So... does that mean the yellow top is for systems with a higher electrical draw? I'm going to be doing two fairly serious amps, one for my internals, and one for 2 10"subs with an electronic crossover. Wondering if the yellow top is what I should be considering?
I know very little about these batteries, other than the raves I've been seeing here about them. Last time I bought a new battery, International was the way to go, but Pterodactyls flew back then also. (drive)
wipedawg said:
red top and yellow top are about the same size... and unless you are running tons of lights and a huge system, i'd go with the redtop.
The Optima yellow fits fine. The factory battery " tie down " can be used with one of the plastic adaptors that comes with the optima. I had over 2000 watts of "old school" Precision Power amps and with the factory battery the head lights would "dim" so much it look like the lights almost turned off!!! With the Optima I saw absolutely no "dimming " of the lights. Go with the yellow top if your doing any serious audio system.
The yellow top is deep cycle. That means you can drain it more without causing permanent damage to the battery. You get real use out of paying for for the yellow top is if you do a lot of wenching off the battery or if you run your stereo system in your car without the engine running. Just basically anything that drains the battery a lot and fast. Otherwise the red top is just fine, if you even think you need an Optima battery. To be perfectly honest most of us don't need it other than bling value and bragging rights. Battery technology these days excedes what a regular car needs. For example, I have a Toyota pick-up with over 278,000 miles on it and the Sears Diehard battery I put in there has been working fine for at the least the last 150,000 miles. In fact a few weeks back I didn't drive my truck for a while because I was only driving my Honda for fuel economy reasons and the battery in my truck was dead when I tried to start it. With a quick jump and drove it around for a few miles, the battery was just fine. So if you're not looking to score style points or if you really don't have a need for it, I'd say save your money and spend it on other mods that you can really use.
I had over 2000 watts of "old school" Precision Power amps and with the factory battery the head lights would "dim" so much it look like the lights almost turned off!!! With the Optima I saw absolutely no "dimming " of the lights.
yellow fits w/ modification, supposedly best 4 sounds (make sure u get the correct battery size as there r several different sizes in yellow) and other heavy use but the red does just fine as well (it only comes in 1 size)...gotta watch 4 the negative positive otherwise u may have 2 modify your wiring...blue is more 4 RV vehicles and boats.
Optima Red #27936 is supposedly the easiest 2 install. (i'm not sure if this is the store stock # or the actual stock # 4 the battery, i was pushed 4 time and dug out and didn't fully c the optima catalog).
I really believe that our alternators suck. Does anyone else agree? Could this really be a prob for some people? My lights dim when my cooling fan kicks on. (notcool) Has anyone replaced theirs with a higher capacity and seen improvements? I will probably be buying a Red Top since I will not be going full out on the audio (probably just two amps total with not alot of power). But, I would like to believe a new alternator would work wonders.
I really believe that our alternators suck. Does anyone else agree? Could this really be a prob for some people? My lights dim when my cooling fan kicks on. (notcool) Has anyone replaced theirs with a higher capacity and seen improvements? I will probably be buying a Red Top since I will not be going full out on the audio (probably just two amps total with not alot of power). But, I would like to believe a new alternator would work wonders.
replace ur battery to chassis wires to bigger ones and replace the altenator to battery with a thicker wire too, u would be suprised the differance , with the system i had, stock i would dim my lights almost off, with those modifications they wouldnt dim at all..
replace ur battery to chassis wires to bigger ones and replace the altenator to battery with a thicker wire too, u would be suprised the differance , with the system i had, stock i would dim my lights almost off, with those modifications they wouldnt dim at all..
Thanks, definitiely will have to try that. It sucks being that everything on my car electronically is stock and it does that. Don't want to replace alt.
Red 35 here, I got 4, 12 inch Subs Custom work. I got 3 amps installed and alot of other crap. I got no problems here. I had to put a 3 inch thick piece of compressed wood so that it fits. looks funny, but i cant find the base for it.
The yellow one overheats and expands like clay. I had to replace wth the red one.
Hope this helps. Oh keep in mind here in Puerto Rico is over 84 F everyday.
This post is kind of funny because my stock battery died the other day. I noticed my gauges were really dim (I had my system going and my ac) I turned the ac off and the gauges went back to normal. But I do agree that the alternator or maybe just the whole electrical system sucks in our cars 'cause my headlights dim when the bass hits too. I got a red top optima from my buddy and I havn't had any problems yet.
replace ur battery to chassis wires to bigger ones and replace the altenator to battery with a thicker wire too, u would be suprised the differance , with the system i had, stock i would dim my lights almost off, with those modifications they wouldnt dim at all..
so you just replaced the gound wire with a bigger one as well as the wire running to the alt? and this made a big difference?
i also dim when my fan or somthing kicks on would like a quick easy fix
yep , i had over 3000 watts in my car in amplifiers, neon lights, 10 inch tv, no lights dimed untile i blew my battery up, then put the optima, didnt have a single problem.. i used 4 guage wire..
