Oil oil brand and weight for 24k miles

A lot of posts about how hot our oil/turbos get. Does anyone make, or has anyone installed an oil cooler for/on our car ?
 
A lot of posts about how hot our oil/turbos get. Does anyone make, or has anyone installed an oil cooler for/on our car ?

I know on mine, Mazdaspeed 3 2008 GT it has an oil cooler already. I found this out by doing the spin on oil filter conversion.
 
I know on mine, Mazdaspeed 3 2008 GT it has an oil cooler already. I found this out by doing the spin on oil filter conversion.

yeah, I tried search, and found a few that seemed to think we had one. I dont remember hearing about it before, so I thought I'd ask.
 
Yes, we have an oil cooler. But that's not really what concerns me about use of dino oil in a turbocharged engine. The worst place for heat break down of the oil, if it is going happen takes, place inside the turbo housing while the oil is bathing the turbine shaft journal bearings. That's where the temps skyrocket. And there is further heat soak of the turbo center housing after shutdown and heat gets transferred from the exhaust manifold on one side and the hot downpipe on the other. Bringing temps down by an oil cooler is a good thing, but it does not prevent exposure of the oil to those high temps when it is passing through that space between the shaft and journal bearings, or after shutdown when the oil pump stops.

We have water cooling on the turbo center housing too, and that continues to pump engine coolant through the turbo by thermal syphon effect even after the engine is turned off. This helps quite a bit, but temps are still sky high (over 1500 degrees) at the point where the oil passes through the center of the turbo.
 
HTO-06 is Honda's spec for their turbo cars. Pennzoil platinum and Mobil 1 in the 5w-30 grade both meet this stringent spec. I use the PP as UOA's show it holds up better to fuel dilution,
 
castrol syntec 5w-40 this is my 3rd oil change with it...been running fine less smoke

p.s (its realy all the same s*** if its full sythetic heh)
 
I would "assume"-assumption is a motherfucker lol...that all top tier fully synthetic motor oils are good to go for this car. I use Castrol Edge 5-30..Ive heard great things from Amsoil...along with Penzoil Platinum and ofcourse the industry standard Mobil 1..I would prabaly Run Amsoil if money was no option..but think im well protected by any of the ones stated above..prabaly a few more others too..but you get the idea.
 
(its realy all the same s*** if its full sythetic heh)

Logical but not true.

All "full synthetics" have a certain amount of mineral oil base (dino oil) in small quantities that contain the manufacturer's proprietary additives. The amount of dino oil, while small enough to still allow the oil to meet the industry standards for a "full synthetic" label, does vary from brand to brand, as do the additives.
 
Both synthetics and dino oil are still made from petroleum. If you really want to learn about oil, head over to Bob is the oil guy, http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/. I personally use Castrol 0W-30 which is also called German Castrol. If you look at the cSt #'s it tests closer to a 40W oil at 100 degC. I will personally always run synthetic in a turbo motor because the turbo gets so hot and the synthetic resists break down better than the dino oil at the really high temps. It is just a little extra insurance for me.

Oil coming out black or dark color is also not a bad thing either, for the most part. It just means that the detergents in the oil are cleaning all the crud out. The exceptions to this is when it smells really burned, from getting to hot.
 
Funny. My dealer insists (and showed it to me on his computer) that the recommended oil is now 5W-20. This is also what the PDF owner's manual at Mazda's North America website lists, on page 8-18:

"NOTE
Changing the engine oil should be done
by an Authorized Mazda Dealer.
qRecommended Oil
Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil.
Oil container labels provide important
information.
A chief contribution this type of oil makes
to fuel economy is reducing the amount of
fuel necessary to overcome engine
friction.
U.S.A. and CANADA
(ILSAC)
Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline
Engines” by the American Petroleum
Institute (API). An oil with this trademark
symbol conforms to the current engine
and emission system protection standards
and fuel economy requirements of the
International Lubricant Standardization
and Approval Committee (ILSAC),
comprised of U.S. and Japanese
automobile manufacturers.
5W-20
–20 0 20 40 60 80 100 120
–30 –20 –10 0 10 20 30 40 50
Except U.S.A. and CANADA
(ILSAC)
Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil. If SAE 5W-20
engine oil is not available in your market. Use
SAE 5W-30 engine oil.
Mexico
8-18
Maintenance and Care
Owner Maintenance
Mazda3_8V66-EA-06F_Edition2 Page292
Friday, May 26 2006 10:55 AM
Form No."
 
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Careful there Robin! I think you may have the wrong page. 8-18 is for the non-turbo Mazda 3 and 8-19 is for the Speed 3 with turbo.

I believe the correct page specifies 5W30.

Pages attached. Our dealers are woefully ignorant about our cars. Your dealer seems to have shown you the wrong page.
 

Attachments

Careful there Robin! I think you may have the wrong page. 8-18 is for the non-turbo Mazda 3 and 8-19 is for the Speed 3 with turbo.

I believe the correct page specifies 5W30.

Pages attached. Our dealers are woefully ignorant about our cars. Your dealer seems to have shown you the wrong page.

Thanks. I ask because the PDF I got was directly from Mazda USA, and they only had one Owner's Manual - for Mazda3, including Mazdaspeed 3, just like the paper copy in my car. Those are not the same 8-18 and 8-19 on this link:
http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/pdf/manuals/2007_Mazda3_OM.pdf This is the link you get when you select 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 for owner's manuals. My car is '07.

Weird ... just got off the phone with Mazda NA and they said "go by what's in the owner's manual (which is 5W-20) or whatever the dealer recommends (which is also 5W-20). Why would the '08's owner's manual have a different recommendation than the '07?
 
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Why? Because Mazda's '07 manual is wrong and they are too damn lazy to go back and correct it in the on-line pdf. Run the light s*** if you want but it is wrong for the turbo engine.
 
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Why? Because Mazda's '07 manual is wrong and they are too damn lazy to go back and correct it in the on-line pdf. Run the light s*** if you want but it is wrong for the turbo engine.

And they're too lazy to update the info. to the dealers. ??? That'd be weird after several years. That's why I went online because I figured they'd have that updated if any.

I'm trying to get to the bottom of this. Thing is, if it screws up the engine, they're liable. If I insist they put in a different weight oil, and the turbo starts smoking, who'll be liable? So, who should I believe? You and MazdaForums24/7 or my dealer and Mazda NA? In other words, who's going to pay for my smoking turbo if it ever happens? There's also people here recommending other weights and insisting that synthetic is a must, and those dealers who are saying "No" to synthetic and insisting on petroleum based oils.

I think I'm going to ask them to call the Mazda NA tech hotline for a direct answer.

BTW, my car has been perfect for 32K miles. I haven't done an oil analysis yet. Maybe I should .... And if it comes out great ...?
 
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I'm done trying to help. Did you see the revision date on your pdf - 2006 before your car was made. They are not keeping their publications up to date. This error on turbo oil weight has been acknowleged and corrected is subsequent model manuals. My posted page 8-19 is correct. Mazda even has a TSB recommending 5W40 for those with smoking turbos. Your dealer is pitiful in not keeping current. Your oil requirements are the same for ALL 2.3 TURBO engines regardless of model year and it's NOT 20 WEIGHT.
 
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I'm done trying to help. Did you see the revision date on your pdf - 2006 before your car was made. They are not keeping their publications up to date. This error on turbo oil weight has been acknowleged and corrected is subsequent model manuals. My posted page 8-19 is correct. Mazda even has a TSB recommending 5W40 for those with smoking turbos. Your dealer is pitiful in not keeping current. Your oil requirements are the same for ALL 2.3 TURBO engines regardless of model year and it's NOT 20 WEIGHT.

Hmmm ... no reason to get in a huff about this. My response is reasonable. What do you think about my concerns of Mazda and my dealer backing their recommendations and not my own course of action?

Oh, and could 5W-20 be reasonable for Chicago winters?
 
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Not sure what the argument even is, 5w-30 for this engine is CORRECT. It's no big surprise that the dealer doesn't know what the right oil is. I've found over the years that I know much more about the cars I drive than the dealers do, of course there can be some exceptions, but in general when it comes to these questions re: our MS3 the so called "experts" have their collective heads up their *****. As far as synthetic oil or dino, I use a synthetic. Again don't know how anyone can say it's not the right choice for a turbo engine....
 
My wife's CX-9 uses 5W-20, mainly because it's supposed to help improve gas mileage since it's a thin oil when it gets up to temperature. It's fine for our Pittsburgh winters. If you're really concerned about the cold, you could consider a 0W weight, but I don't think it's necessary.

With that said, I don't personally know anyone with a turbo car that uses 5W-20, it seems a little thin for a hot-running turbo, especially if you run hard and stay in boost a lot--I'd be worry about degradation. My last turbo Audi (S4) initially recommended a 5W-30, but I worried so much about my biturbos that I used 0W-40, as did most owners, since I like to get on the boost often.

Then again, if you're a gentle driver and stay out of boost, I guess I wouldn't lose sleep using a 5W-20 grade.
 

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