Passenger (#3)/Rear (#1)/Transmission (#4) Motor Mount Experience/Recommendations

[Silentnoise713]

There seem to be quite a bit of motor mount threads popping up lately and this is not a surprise. The motor mounts on our cars are notorious for early failure (same with Focus and Mazda3). If yours hasn’t failed already it will, especially for ’06-’10 owners as years/mileage rack up.

My engine rattle has gotten worst and now causes a phantom rattle inside of the dash. Haven’t looked in detail but I suspect my PMM is shot and suspect the TMM might be too. As I am shopping or replacements mounts, I figure we can put our collective experiences into one thread.

AFAIK, the OEM PMM is liquid filled rubber and is the first to go. Not 100% sure about the other two but I don’t believe they are liquid filled (someone correct this). Liquid fill has the advantage of isolating vibration but since it “is” hallow, it is more prone to failure since the outer rubber will eventually dry -> crack -> fail. If your ultimate goal is smooth/silent ride, go OEM but anticipate maintenance. Aftermarket solid rubber will last longer BUT it will translate a slight increase in vibrations. However, the benefit of having a stiff-er mount is less wheel hop: double edge sword. Unless you race the Mz5 or really like vibrations of a connected car, I honestly would not recommend anyone to even consider polyurethane motor mounts. IF you do, then you should be making your own anyhow. You can get them in various and lower duro rating for more comfort but then why pay a premium for the end results of rubber?




That said let us know your experience.
How many miles/years did the OE last for you?
What did you replace it with?
How many times have you had to replace it?
Your feedback/recommendations?


In case anyone is wondering, here’s my narrowed down list. I was considering AWR but they are a bit pricy. I’ve read that the PMM and RMM contribute to vibrations the most so choose wisely.
PMM – Roca (solid rubber)
RMM – Upgraded Focus ST OEM (solid rubber)
TMM – Undecided but leaning towards OEM. Have not found any acceptable aftermarket option.

 

[Silentnoise713]

PIC Request!!!

We have few members who own both a 1st gen and 2nd gen (mix and match Mz3/Mz5 is ok). Could you to take a picture of the PMM from both cars? Ideally take some simple ruler measurements of the mounts holes to see if they are roughly the same distance. I ask b/c while they look different, I suspect they should have the same fitment. I may be totally wrong but I believe the 2.5L MZR is just bored out 2.3 MZR (+ internal changes/upgrades but thats not relevant). Point being the exterior ports/mounts on the bottom end should be the same. IF they are interchangeable (big IF), then I would suggest pursuing 2nd gen mounts over the 1st gen. #1 it cost LESS (again, I cant understand how/why) and #2 from my experience with mixing parts the new parts tend to be better. Based on pics, the RMM look identical but 1st gen again cost more, almost double WTF?!. The TMM looks totally different but some mount looks similar enough. While the 2nd gen was introduce with the 6spd, the 5spd auto box should (again big IF) be the same.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Hmmm, 94 views and no input? So no one else had problems?


May I ask a 2nd gen'er to just take some close up pics of your Passenger Motor Mount? I would consider the using OEM mount if it works. The Roca cost just as much as OE so i'm a bit torn but only if the new ones fit.

 

[Secondtyme]

I need to replace all three of mine, as the vibrations at idle are getting out of hand. I am hoping to replace with OE stuff, although upgraded OE (Focus ST?) would be nice. I think I would rather be boiled in oil than subject myself to poly engine mounts...I would be most interested in hearing from the DIYers who have already done this, mostly to learn if it is a "jack-up motor and replace" or if I am in for a marathon wrench-fest.

 

[Rally Man]

Although vibration in my car aren't anywhere near the knocking sound from the bushings, this is next on my to do list after I'm done with my suspension. I'll be replacing all 3 with OEM ones. It has more them 100k miles so I rather do all and not worry about for some time.

 

[loosenut]

I need to replace all three of mine, as the vibrations at idle are getting out of hand. I am hoping to replace with OE stuff, although upgraded OE (Focus ST?) would be nice. ..... I would be most interested in hearing from the DIYers who have already done this, mostly to learn if it is a "jack-up motor and replace" or if I am in for a marathon wrench-fest.

They are fairly easy to replace. The engine does have to be supported from underneath for the no. 3 and no. 4 (pmm and dmm) mounts. Do one at a time so the engine/trans always has at least 2 mounting points left. The battery tray has to be removed for the no.4 mount but it's easy. I recommend using a jack with a sizeable block of wood under the engine oil pan and across the bottom of the trans for support. I'll be replacing my no.1 mount with the Focus one sac02 made a post about a few months ago soon. I replaced the no.3 mount with the OE part around a year ago. I think I may have read somewhere where mazda updated the OE part because of the high rate of failure.

 

[Robotazky]

62K I heard my wife's radiator rattling while standing next to the driver's window talking to her. Tripped me out.

I looked at the PMM and it was cracked on top. When removed, it was still full of fluid, but with the crack the pocket inside was destabilized and the fluid was useless.

Replaced with OEM and its smoother than it was brand new in February 2009. Very happy.

At this point I have no reason to worry with other mounts.

 

[Secondtyme]

Good info, thanks! Mine are way overdue to be replaced at 185k but i have been distracted dealing with the aged suspension.

 

[thaxman]

My pass side mount was dead by 50K, didn't realize until I had done the entire suspension. Got some peace up front for a while, but the TMM has been bad since at least 70K. Saw it from below today and the section closest to the firewall has sheared apart. I hate removing parts just to replace something unrelated, so I wonder how long I will keep the car as is before I get around to it.

The rear mount looks really good though, FWIW.

 

[Silentnoise713]

So OE for everyone?

Did u all use the one for our cars or the new gens?


@secondtyme- they all look like support the motor and bolt out old one for new one. One challenge that may arise with the TMM is when the front is on jack stands and the TMM bolt is out (two others holding in place), the motor may shift a little making it tad hard to align the holes to bolt in the new unit. Have a spare scissor jack on hand to move things around. Or, leave the car on the ground and just slip a jack underneath to support the engine since the mount comes out from the top anyway.

 

[Robotazky]

Passenger (#3)/Rear (#1)/Transmission (#4) Motor Mount Experience/Recommendat...

I used an OEM PMM that I found on Amazon for $89.

Amazon's part fit checker is wrong. It definitely fits 2.3L Mazda5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[Swenny]

I replaced my #3 passenger mount with https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) about 9 months ago (maybe?). May have failed already as I am getting odd vibrations lately. Probably go OEM next time. I also replaced my #4 trans mount with an OEM one (glad to see we finally got the torque settings for that big bolt. 61-83 ft. lbs.). It helped some, but didn't eliminate all the rattle. Haven't done the #1 rear mount

 

[Silentnoise713]

PMM Transitivity Theory: win or fail?

May I ask a 2nd gen'er to just take some close up pics of your Passenger Motor Mount? I would consider the using OEM mount if it works. The Roca cost just as much as OE so i'm a bit torn but only if the new ones fit.

Since I don’t have any willing +12 owners who would post a pic of the stock PMM, I had to do some searching and assumptions. If a=b and b=c, then a=c, right! – LOL.

Mz3 (2.3) and Mz5 (2.3) PMM are interchangeable. It seems the Mz3 (2.3) can use the MS3 (2.3 T) PMM (totally different mount design) so I would conclude the Mz5 can also use the MS3 PMM. The MS3’s PMM “look” identical (minus an extra removable “balance weight”(?) and rubber duro quality notwithstanding) to the +’12Mz5 (and newer Mz3 with the 2.5). SO, can I deduce that the newer ’12 Mz5 (2.5) PMM would work on the <’10 car? What drove me to investigate this is the simple notion that these cars are all essentially the same. The MZR bottom end where the mounts are located are unlikely to have changed. Also, they all share the same chassis (a pic would be nice :/), so why not? The fact that PMM is redesigned is illrevalnt regarding fitment –unless there’s a clearance issue with other components due to repositioning of engine bay, which is not the case. Just for kicks, there are 3-4 revision of these PMMs with funky prices. I really don’t like the <’10 OEM PMM (look like toothpick to me) while the newer one looks much more robust. So, any comments before I dive into this?

OR if someone else is interested, you can go to your local Mazda dealer who may have the new PMM in stock and have a look/comparisons. None of my local Mazda dealers carry the new PMM yet (2.5 cars are prob not old enough for them carry it as a replacement part). One in NJ has it but I’m not driving out there just to take a look.
OR, a willing '12 owner can take some measurment for us...



Props to JBR for the many motor mount how-tos
http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sh...e=page&id=22&zenid=ioadnupol65rdlshmqeb68r1n4

I replaced my #3 passenger mount with https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) about 9 months ago (maybe?). May have failed already as I am getting odd vibrations lately. Probably go OEM next time. I also replaced my #4 trans mount with an OEM one (glad to see we finally got the torque settings for that big bolt. 61-83 ft. lbs.). It helped some, but didn't eliminate all the rattle. Haven't done the #1 rear mount

Thanks for the comment Swenny. I have read the DEA mounts are junk and don't last. The problem is they do work in the short initial period so folks may leave a good rating but it is the test of time that matters most.

 

[Silentnoise713]

If a Ford Duratec 2.5 can fit into a Mz3 using the Mz3 PMM, the only missing variable to confirm is if the chassis mount holes are in the same location for gen 1 vs gen 2 Mz5 (I'd bet they are the same).

I'm very disappointed not a single volunteer is willing take a simple pic to benefit everyone...

 

[Rally Man]

I would of taken a picture, if I had gen2 mz5

 

[Robotazky]

A single pic of what? The two compared?

 

[Silentnoise713]

I would of taken a picture, if I had gen2 mz5

I know you would and thanks for offering. You are one of the few who actually post things which keeps things interesting and active. I don’t think folks understand the concept that a forum doesn’t work if you don’t contribute. That and it seems it is mostly <’10 owners that contribute.

A single pic of what? The two compared?

All I need if a pic of showing the position of the stock ‘+12 PMM relative to everything thing else around it, similar to the previous Mz3 with the Duratec motor. I can’t get a good view from any of the google images. It dawned upon me to look the Sac’s turbo thread. There is a pic that kinda/sorta shows a peep of the PMM and so far it looks like the grounding cable is in a different position. I can’t gauge depth due to the angle it was taken…


And it seems it is only the unlikely few here who has/had problems. Everyone else is dandy.

 

[Rally Man]

Send a PM to Davicho, I'm sure he'd help you out.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Replaced all 3 motor mounts. Have to let it settle for a few hundred miles but the eFocus mount may not be for me. It would be great for MTX owners but idling with an auto is no fun. Wait and see. All are pretty easy to replace. I would recommend two jacks, one hydraulic (easy up/down) to support the weight of the engine and one scissor jack (more precise movement with every turn) to move/align mounting holes.


And yes, yes it does

 

[loosenut]

Give the e-focus mount 500 miles to break in. I barely notice any vibration at idle anymore. I've kept an eye on mine since it's the ebay one and it seems to be holding up quite well.