Here is the same TSB# from a different source:
View attachment Masda AC TSB Flickering Light.pdf View attachment Masda AC TSB Flickering Light (2).pdf
I had to print, scan then upload so I could get it all on one page.
It says the same thing as previously posted.
What I realized during the repair is that My Car Doesn't Fall into the category of the TSB!
The TSB States that Applicable Models Are: Vehicles built prior to
12/02/02 AND with VINs lower than
JM1BJ23150990
Mine is an 2002; However, the VIN does not coordinate. So I started to look a little deeper and first discovered that the switch is working as designed(part No. 61-200 in the above diagram).
As I was taking things apart looking for a culprit, It was then I discovered the Switch wire harness to be failing. The white plastic connector has melted and cracked. The Black Ground Wire has signs of overheating (the wire insulating sheath had melted back and exposed some of the copper strands. I could see that a few of the copper strands had broken and was not making good contact. I also found that with KOER, with A/C switch in Position #2 it would stay on for about 7-10 seconds at which point the wires in the harness would overheat immensely, at that point the A/C light would turn off and subsequently cause , as we all know, the a/c to stop working. Why does it overheat?!
High Resistance ?
Well, someone at Mazda figured out that the Heater Control Unit has a design flaw and they sought to replace the part with an updated or superseded version.
The Forum members fix that adding resistors to the circuit is a well thought out remedy, as is the other previous remedies. However, in my case, the before the resistor remedy can be executed, any damaged circuits had to first be repaired. Which I did by soldering in a new harness and 6 inch pigtail.(I did notice that the harness I cut out of the doner vehicle at the junkyard, was different. Two of the wires were a different color , and slightly different gauge. - I wish now that I had taken photos of the install so as to compare the two.)
The bad part of all of this is that I don't believe that I permanently fixed my problem. The wires still seem to get hot. So it's only a matter of time before this happens again. UNLESS I solder in the "Resistor Fix" before another failure occurs. Which I think Is a good idea so I can test whether or not it will resolve it once and for all.