R.I.P. Mazda5 Transmission: b. 2010 - d. 2012

jandyp

Member
:
2010 Mazda5 Touring
This past Saturday, out of the blue, we parked our 2010 Mazda 5 Touring in our garage. After we put it in park, it rolled backwards. From then on, it rolled when in park, and we had to set the emergency brake while in park just to keep the vehicle from moving.

We got it into the dealer today, and they said it needs a whole new transmission and that they had never seen anything like it. Said that there were metal shavings in the transmission. On an unrelated note, it is also getting a new CD changer, as that hadn't been working for about a year.

Fortunately, everything is still under warranty, but I can't believe my original transmission only lasted for two years. Has anyone else out there had a similar experience? Hopefully, after they put in the new transmission it will be as good as new, but now I'm worried about future issues.
 
It's fairly common. I wish I could say I was surprised. I'm out of warranty so I can look forward to a shock, fix, and dump.
 
It's fairly common. I wish I could say I was surprised. I'm out of warranty so I can look forward to a shock, fix, and dump.

It's really a shame because I like the 5 a lot. There's nothing else out there like it. But now I'm thinking about trading it in before the warranty expires on Dec. 2013 out of fear of a lack of reliability. I'd rather keep it for another 5-6 years, but I don't want to be in for a lot of repairs and out of a lot of $$$ after warranty...
 
I will say, though, that I have had zero hassle from the dealer or from Mazda, and I'm really glad that they are at least standing behind their warranty. I've had good service thus far. That's good news and does make me feel better, even though I'm now going to look at my 5 with a skeptical eye...
 
I will say, though, that I have had zero hassle from the dealer or from Mazda, and I'm really glad that they are at least standing behind their warranty. I've had good service thus far. That's good news and does make me feel better, even though I'm now going to look at my 5 with a skeptical eye...

Well, you can be proactive and change your tranny fluid when it loses it's pink color. Normally, I would never make a recommendation regarding auto fluids based on color, but after countless conversations on this topic, I think it's about all you can do and sleep well. I'm using Redline fluid andmitmseems to be holding up well, but there are others. Just try to use a synthetic, or use the Mazda M-V and change it frequently.
 
Well, you can be proactive and change your tranny fluid when it loses it's pink color. Normally, I would never make a recommendation regarding auto fluids based on color, but after countless conversations on this topic, I think it's about all you can do and sleep well. I'm using Redline fluid andmitmseems to be holding up well, but there are others. Just try to use a synthetic, or use the Mazda M-V and change it frequently.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will keep an eye on the fluid and try Redline.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I will keep an eye on the fluid and try Redline.

Redline is mail order only for most people, and it's expensive. You can dig around here on the 3 and 5 forums, as well as search at bitog.com, to find results people have posted on other fluids.

Now that I've been running Redline for a few months, i still think the Mazda M-V performs better from the perspective of a car occupant. It does however burn up quickly and need to be changed, so I'm not so sure from the transmission's perspective that it's performing better.
 
This past Saturday, out of the blue, we parked our 2010 Mazda 5 Touring in our garage. After we put it in park, it rolled backwards. From then on, it rolled when in park, and we had to set the emergency brake while in park just to keep the vehicle from moving...
Out of curiosity, have you towed anything with your Mazda5, or has it been towed?
 
While I don't expect Mazda's automatic transmissions to last as long as Toyota's, I think you have an exceptional case. I know Mazda 3s with close to 200k km and still running strong on their original automatic transmission.

On a separate note, is it common for automatic drivers not to set the parking brake? It doesn't feel right to me, I always set it. Just like how I would never leave a manual transmission in neutral when I park.
 
I read somewhere about an additive to the transmission fluid for our type. Can someone confirm this. My 5 has only close to 12 000 mi. (20 000 kms). So I might want to go that way to prolong its life
 
@OP; does/did your transmission otherwise function properly? If the only thing that is going on is that it won't hold park, it sounds like the parking pawl has failed. I think that it is not a common failure part.
Does the car get shifted into park before coming to a complete stop? Did it get towed or moved around while in park?

At any rate, I wouldn't consider this a typical transmission failure from normal wear and tear.

@bDKaz; I rarely use the parking brake on any auto vehicle that I've driven.

@mwcbu08; There's an additive called Lubegard. I've heard great things about it. I used it and mistakenly thought it 'fixed' my transmission issues. It did feel like it shifted better, but in my case my transmission issue was a sensor & NO additive could fix that.
 
Always set your parking brake before releasing your brake pedal no matter manual or auto trans. If you don't, you will put stress in transmission by letting it carry the entire weight of the vehicle. Why do you think all vehicles come with it no matter whether they're manual or auto trans.
 
@OP; does/did your transmission otherwise function properly? If the only thing that is going on is that it won't hold park, it sounds like the parking pawl has failed. I think that it is not a common failure part.
Does the car get shifted into park before coming to a complete stop? Did it get towed or moved around while in park?

At any rate, I wouldn't consider this a typical transmission failure from normal wear and tear.

Yes, the transmission functioned properly otherwise. It may have been the parking pawl. From everything the dealer is telling me, this is not a common failure. I think it is a fairly freakish thing. They have been on the phone with field engineers from Japan. The new transmission came today direct from Mazda. I'm stuck with a rental (but paid by Mazda) through Wednesday.

My 5 was never shifted into park before coming to a complete stop, and it's never been towed or moved around in park, as far as I know.
 
I'm concerned about the lack of fluidity of the tranny when decelerating. During slow deceleraton at slower speeds, the transmission seems to log the engine because of hanging on a higher gear.
 
Update

Got it back today. Between the new tranny and new CD changer, approximately $2500 of warranty work was done on my 2010 Mazda5. They said that the transmission fluid was fine--the parking pawl just broke for no explainable reason. They are shipping the old tranny back to Hiroshima for an autopsy. Ironically, as I got in my car at the dealer, it wouldn't start. Evidently they had drained the battery by leaving the doors open or something. I've lost confidence in the vehicle, but I'm going to take it day by day, as I do ultimately like the car, do not want to spend $ on a newer vehicle, and there are few alternatives that give me what the 5 offers (sliding doors, relatively good mpg, family hauler with decent cargo space). We will see what happens. I will certainly post back if I have any issues with the new tranny or any issues with the vehicle in general.
 
I think that losing faith because of a dead battery is a little unfair. The only thing to really get worked up about is the fluke transmission failure, and it sounds like they took care of that for you. Used cars are always a gamble, and the battery is something so minute anyways. If it was the original battery, it was already on its way out. Couple it's age with the [presumably] cold weather and the dealership's gaffe of draining it with the doors open and viola, the battery is toast.

Now if the new transmission mysteriously fails, then you have grounds to loose faith.
 
It's not the battery

I think that losing faith because of a dead battery is a little unfair. The only thing to really get worked up about is the fluke transmission failure, and it sounds like they took care of that for you. Used cars are always a gamble, and the battery is something so minute anyways. If it was the original battery, it was already on its way out. Couple it's age with the [presumably] cold weather and the dealership's gaffe of draining it with the doors open and viola, the battery is toast.

Now if the new transmission mysteriously fails, then you have grounds to loose faith.

I hear you. It's more the accumulation of things. I bought the vehicle new, not used, by the way.

Here's my latest update, folks. It's not the battery. I replaced the battery myself today, thinking the same thing as the_saint that it was probably on its way out. I am 100% sure that it is connected and done correctly. Replaced it with an Autocraft Gold battery from Advance Auto with a 7 yr warranty. It doesn't start. Just as with the old battery, it doesn't make a sound. The interior lights go on (so I have power), but various panel lights (yellow check engine light, battery light, AT light, etc) are on.

Battery replacement is the extent of my very limited automotive knowledge and abilities. Any ideas? Is it the starter? It's going back to the dealer (provided that I can jump start it) tomorrow...I've spent my holidays worrying about this crap.
 
Check the car's fusible link. I don't know exactly where it is on the Mazda5 but did a quick google for a Mazda3. Look at the battery's positive terminal and you should see a brown plastic contraption near the positive (+) terminal. See if that is toast. Mazda uses a "built-in" fusible link on the cable. Mazda deems this a non-serviceable part and you have to buy the whole wiring harness (>$500) to replace it but that's malarkey IMO. You can splice in your own. Since you are under warranty, just let them deal with it. If it is a blown wire, then this is due to human error...
 
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Check the car's fusible link. I don't know exactly where it is on the Mazda5 but did a quick google for a Mazda3. Look at the battery's positive terminal and you should see a brown plastic contraption near the positive (+) terminal. See if that is toast. Mazda uses a "built-in" fusible link on the cable. Mazda deems this a non-serviceable part and you have to buy the whole wiring harness (>$500) to replace it but that's malarkey IMO. You can splice in your own. Since you are under warranty, just let them deal with it. If it is a blown wire, then this is due to human error...

An auto electric shop or one where they just rebuild starters and alternators can do it. I paid like $10 for a new one to be spliced in on my F150 when I idiotically fried it putting my battery in backwards. Most foolish thing I ever did on a car.
 

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