Protege5 ultimate mod

Thanks everyone for your support, I am glad this thread turned into positive direction.

It took a little parenting, but..... ;)


That's actually a lot less weight than I imagine it would have added. Just curious, why so much junk in the trunk? Is that where the batteries are or....?
 
Yes, I have 40 individual cells connected in series to make a battery pack of 128 Volts. Each cell weighs 12Lb, and I put 8 of them under the hood and 32 of them in the trunk. 20 rear cells are sunk in the spare tire well and 12 lined up behind the rear seat, which still leaves plenty of cargo room. Total rear batery weight is 384 Lb, but removal of gas tank, spare tire and muffler balanced it out to about 300Lb extra compared to OEM.

In the front, 96lb of batteries, 120lb of motor and few pounds of wiring and small stuff pretty much balanced out all the ICE crap that I removed.
 
maybe get some spinner wheels, and attached a generator to them to power you acc while at a stop!
 
Regen is very overhyped, on flat roads in Florida I will not get more than 1-2% of energy back, so its not worth the hassle of additional design and parts involved. Plus, I have a DC motor, which does not easily regen.

Since I have an automatic tranny I actually idle my electric motor to maintain pressure for smooth shifting, which also allows me to run original AC and PS pumps. Energy losses for idle are very small, no more than 2%, so it doesn't bother me.
 
still... a 3000lb car traveling at 50 mph has a lot of kinetic energy to harness.

still very cool! hope everything works out! it should be a reliable system. think about all the little moving parts in an ICE.
 
DC motor that I use has limited useful RPM range, 0-4000 RPM. Its not practical to use direct drive with DC motors since final gear ratio selection will either cut off top speed or create huge currents at low speed, so 2-3 gears are still required for DC conversion.

AC motors like the one in Telsa have 0-12000 RPM range, so with proper final gear ratio you can get away with single gear, but these motors are much more expensive, I could not afford that setup.
 
DC motor that I use has limited useful RPM range, 0-4000 RPM. Its not practical to use direct drive with DC motors since final gear ratio selection will either cut off top speed or create huge currents at low speed, so 2-3 gears are still required for DC conversion.

AC motors like the one in Telsa have 0-12000 RPM range, so with proper final gear ratio you can get away with single gear, but these motors are much more expensive, I could not afford that setup.

Ok that makes prefect sense!! How hard was it to mount up to the tranny?
 
Ok that makes prefect sense!! How hard was it to mount up to the tranny?

That was not as difficult as I originally thought, but still it was the hardest part of the project. I cut out 2 plates from half inch aluminum, one for motor and one for tranny, then I had to perfectly center these 2 plates and bolt them together. 2 plates allow for 1 inch space that I needed for shaft coupler to mate with drive plate. I had to shorten the motor shaft to fit into tight space, but it worked out very well.

It would be better to order a professional CNC job for this part, but it would cost too much, so I did it using regular power tools, took entire weekend just to make those aluminum plates...
 
Wow thats pretty ballsy!! Still great work with that.

Once the price of Ac's come down how hard would it be to swap over so you lose the power loss in the tranny?

Oh and are there any heat issues with the motor? Does it run more effectively when cooler?
 
nice ride man! it is an ultimate mod for shua!


It took a little parenting, but..... ;)


That's actually a lot less weight than I imagine it would have added. Just curious, why so much junk in the trunk? Is that where the batteries are or....?
haha....parenting!!
 
Since you're into the FI thing, you could put an electric supah-cha'gah' on it for him :D

Is there a way to add a turbo to an EV ? How about nitris? (blowup)

And the rear 300 lbs is like adding 2 12'' subs and amp. . . So when are you going to add 2 12'' subs?
 
DC motor is air cooled, as long as I have it within operating temp range, less than 250F, it runs just as good as at -20F, it doesn't care up until the point of melting or burning insulation :eek:

I am not worried since I attached OEM temp gauge to it and it doesn't go over 120F even on longest runs.

As for supercharging, funny you ask, some EV racing people attach supercapacitors close to the controller, so when you floor it from dead stop energy spike comes from the cap and spares the battery, it only stores a fraction of a second worth of power, but it can help get even more torque at the start line :eek:

I am not spending another dollar on this EV, so I won't be adding anything or swapping motors, etc.

All I am doing for next few years is (drive2)
 
All I am doing for next few years is (drive2)
Wait, the emoticon thing is shifting, so you have sportronic auto slapstick? lol. You need a hybrid badge off a tribute, the one with the green leaf. No, forget that, the EV one from a cough cough, civic. Nah, skip'em both.
 
yeah, you might want a high voltage sticker somewhere!

hehe, reminds me of this, that Barry made and is under the hood of the race car
img1588.jpg


img1589.jpg
 
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