theswedishthing
Member
I just had the drivers side rear 'seize' on me today. I parked the car for a while cause it was getting real bad by the time I got where I was going, and then it was fine when I did two more city-driving stints on the way home. I'm a little sketched out about it though so tomorrow I'm gonna rip the wheel off and check it all out. I bought the car just a couple weeks ago from a dealer and after I called and had "chat" with him today, he's gonna change that caliper for me for free. I'm also gonna make sure he actually puts a new one on and doesn't just clean the old one...
As for the e-brake, is there any particular side that tends to seize on it (I'm just wondering if it could be that, rather than the actual caliper, because I left it off when I parked the car to cool, and then nothing seized during the next two drives..)
As for the e-brake, is there any particular side that tends to seize on it (I'm just wondering if it could be that, rather than the actual caliper, because I left it off when I parked the car to cool, and then nothing seized during the next two drives..)
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