Protege 5 rust

what, they said they wouldnt cover it. They would only cover rust through...i guess my deal doesnt know that this is a common issue!
 

Attachments

  • DSC00319.webp
    DSC00319.webp
    72.7 KB · Views: 600
yeah, i went, told them the problem... they didn't even look at the car, they just booked the repair date...
 
That's in Canada, though...Do you think it would apply to North American dealerships? I guess I'll have to try and find out for myself as I have surface bubbling rust on the inside of one of my rear wheel wells and at the bottom of the drivers door.
 
Mine's also going into the body shop to get the pass side rear wheel well fixed up from the rust that's forming there, it's also on the pass rear door, kind of a piss off, but thank god the rust warranty will cover it.
 
Rust free.

We don't salt the roads when it snows. We use cinders which is basically crushed lava rock and sand. Does wonders for paint and windshields but leaves us rust free. My 1950 Chevy truck is also rust free.
 
i have a little smudge of it in the crack for my hatch, and there is a paint chip just above the driverside headlight that ill need to attend to soonish since im afraid it will start to rust out. cant find a touchup for my color though, and i dunno how close ford colors are.

otherwise, she good. undercoated and the paint is coated. of course, my stock rims are starting to chip... found a nice big chip out of my passenger side front. T_T
 
Most of my rust is underneath on the exhaust and whatnot do to road salt. My paint is 99% rust free though. I do have one spot forming over the rear passenger wheel well on the outside lip. I have some chips on my hood too but I seal them with clear nailpolish and I haven't had any rust form there for the two years I've had her. Fixing all that this spring/summer though.

I rinse mine as much as possible through the winter tho with just hot water. Bubbles come in the summer.
 
im convinced I got the biggest lemon of them all

big rust spot with a 1.5 inch diameter on the tip of the hood near the headlight.

bottom corner (reaching furthest away from car when door is opened) of both doors, driver side is worse.

my trunks water holes are all rustied up...

bubbling on the trunk around some letters from logos (the trunk was stripped and repainted under warranty 2 years after I had it) The gas springs on the trunk rusted up and were replaced.

rust on the sun roof

the oil pan needs changing ASAP (thats what happens when you dont get your brand new car sprayed in Canada)

the "L" pipe on the exhaust rusted and broke off. replaced that too after 5 years.

i'll keep everyone posted on the rust watch

245 kms and counting!!!
 
you live in hawaii, you better not have any rust!

come on boston, you should know about sea (salt) mist. quite often worse rust since its up in the roof pillars and such...

my p5 has the rear wheel well lip rust breaking out now. Sunlight silver. Also any place there is a paint chip it starts rusting. Odd my '82 626 never rusted at the paint chips, bare metal, or anywhere for that mater. Must have used higher quality steel back then. (shrug)
 
also the fog lights can be a PITA. I just talked about that in another thread.
on the screw heads for the fog lights. They are not fun to take apart when a bulb goes out if the screw head disintegrates and the aluminum pot metal has corroded around the screw.
 
I said it once so I'll say it again. Get some electronic rust proofing. The sh1t works. It will prevent the rust from spreading for those of u that already have rust. And it will prevent rust from forming for those of u who don't. I suggest getting ur rust shaved off filled and painted then "GET ELECTRONIC RUST PROOFING" yes its quite expensive but so is repeatedly fixing rust damage.

Problem solved.
 
Last edited:
i live in austria, and i don't have any serious rust, at least i think so. fortunately, they don't use salt in winter, as it makes the trees "sick".

the only rust is a really really tiny one on that pillar on the right rear door window (don't know how to name that thing...), and some rust on the radiator stays and engine mounts.
 
Electronic rust proofing is not worth the money in all honesty especially for older cars. On newer cars it's more logical because the paint jobs are much better with the paint inbetween the panel seems etc but even then it's still not worth it. Does it slow rust down, when it's active yes, does it prevent rust no.

The electronic rust based system only works if you have a complete circuit and with a car there is no constant to complete the circuit. Now if you could manage to get one, you'd likely go through more batteries in one year than you would in the cars lifetime because to get a charge big enough to cover your car, you'd be draining your battery left and right.

In theory this is a very good idea but until they perfect it, it's really not economical.
 
not sure what your talking about. Electronic rust proofing has been perfected for over 20years now. It was originaly developed for ships/boats and is proven to work. Expensive yes but not as expensive as fixing rust. Prevents rust "yes" prevents rust from spreading "yes" complete the circuit? How do u think the sh1t works. Its very simple two wires complete the circuit.
Btw u ever heard of google or wikipedia.
 
Back