Overheating Issue Need Some Advice

Zoomer63

Member
:
2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
Ok so since I bought my MSP ive constantly had overheating problems. I have tried replacing the radiator, thermostat, the overflow bottle was cracked and I patched it then it got so hot it busted my patch, Both the fans work and ive done a block leak check and all that stuff. The guy who owned it before me said that he did all the work on the car himself, which is cool except ive noticed that everything he has replaced was installed wrong or not tightened all the way. Today I was taking some stuff apart and I noticed that It has an after market turbo on it. The exhaust manifold, turbo, and all the plastic air pipes are all Callaway parts. That leads me to believe that he did not install it correctly, and unfortunately I have no experience with turbo chargers. So could somebody tell me if the turbo might be the cause of my car losing coolant and overheating constantly? I would greatly appriciate any advise.
 
Last edited:
The callaway parts are all original to the MSP, it should have a Garrett turbo. I recognize your pic, is your car listed on craigslist? Try replacing the radiator cap and just for kicks a new thermostat. The coolant system is relatively simple so it should be an easy fix. I would be happy to help you out as I am not far away in Austin but we can probably figure it out on here.
 
Yeah ignore the craigslist post, my ex was trying to take the car and sell it but its my car. I have tried both of those, neither worked. What is the best radiator I can put in that car? Maybe a bigger intercooler could work too? Thank you for your advise by the way.
 
A Larger intercooler will not cool the motor, it will only cool the air going into the motor.... and only when under load.

Depending on the size of the intercooler, it could actually block the air to the rad and make the problem worse.

As was stated,

Rad Cap
Thermostat
Check for leaks.
Make sure the fan comes on when it should.

This should cost under $60.00 if you do it yourself.

If it still does it, then look at Water Pump.
 
I was hoping It wouldnt come down to the water pump. Dont you have to take the timing belt off to get to it? The only timing belt I have ever done was on my 89 MX6. There is alot of coolant stains on the turbo and the air lines, but I yet have managed to find out where its coming from. Found several things I thought was causing it but each thing I fix the car still loses coolant. Ill take a look at the water pump next. Thank you for the advice.
 
I stopped using antifreeze cause every other time I went somewhere in it I had to refill the radiator so I been using water. But the water is like orange and brown kinda, it looks like rusty water. But the car was recently parked for a couple months and wasnt started or anything. It used to be so bad that I had to fill it up anywhere I went. But after I replaced the radiator, thermostat, and added a fan its doing much better. Just still is loosing coolant. I know it leaks out the overflow bottle, the heat and pressure has basically destroyed it. But I dont understand why its getting so hot that it does that.
 
There is something very wrong with it and we are overlooking what could be a simple solution..
 
Well to be honest I might have the wrong kind of radiator in it. I had a really tough time trying to find one, so I got one from advanced auto parts, its for a protege manual or automatic transmission. And I just got through checking the water pump, I see no problems with it. I guess ill try a new cap and get a new overflow bottle. Is there a specific radiator cap I should get?
 
well the parts catalog indicates a different part for auto and manual. not sure what the diff is?
 
A automatic transmission radiator just has a cooler line built into it. I got one in MSP #1716, I upgraded to a stock (full size) radiator so I could remove SMIC
 
I think I know exactly what your problem is. I recently worked on my turbo and was having the same problem. Look at the rubber hose behind the turbo itself, see if the metal hoses are pushed firmly into the rubber hose. Check that the hose clamps are tight, and last if that does not work look at the front and back of the turbo, there is a metal line that feeds coolant through the turbo. Remove the bolt and check that there is a washer between the bolt head and metal line and a washer between the metal line and turbo. This is a banjo bolt that if the spacing is off it will leak coolant or burn it next to the exhaust by the turbo. My problem was that I was missing a washer and overheated the car by using all of the coolant. Try these and I think it will fix your problem.
 
How many miles are on the car? The coolant should only be green, usually when it changes color its because its mixing with oil due to a bad head gasket or warped head. The water pump is under the timing belt and if neither have been changed they probably should be. I am going to be helping another titanium MSP owner change his timing belt and water pump soon, maybe we could do it all at once. Honestly maybe I should take a look at it.
 
A automatic transmission radiator just has a cooler line built into it. I got one in MSP #1716, I upgraded to a stock (full size) radiator so I could remove SMIC

Just FYI, the 'full size' N/A pro radiator is not actually an upgrade, it holds less coolant than the stock MSP radiator.
 
How many miles are on the car? The coolant should only be green, usually when it changes color its because its mixing with oil due to a bad head gasket or warped head. The water pump is under the timing belt and if neither have been changed they probably should be. I am going to be helping another titanium MSP owner change his timing belt and water pump soon, maybe we could do it all at once. Honestly maybe I should take a look at it.

he said he's not running any coolant
 
Just FYI, the 'full size' N/A pro radiator is not actually an upgrade, it holds less coolant than the stock MSP radiator.

The amount of coolant is a factor, but even a greater factor is the amount of coil surface area where the heat transfers, also both fans cover the entire radiator surface. The biggest plus is that I dont have to look at the factory SMIC sitting there unused. The car does run slightly cooler. The main reason was I had a bad stock radiator and it was cheaper to go w/the full size radiator and I got to remove SMIC
 
he said he's not running any coolant
Oh yeah, still it shouldn't be rust colored. It has to be mixing with oil.
The amount of coolant is a factor, but even a greater factor is the amount of coil surface area where the heat transfers, also both fans cover the entire radiator surface. The biggest plus is that I dont have to look at the factory SMIC sitting there unused. The car does run slightly cooler. The main reason was I had a bad stock radiator and it was cheaper to go w/the full size radiator and I got to remove SMIC

Gotcha, I hate looking at the useless stock SMIC too I just remember reading they didn't actually screw us over with a smaller stock rad. Can't wait to get a fullsize aluminum (probably mishimoto) rad and run a 1.3 bar cap.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back