One easy Check Engine Light fix for 2002 Protege

Brcobrem

Member
Hi Mazda Forums,

While on a trip 500 miles form home a couple weeks ago, the Check Engine Light came on. I cleaned the battery terminals and it went off. I thought I was done, but it came on again a couple weeks later. (Evidently pulling off the negative cable for a couple minutes is how you reset that light, so be careful in your resolutions).

One common (but not so easy) "Check Engine Light" fix for this car is an ERG cleaning or replacement. Here's a link for that one:
"Check-engine light: Drivability problems accompanied by check-engine light often due to EGR exhaust passages clogged. (1999-2001)" :
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1999-to-2003-mazda-protege-2.htm

While trying to see just where the ERG valve sits in my Mazda, I came up with an even easier fix:
IMG%5E_6942B.jpg


Looks like the forum's "Insert Image" feature doesn't like it when the characters "IMG" are in the url, so I'll just include the actual link:
http://cid-0ba9610cbd3ba347.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Protege 2002/IMG^_6942B.jpg

Here's a longer view pic:
http://cid-0ba9610cbd3ba347.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Protege 2002/IMG^_6941B.jpg

Yep, that's solid aluminum duct tape applied in overlapping bands to a broken fresh air intake hose. I cleaned off the plastic pretty good with a damp cloth straddled around the hose first. I cut ~18" lengths of the tape (don't remember exact length, but they were ~2" longer the circumference of the duct.

Honestly, I have 1986 and 1993 Fords, and their plastic air intake hoses never cracked in half just sitting there. If you're reading this Mazda, please take note of this.

Btw, don't forget to pull off the negative battery terminal for a couple minutes to reset that light (I guessed at 10 minutes).

Btw, changing the air filter will put some stress on that aluminum tape. Check the tape after a filter change.

Hope this helps someone.

Regards,
Brcobrem
 
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I hope that's just a temporary fix! Remember that newer engines tend to run hotter than the old ones, primarily because of emissions requirements. I always advocate bring in outside air to cool off the engine bay and all those hoses, belts, and electronics.
 
I guess that means "wallet thankfully full". Mine is because I didn't have to shell out $$$ for a trip to the dealer and a new intake hose.

:->
Brcobrem
 
Hi Mazda Forums,

Here's a follow up: The Protege began idling rough and having noticeable surging during normal driving again. I just checked my home brewed fix with the metal duct tape around the air intake hose. Much to my chagrin, the metal tape had cracked from flexing fatigue. I have some good 3M high temp duct tape and have patched the hose that way . . .

So I admit defeat on that fix and have just ordered a new hose from Rockauto for ~$33 + s/h.

I guess the positive point is knowing that a broken hose turns on the check engine light, and it can be temporarily fixed with household materials. So patch it to keep running, and order the new hose.

Another thought: I suppose that a broken engine mount (or one without the bushing intact) would flex that hose to the breaking point also (ie. it's not very flexible).

Hey Mazda: Imho, that hose should be real rubber/elastomer, and not HDPE plastic.

For what that's worth . . .
Brcobrem
 
brocobrem, not sure you did a search or not...but all the info you'd ever need about your egr issue, resetting the pcm and other both repair and maint tips are at you finger tips....good luck
 
Hi Mazda Forums,

If you like, here's another follow-up on this one:

The new air intake hose arrived. It was a very nicely molded and very flexible rubber part.

First I used a razor knife to cut out a ~3inch section in the middle of the old hose. I then loosened up the clamps and moved them off the ends. The hose didn't want to come off the air cleaner, so I used the razor knife to carefully cut a slit in the hose up over the air cleaner nozzle (I was spreading the slit open during the cutting to avoid cutting into the air cleaner assembly). The hose then easily peeled off the nozzle. The carburetor end of the hose came off with just a little twisting.

I previously mentioned that I wished Mazda had not used HDPE plastic for the hose. After removing the old hose, I could tell that it was in fact originally rubber, but had completely hardened over time. Since it was no longer flexible at the bellows, it just cracked and caused the Check Engine Light to illuminate.

To summarize: The Check Engine Light illuminated because of a broken Air Intake Hose, and not an EGR valve issue.

For what that's worth . . .

Regards,
Brcobrem
 
the best way to fix a check engine light is to find out what caused it. cars nowadays are smart, they can tell you what the problem is. places like advance auto, autozone, etc, will scan your ecu to determine the DTC free of charge.
 
Thanks cougar10agREDUX for the reply.

I did not realize that some of the parts stores will check ecu. Very good to know !

Once again for others who may be following this post, when the check engine light comes on on a 2002 Protege, check the air intake hose for cracks (with a mirror too). Mine was cracked in the bellows section, mostly underneath the hose. I did not see this cracking the first time I pulled off the road when the light first came on.

Regards,
Brcobrem
 
When the check engine light comes on you should have it scanned to see what the problem is instead of going on a wild goose chase. You got lucky. Glad it worked out for you.
 
Thank you so much for bringing up this topic and the detailed fix! My 2000 Protege ES has been trouble-free for 13 yrs until yesterday (148000 miles) when the check engine light flashed on. Following your advice, I checked the air cleaner intake hose. A huge crack was visible even from the top. Just ordered the hose from ebay for $24. I will update after the replacement.

All the best,

Wei
 
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Update

The air cleaner intake hose arrived today. By following youtube's video instruction, I had no problem replacing the old one. After disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes, the check engine light turned off. Now the car runs smoother than before.

Wei
 
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the best way to fix a check engine light is to find out what caused it. cars nowadays are smart, they can tell you what the problem is. places like advance auto, autozone, etc, will scan your ecu to determine the DTC free of charge.

I too had the check engine light go on and the car idle rough. I went to both Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts and both did the diagnostic for me and the code was bank 1 running lean. They said it could be a bunch of things like a dirty fuel filter or a bad sensor or bad plugs...

Luckily a guy there said on a Mazda Protege it usually is a broken air intake hose as Brcobrem said. We checked it and sure enough it had big holes in the bellows part. I did the duct tape fix and disconnected the negative and the car is running fine. Now I will order a new hose since the replacement is simple and only costs about $25 dollars on the internet.
 
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