For 2016.5 CX-5, the minimum rear disk rotor thickness is 8.0 mm; and the minimum rear disk pad thickness is 2.0 mm.I'll have to ask in the thickness of the rotors. They must have been referring to the pads that's a good point.
This isn’t true. The rear pads and rotors are the same whether or not you have the EPB or not. There’re rear OEM MV pads and rotors available.And they said they cannot use the value line because I have an e-brake.
It’s possible due to the much higher price on labor and parts at dealerships nowadays. $210.78 for rear brake job without new rotors by @wlong01‘s dealer is pretty good price.Other dealerships were higher by 100 or more. I know the one that gave me the quote for $509 said they do nothing with the brake fluid at all.
Yeh if you don’t have Brakes Plus near by, try to find an indy shop with good reputation and compare that is the way to go.I'm waiting to hear back from the guy who did my transmission flush. It's a bit of a drive to get to him though. Currently I'm vacation. Seems to know a lot of details about Mazdas. It's his own shop.
Dealer does warrant the pads for life though usually.
The dealer price used to be pretty consistence in the same area and we usually can expect how much higher the cost will be from a car dealership, But in recent years with everything is going up rapidly the car dealers are also charge the customers in wide range. @wlong01‘s Mazda dealer charged $210.78 just in April for rear brake job which is considered very reasonable in today’s market but you still can save a lot more if you can DIY as the labor cost now is pretty high.It's in line with what I would expect for dealer service, and your comparison pricing confirms it. I paid about the same for front brakes on another car recently, at a tire chain.
Yes people here usually suggest DIY to save a lot of money due to the high cost on labor in current environment. But we also understand many can’t or don’t want to DIY hence we also suggest possible alternatives such as Brakes Plus I recommended earlier.It seems like these types of questions always bring out "DIY" recommendations, and that is obviously a way to save a lot on the service, but not for everyone. Unless you know someone working side jobs or with a very low overhead business model, you'll have to pay what your local market demands.
Good question. Here in Pa we have an annual state inspection for vehicles. I'm betting they get replaced when they're down to the state wear limit, 2/32.Does this mean they will pad slap vehicle as needed for as long as you own the vehicle?
or they would just be replaced if pads had a factory defect years out but were still within the serviceable "mm" range?
My 2018 Toyota Yaris iA with CA license plate hasn’t done any “annual” state emission inspection since I bought it in 2019. I’ve been told I’ll receive an inspection notice when it’s needed but so far I haven’t.I live in one of the 13 remaining states that don't require annuals inspections.. WA state even did away with emission inspections back in 2020
- Alaska
- Arkansas
- Iowa
- Michigan
- Minnesota
- Mississippi
- Montana
- North Dakota
- South Carolina
- South Dakota
- Florida
- Washington
- Wyoming
What States Require Vehicle Safety Inspections
Vehicle safety inspections vary by state and typically include checks on brakes, lights, tires, and exhaust systems to ensure vehicles are safe for public roads.goodcar.com
I should probably end there as this is going off the thread rails
Ya, I just missed a 10% off that had expired a couple of weeks ago at the dealership.It's pretty much the norm from dealers. Reasonable? I don't think most dealers quote reasonable prices unless there's some kind of coupon. Dealer does warrant the pads for life though usually.
Yeah, not meaning to get off topic, but state inspection is, IMO, a good idea. Lots of folks are glad they don't need to, but it'd be no picnic if the guy next to you on the highway suddenly had his ball joints let loose or the guy behind you suddenly lost his brakes. Not a good idea going years without the safety systems on the car looked at as quite a few people would end up doing. Seems like a topic for a new thread. They're thinking of doing away with it in this state.I live in one of the 13 remaining states that don't require annuals inspections.. WA state even did away with emission inspections back in 2020
- Alaska
- Arkansas
- Iowa
- Michigan
- Minnesota
- Mississippi
- Montana
- North Dakota
- South Carolina
- South Dakota
- Florida
- Washington
- Wyoming
What States Require Vehicle Safety Inspections
Vehicle safety inspections vary by state and typically include checks on brakes, lights, tires, and exhaust systems to ensure vehicles are safe for public roads.goodcar.com
I should probably end there as this is going off the thread rails
How will they make up the lost revenue?Yeah, not meaning to get off topic, but state inspection is, IMO, a good idea. Lots of folks are glad they don't need to, but it'd be no picnic if the guy next to you on the highway suddenly had his ball joints let loose or the guy behind you suddenly lost his brakes. Not a good idea going years without the safety systems on the car looked at as quite a few people would end up doing. Seems like a topic for a new thread. They're thinking of doing away with it in this state.
Annual state inspection may be a good idea on paper, but those who wants to skip the inspection can always overcome it with fake annual inspection window sticker. One time the TV news reported that after checked many window inspection sticker in south Dallas parking lot, more than 60% were fake. That’s why the State eliminated the inspection sticker and use solely the annual registration sticker. But that can be faked too.Yeah, not meaning to get off topic, but state inspection is, IMO, a good idea. Lots of folks are glad they don't need to, but it'd be no picnic if the guy next to you on the highway suddenly had his ball joints let loose or the guy behind you suddenly lost his brakes. Not a good idea going years without the safety systems on the car looked at as quite a few people would end up doing. Seems like a topic for a new thread. They're thinking of doing away with it in this state.
The way they always do, raise taxes on something. It's going to be more of a hit to the garages that perform this.How will they make up the lost revenue?
We disengage the parking brake to perform the work, remove the calipers, pads, caliper brackets and rotors. With grind down any oxidation that has built up on the wheel hub or caliper brackets and apply a thin coat of fluid film or caliper grease to prevent it in the future. New hardware on caliper brackets. New grease for caliper slide pins. Install new rotors. Reinstall bracket. New pads. Apply grease to back of pads to help prevent vibration(noise). Reinstall caliper. Adjust parking brake motor. Torque wheels. Test drive. Verify parking brake. Bed pads. Re-torque wheels.
Even cheaper is this https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)Here was my DIY parts prices, along with a $20 container of new brake fluid and likely $75 for the Motive bleeder & adapter
2015 CX-5 OEM pad/rotor/hardware (MazdaSwag) and brake fluid flush
Gathering the parts… I’m fine with performance of OEM hardware and going to do a flush with my Motiv brake bleeder Local dealers wanted $100 or so more than this on parts. If others get OEM parts cheaper let everyone know. I purchased through Mazdaswag https://www.mazdaswag.com/ I was...mazdas247.com
This was my front and rear pads, rotors, and hardware and not value line
I know this is off topic, but I'd like to hear more about it. I know exactly what you mean. It's hard to even get an HVAC tech to actually diagnose and repair simple problems with an existing install when they just want to sell a new system. PM?I installed a mini-split last summer and ended up buying a vacuum pump, digital torque wrench, and various other specialized stuff. HVAC guys make much more money doing the complete installation and I couldn't find anybody to do the finish stuff.
If you pay $150 for an oil change and inspections for periodic maintenance, then this price for brakes is probably fine.I'll have to ask in the thickness of the rotors. They must have been referring to the pads that's a good point. And they said they cannot use the value line because I have an e-brake. Other dealerships were higher by 100 or more. I know the one that gave me the quote for $509 said they do nothing with the brake fluid at all.
I'm waiting to hear back from the guy who did my transmission flush. It's a bit of a drive to get to him though. Currently I'm vacation. Seems to know a lot of details about Mazdas. It's his own shop.