Oil Filter Relocation and Oil Cooling pt.2

i think imma put two oil co0Lers on my car...the one that the msps come with stock and one of the fin types....overkill yes...being extra safe, yes...this will add more oil in the rotation so thatll help co0L it also, im also getting the oil filter relocation kit, which i dont know how it will fit with the oil co0Ler but we will see...i know terry at spo0Lin is selling relocation kits, im not sure what brand though
 
another thing of note....you want to stay within the 180-210 degreee mark. Any cooler than that...the oil will not be at the right operating temperature and you will end up damaging the engine.

Dumb Keola...do not bother with the MSP Oil Cooler....there may be some fitment issues with the oil cooler and a sandwhich plate adaptor (the combination of the two).

Save the money and get a really efficient intercooler, good lines and the thermostat and even a fan that remotely turns on at the desired temperatures.
 
YP5 Toronto said:
Save the money and get a really efficient intercooler, good lines and the thermostat and even a fan that remotely turns on at the desired temperatures.

where would i get these from...especially the fan, fan housing, and sensor/switch to tell when to turn the fan on? this is a damn good idea...ive seen an oil co0Ler on someones p5...

http://public.nelson-atkins.org/host_pics/turbo/turbo_install/4.jpg

thats the link...looks like a pretty good idea and it might even benefit from my nterco0Ler (getting some overspray) when i get that from nx express
 
damn...over 600 bucks for this mod??? sounds kinda pricey to me...its a damn great idea and mod, but i think id rather do much more with that money than this....ill just change my oil at the 2000 mark as always, great info though and i will definetly be doing this when i get everything else i need.
 
duMb KeoLa said:
damn...over 600 bucks for this mod??? sounds kinda pricey to me...its a damn great idea and mod, but i think id rather do much more with that money than this....ill just change my oil at the 2000 mark as always, great info though and i will definetly be doing this when i get everything else i need.


That is why the MSP oil cooler is a great option. Not as pricey and it still offers the benefits of an oil cooler.

And for those of you who don't know, the MSP oil cooler is similar to the one used on Miatas. Even the big monster turbo Miatas that Flyin' Miata puts out. And the oil cooler works fine (read as it makes a difference) on those cars running 12 psi.
 
taken from http://www.alamomotorsports.com/pmc/Contents.html


Basic setup

Dual Filter relocation kit - 1221 - $28.65
Spin On Oil Adapter - 116 - $10.72
Remote Oil Thermostat - 1060 - $38.41
Reg. Rubber Hoses and various fittings $75 (max)
Four pass cooler - 101 - $52.63
Total $205.41


Higher end setup with Electrical Fan

You could run the fan to come on when the radiator comes on or get a thermal switch for $20

Dual Filter relocation kit - 1221 - $28.65
Spin On Oil Adapter - 116 - $10.72
Remote Oil Thermostat - 1060 - $38.41
Reg. Rubber Hoses and various fittings $75 (max
Six Pass cooler coil w/ Fan Module - 12311 - $161.47
Total: $314.25

You could run the fan to come on when the radiator comes on with this setup.


Granted...if you used steel braided lines and super cool fittings, this could easily run upwards to $500 - $600. You can always start with the basic setup..and if you are like me...you can always upgrade to the better looking lines later on.

Another neat feature is that the filter relcation kit (look at picture) allows for multiple setups to allow for a custom direction of lines and flow. The connections not used are meant to be "plugged" up, but you can easily add an OIL Pressure Sending unit to one connection and add an OIL Temperature Sending unit to the other one.

I have spent way to much time on this subject, but you can make your own decision.

I will do this...but not yet...tooo broke!

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I might consider this for my stock P5...just get the relocation kit ($50 US) and mount it upside down near the top of the firewall. Then I only have to crawl under the beast to drain the oil!

Would the extra two to three feet of line increase the oil capacity or not? I would doubt it, but hey I'm not a mechanic.
 
yes...but marginally.....but with the relocation kit...you can use a larger filter...and add more volume that way....
 
bump

How are we to know how much oil to fill the car with after installing an oilcooler and lines. i would assume it would add a decent amount of oil to the system, but im not sure what would drain back into the pan, giving a false oil level reading.
 
paul... couple of ways.... first you could estimate the added volume (above the stock levels outlined in the service manual) by "looking" at the added volume the lines and filters add.

Second...I would fill the car up with an estimated amount...minus a "bit." Disable the injectors (I have not done this, but there should be a fuse) and crank the engine over a few times to get the oil pump going. Wait for the oil to settle and check the level.

Drive the car for a bit to get the oil warmed up.... let the car settle and check the levels. Once you are confident that the right amount of oil has been added, remember that volume for future reference.

Again...this is what I would do.

For those reading this post for the first time...START from the beginning.
 
I would agree that you're adding additional "plumbing" which means you'll need additional oil. If your new hoses and larger filter require an additional half quart of oil, then your dip stick would not be accurate! Let's say you go way overboard and you need an additional quart, then when the dip stick said "full" you would actually be "empty" in the oil pan when the oil was circulating (when everything is filled with oil you would be short oil in the pan at the pickup. . .and oil starvation is not a good thing).

Guess that is another good argument for doing a system like the MSP oil cooler. Wow, I was even trying to do that!
 
i was thinking of this problem the other day... i figure i could fill up all hoses and oil cooler. before install.. dump them out into a measuring cup, and add that amount to 3.7qts or what ever it is.. I was also thinknig since adding my turbo kit, should i be adding oil for the oil line to the turbo, or is that so minimal that it doesnt matter. assuming there is no oil remaining in the drain line off the turbo.

i have an oil pressure gauge, and it is mounted on the oil supply line on my turbo. i have noticed it takes a few seconds for oil to get there after an oil change. not sure how much oil that line can consume, but i am aware it takes a few second for the oil to get there.
 
Little Beavis said:
I would agree that you're adding additional "plumbing" which means you'll need additional oil. If your new hoses and larger filter require an additional half quart of oil, then your dip stick would not be accurate! Let's say you go way overboard and you need an additional quart, then when the dip stick said "full" you would actually be "empty" in the oil pan when the oil was circulating (when everything is filled with oil you would be short oil in the pan at the pickup. . .and oil starvation is not a good thing).

Guess that is another good argument for doing a system like the MSP oil cooler. Wow, I was even trying to do that!
Oil will reside in the plumbing and in the filter(s). The oil will no draw back into the oil pan. Hence..."priming the system with oil" via turning the engine over and/or running the car for a bit will not give false readings. IMO
 
YP5 Toronto said:
Oil will reside in the plumbing and in the filter(s). The oil will no draw back into the oil pan. Hence..."priming the system with oil" via turning the engine over and/or running the car for a bit will not give false readings. IMO
if it doesnt drain into the oil pan, how can you ensure all oil is drained during an oilchange??
 
when you do your oil change....you usually change your filters...and the amount of oil within the tubing and various additions to the setup is quite small and marginal. If you really wanted to...you could drain the oil...let it settle...then crank the engine over a few times (with the fuel injectors disabled) and this would assist in clearing out the remaining oil.
 

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