P5 NA Build - Target 175whp

i think that the main reason that you would want to drop a new set of pistons in would be to lighten it up a little. if for no other reason than that.

no, the main reason you would want to drop a new set of pistons in is compression.

Increased static compression translates to increased dynamic compression, which allows you to run wilder cam profiles with more overlap which allows an NA engine to breathe better. In addition more compression equates to a more powerful ignition...in a nut shell.
i can go through all the details but it has been done to death on this and other forums...maybe if i get motivated i'll write a paper and post it for everyone.. i've got a few (messy) spreadsheets for calculating sh!t i should give everyone too.

The next reason for doing it would be strength

and finally it woudl be for reducing rotating mass (although, the JDM pistons would probably weigh about what the USDM pistons do).
 
The two tune idea is a really good one. The gas station right by where i work sells 104 octane race gas. The other tune would be done on premium, 94 octane. It would be cool to see the dyno difference as well as the 1/4 mile difference.

I lied.... Its leaded 110 octane race gas. No worry's though, I the only cat I have right now is the high flow one on my MAM midpipe. (im not sure how well it works anyway bc the midpipe was supposed to be high quality stainless but it started rusting a few weeks after i put it on the car) So, I can either cut it out or have a side exit exhaust for the track :)
 
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More (modified) Parts.....

I got the pistons back from classic coatings today. The ceramic coating on the top of the piston is clear and the moly (Molybdenum disulfide) coating is gray and on the skirts of the piston. I was suprised that the ceramic coating was clear as all the pictures I saw were tan colored.

Hopefully, these will be going in next week while I wait for the head to finish getting P&P.
 

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subbing. im considering my own build... and im just unsure if i want to go NA or join the darkside...

this is making me lean towards NA ha =)
 
subbing as well... i'm interested in this so called "spring Mazda meet" in wisconsin. i'd defenitely be up for that. but when i do my build i should be joining the dark side
 
subbing. im considering my own build... and im just unsure if i want to go NA or join the darkside...

this is making me lean towards NA ha =)

I don't know why turbo is considered the "dark side".... considering that most NA crazies are seen as evil alchemists who create power out of thin air (literally!).... NA is often more extreme than turbo charging....

I know turbo charging is "quicker, easier, more seductive....".... but then, NA engine building is akin to evil witch-doctory... :P
 
Because the Darkside is considered to be the easy path, but can lead to the destruction of oneself. Where as the light side is seen as harder but is more fulfilling. Much to learn you have. Lordworm
 
im thnking ill go NA and make a bit more power. im not looking to tear up the streets, but get the p5 a bit more peppy.

i was considering a turbosetup with full internals but i guess ill be doing a PnP on the head, high comp pistons, adj cam gears... cams obviously... i gots some planning to do ha. intake mani wise, would a single runner yield any gains in this area?
 
im thnking ill go NA and make a bit more power. im not looking to tear up the streets, but get the p5 a bit more peppy.

i was considering a turbosetup with full internals but i guess ill be doing a PnP on the head, high comp pistons, adj cam gears... cams obviously... i gots some planning to do ha. intake mani wise, would a single runner yield any gains in this area?

a correctly designed single runner will out perform the stock manifold by an order of magnitude...

the 626 manifold would provide gains, but nowhere near the potential that a custom built tunnel ram setup would.
 
a correctly designed single runner will out perform the stock manifold by an order of magnitude...

the 626 manifold would provide gains, but nowhere near the potential that a custom built tunnel ram setup would.

With the custom built single runner tunnel ram setup, would you be sacrificing low end breathability for more high end power?

The idea of having a visible ram air on my NA beast is quite appealing.... kind of like a huge FMIC, if I was going to the dark side :) but for me it would depend on how much it would effect my 'normal' driving.
 
Ok, I have been researching the splitsecond fuel and timing controller. Its a little cheaper, easier to install and does everything I want. how would it stack up against the microtech? Can the stock ecu 'learn' around the splitsecond controller? I know the microtechs have some idling issues with the big cams and such. its my understanding that the splitsecond controller will only make changes above approx. 4000 rpm.
 
With the custom built single runner tunnel ram setup, would you be sacrificing low end breathability for more high end power?

The idea of having a visible ram air on my NA beast is quite appealing.... kind of like a huge FMIC, if I was going to the dark side :) but for me it would depend on how much it would effect my 'normal' driving.

tunnel ram isn't ram air intake... 2 different ideas that achieve the same result (positive pressure at the valve).

Tunnel ram is RPM tuned, where ram air requires the car to be moving at speed in order to force air in.

(i call it a "tunnel ram" because the way of working it out is the same as old school carby tunnel ram manifolds - in reality it isn't quite a tunnel ram, its more a tuned single runner manifold....but the principles are the same)

Tunnel ram can be tuned for basically any RPM point, but the lower the RPM point, the longer the runners are going to be....theres some details about the maths involved in sorting out the required lengths, plenum volume, throttlebody size, and the tunnel ram itself (which is another tuned pipe, the entry to the plenum is tuned to a specific RPM range, just like the runners themselves) in one of my threads.....

Yes you would sacrifice some bottom end if you tuned for maximum power - but thems the breaks on an NA build :)
 
Ok, I have been researching the splitsecond fuel and timing controller. Its a little cheaper, easier to install and does everything I want. how would it stack up against the microtech? Can the stock ecu 'learn' around the splitsecond controller? I know the microtechs have some idling issues with the big cams and such. its my understanding that the splitsecond controller will only make changes above approx. 4000 rpm.
OK, more about this because I'm considering the SS stuff since I have sport auto & standalone, from what I understand, will clash with tranny control?
 
, from what I understand, will clash with tranny control?

I don't think it will. Even the stand alone unit like the Microtech still lets the stock ECU run a few things. The SS, I think, just alters timing and fuel mixtures.

I am in the same boat as you with the transmission.
 
well the new splitsecond unit controls air fuel ratios and retards timming. you can not advance timming on the piggyback system. that is useless to us.
 
well the new splitsecond unit controls air fuel ratios and retards timming. you can not advance timming on the piggyback system. that is useless to us.
So, what are you gonna replace your ss afc with? I'm mainly concerned with afc to stop the rich ass s*** that occurs at around 3250 rpms which is where I'm at frequently on the hwy so I can maybe slow down the carbon action going on. Not sure if I will ever do full blown NA thing with cams, headwork, bottom end & such. Wouldn't mind, just not sure I'm gonna try & go that far. Mostly wanna squeeze everything possible out of what I already have.
 
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o i was talking about the new unit. the old unit is a air fuel controller and thats it. that is what is in my car right now. i also have the mp3 ecu, so having both of those for a tuning solution is simple and a good gain.

on kens website, the one with timming control is about $570.00 and the unit i have is worth about $320.00
 
I got the pistons back from classic coatings today. The ceramic coating on the top of the piston is clear and the moly (Molybdenum disulfide) coating is gray and on the skirts of the piston. I was suprised that the ceramic coating was clear as all the pictures I saw were tan colored.

Hopefully, these will be going in next week while I wait for the head to finish getting P&P.
what's the benefit of the coated pistons?
 

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