oil problems

I would think from the factory when they assembly the engine they use Dino motor oil. These cars are not required to use synthetic so it would be a safe bet your first oil I the car was Dino oil.

Also all Mobil 1 is synthetic oil, it's the Mobil 5000 that is Dino oil. If you have a walmart around get a 5qt jug of mobile 1 high mileage and maybe just a fram ultra filter if you want to go like 7k mi oil changes. If that is too long, look for the purolator pureone filter and change before 7k mi.

You should buy a bigger oil filter like I do and I change my oil at 7k miles. The one I buy is for 1990 Mazda 929. It's half longer than stock Protege one.

Anyone like to use Lucas products in these cars? I've always used em in my American vehicles. I liked the fuel additive with the upper cylinder lubricant. And the oil stabilizer. Ill keep using my mobile 1 oil though

I tried Lucas, the one in that 32 oz bottle with the pointy tip. I used it as directed in the fuel tank as they claim increase in mpg. My experience was pure bulls***. Not even 1 mpg higher. I use fully.com to track my mpg as you can see from my sig and I monitored the mpg from the time I used lucas and compared it to previous fill ups and gained nothing. They claim to give you money back. Too much of a hassle. I will never ever buy this crap again. All Lucas stuff is pure marketing bulls***. I bet they spend more time and money on advertising than on research and development.
 
I haven't experimented with other products to tell you one is better then the other. I do know that a lot of people including myself believe seamfoam is a good product and well worth the investment. If you decide to use seamfoam in your crankcase, pour 1.5oz for every liter. 1.5 x 4 = 6oz. The can is a total of 10 fluid oz so pouring a little over half will give you the best results. Use the rest on either your fuel injection system or pour it in your fuel tank. If you pour the rest of the 4oz in your fuel tank make sure you have 4 gallons of gas ( 1oz for every gallon). Hope this informative.
 
I may do the Seafoam stuff myself next time I change my oil. I do have slow acceleration and a misfire what it seems sometimes and every few months a CEL for evap system comes on but I clear it and the car is good again for a few months. AT about 141k miles I think it may help more than hurt.
 
One thing to keep in mind is that if your car has ten years of build-up in the fuel system or crank case because it has never had a treatment,... you can release a huge amount of gunk that can flow the the system like a blood clot and give your car a stroke.

I would assume that if your car has never been done that adding small amounts with every fill up would perhaps be the best approach.

I could picture stuff dissolving (partially,... ending up like contact cement) from the gas tank and plugging up the fuel filter or fuel injectors ???
 
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I'm not worried about adding it to the fuel as I been adding the Chevron Techron stuff once every few years and most recent this past winter so I don't think I will get much stuff loosen up but I was thinking of doing the crankcase and pouring some amounts through the spark plug holes and letting the engine crank a few times without the spark plugs in so the stuff doesn't get burned up in an instant. AND because I know that one or more of the cylinders will not be in the top most position for this stuff to start dissolving the crap that's on top in there so if i add a little bit and then crank over the engine and repeat the process several times doing each cylinder i will have a more even cleaning. I can also add some through the pcv valve like someone mentioned and see how that works. I think I may need 2 bottles for a complete job. I remember I did a similar thing on my old protege over 10 years ago and I used something called Mazda top engine cleaner. I did this in a field at my friends farm in Pennsylvania and the thing smoked like a smoke machine LOL. That same car lasted me well over 250K miles and I got rid of it because the AC broke and it was burning too much oil but id did take me to California and many many times to Missisauga.
 
I'm thinking that if you are trying to release stuck oil rings, that you might want to do that with a warm engine so that the seafoam will be more likely to sit on the oil ring (because they're warmed up and touching the cylinder walls) and not just drain right past those rings.
 
Ok guys I just got done with my compression test and this is how I did it. I first unplugged my coil packs and removed them. Removed my spark plugs. Unpluged all four fuel injectors. My first test was dry then wet, from the left to right of motor. Hooked the tester in far left plug hole and pressed clutch and gas pedal all the way down and proceeded to turn the motor over for 7 fast seconds. Did this to each one exactly the same. (1) 181 (2) 181 (3) 181 (4) 182. Then I did the wet test witch I put a small amount of oil down on top of the piston. Prob less than a cap full. I did this one at a time did the test then moved on to the next one. My results were (1) 191 (2) 191 (3) 185 (4) 189. Now I'm not fully sure if I read the gage right but I got pretty consistent numbers.
 
My numbers look high compared to that chart. Maybe I didn't do it right. But for what I did do the numbers were close to each other and not all over the place. I can always do it again. Its only takes 10 mins.
 
The bigger than stock filter on sale from amazon. Fee shipping if you buy 5 of them

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Fram ultra filters are also very good as well. You need a good filter if your going to run the seafoam for any amount of miles.

Btw I did the piston soak overnight and added seafoam to my fresh highmileage oil. Hopefully my oil consumption will be less. I will report back soon.
 
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Yeah lvevo let me know how it goes. Ill try to do it next if my oil consumption doesn't get better
 
oh, and a couple of times i saw the question: 'is it true synthetic doesn't smoke?' Answer is - it smokes when burnt like any other oil...
 
The bigger than stock filter on sale from amazon. Fee shipping if you buy 5 of them

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Fram ultra filters are also very good as well. You need a good filter if your going to run the seafoam for any amount of miles.

Btw I did the piston soak overnight and added seafoam to my fresh highmileage oil. Hopefully my oil consumption will be less. I will report back soon.

I was thinking about doing the same thing. I did a dry compression test last night my outcome was cyl 1 191, cyl 2 191, cyl 3 200, cyl 4, 191. With the amount of miles I'm not to worried about cyl3 but I know just because my compression is good doesn't mean I couldn't have carbon build up on my oil rings. Also could you share your procedure of how you did it, time to soak, how you removed the seamfoam?
 
I was thinking about doing the same thing. I did a dry compression test last night my outcome was cyl 1 191, cyl 2 191, cyl 3 200, cyl 4, 191. With the amount of miles I'm not to worried about cyl3 but I know just because my compression is good doesn't mean I couldn't have carbon build up on my oil rings. Also could you share your procedure of how you did it, time to soak, how you removed the seamfoam?

All I did was remove the spark plug so you can pour about 2 tablespoon of seafoam into the cylinders and replaced the plugs. Do this the night before, and in the morning just start it up. I like to use older spark plugs when using seafoam, that way if they do get fouled by seafoam I don't care so much. Plus new cooper ones are like $1.50 new anyway.

So far my smoking is dramatically reduced, so my thinking is another 2 doses and it will hopefully not smoke and consume 1qt every 3k miles or so. I don't expect the oil consumption to go away completely.
 
All I did was remove the spark plug so you can pour about 2 tablespoon of seafoam into the cylinders and replaced the plugs. Do this the night before, and in the morning just start it up.

You don't think that doing it this way will cause uneven soaking? I mean some pistons are up and some are down. I was thinking that when I do mine next time I do an oil change I will disconnect the fuel pump and start the engine to have it use up all the fuel in the line and then crank over the engine every hour or so for several hours just to have this stuff spread through the entire motion range of the piston as it soaks.
 
So pour 2 tablespoons per cylinder, do you put the old plugs back in right away or leave them out? Also do you suck out excessive amounts of seamfoam before trying to start it? Sorry probably being a pain in the ass!
 
I would put the plugs back in and crank over the engine without the fuel pump on as i said in my post above so the compression in the cylinder will force some of the seafoam in the cracks and clean better. i wouldn't worry about the excess seafoam as it will shoot out through the exhaust valves. Can't say about the excess 100% as I have not done it myself yet but i assume it will not prevent ignition with a small amount of it in there like 2 tablespoons.
 
You should buy a bigger oil filter like I do and I change my oil at 7k miles. The one I buy is for 1990 Mazda 929. It's half longer than stock Protege one.

I went to the Fram website to compare different oil filters ( http://www.fram.com/ )

Theses are the specs for the stock P5 filter: Part Number TG6607

Product Type Tough Guard Lube Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.27"
Gasket O.D. 2.53"
Gasket Thickness .2"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 2.63"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 2.69"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 13


These are the specs for the 2002 Mazda 626 V6 (in 20003 they switched to the Mazda 6, with a different engine and oil filter) : Part Number HM7317

Product Type High Mileage Oil Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.22"
Gasket O.D. 2.48"
Gasket Thickness .28"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 3.47"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 2.69"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 13


The 1990 Mazda 929 oil filter has these specs: * * Part Number HM3593A

Product Type High Mileage Oil Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.13"
Gasket O.D. 2.42"
Gasket Thickness .2"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 3.39"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 3.02"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 12


It looks like the 929 filter is the biggest. I don't think the gasket dimensions matter because the mating surface on the engine has quite a bit of room for a different size gasket. The 929 filter is 1/3" "fatter" than our stock or the 626 filter which may be an issue if the filter is stuck upon removal and you need to use a filter wrench on it. The 929 filter has a blow-by rating of 12 PSI as compared to the 13 PSI of the stock filter which is close enough in my opinion.

The 929 filter appears to be a VERY common filter on earlier vehicles so it should be easy to find at a good price.
 
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