No Crank, No Start, Help Please!

[nyyankees2k3]

If your engine doesn't turn over then coils have nothing to do with your problem.

Tr switches have a tendency to wear out intermittently...
Yours died all of a sudden...

That leads me to think that he shifter cable may have fallen off or broken.. (unless the physical contact inside the switch just fell apart)

Hmm Okay, I might try then.. I just didn't understand the whole aligning of the TR switch.

Where is the shifter cable?

 

[pcb]

http://web.archive.org/web/20050227015339/http://protege5.ugly.net:80/05-18.PDF

Read through the two chapters to familiarize yourself with it then see what's under your car. (I've never seen it... my car's a manual.)

 

[pasadena_commut]

No it doesn't. I turn the key, dash comes on, nothing starts, no noise at all. I think I'll hear the starter relay click or something, but there are no sound.

Bad starter motor? We had an Accord starter fail with exactly the same symptoms.

 

[pcb]

6) The next thing I will try to do on Thursday will be, new ignition coil's and new a new starter relay just in case. Even though I tested it and heard click noise.!

When you say starter relay, do you mean this ???

Part #3 ??
The big ass solenoid on top of the starter motor ??
I'm having a hard time finding "starter relay" in the manual...

 

[pcb]

Bad starter motor? We had an Accord starter fail with exactly the same symptoms.

Apparently it's brand new...

 

[pcb]

K... So if this was my car, and it suddenly wouldn't start and I had an automatic (Eeeeeeww)...

I would trace the wire from the starter motor..

The B/Y wire should be +12 V with the key in start position.

Follow that to the B/Y wire coming out of the Transaxle Range switch and check for +12 V...

Then I would check for +12 V going INTO the TR switch on the B/L wire.. (start wire from the ignition switch).

Depending on where the +12 V stops, you can find the problem and eliminate many possible parts replacements.

Your problem may be simply a bad connection or break along that wire.

If you've got+12 V going into your TR switch but not coming out (in P or N) then your TR Switch is faulty.


REMEMBER !!! This is only if I had an Automatic... Which I do not... Eeeeeww.

 

[pcb]

 

[nyyankees2k3]

When you say starter relay, do you mean this ???

Part #3 ??
The big ass solenoid on top of the starter motor ??
I'm having a hard time finding "starter relay" in the manual...

Sorry I used wrong term. I meant the starter relay switch, like the big one in the fuse box, I thought that's what its called.

But another update...

I replaced the neutral safety switch.. still doesn't start. So I have done replaced the starter motor/solenoid, the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch.

So after I replace that fuse tomorrow, pretty sure I'll be taking it to mechanic.. don't know what the hell else is wrong.

 

[pcb]

So after I replace that fuse tomorrow, pretty sure I'll be taking it to mechanic.. don't know what the hell else is wrong.

You may want to take it to a Mazda mechanic...

They may charge more but they may know exactly what's wrong and how to fix it.

Or show him this thread to give him a head start.

 

[pcb]

... I meant the starter relay switch, like the big one in the fuse box, I thought that's what its called...

I'm still not seeing it ???

I did hear a relay clicking when I turned my key to start without the clutch depressed but it was from the right side of the passenger foot well..

 

[nyyankees2k3]

I'm still not seeing it ???

I did hear a relay clicking when I turned my key to start without the clutch depressed but it was from the right side of the passenger foot well..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ8fYHj8cQE&t=472s

check that out.. at 2:10

 

[pcb]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ8fYHj8cQE&t=472s

check that out.. at 2:10

Cool.. I checked out the video.. Then went and took a picture of my car...

Then I took a picture from my new wiring diagram manual...

The relay he pulled was #32... The fuel pump relay...

A bad fuel pump relay wills prevent your car from running but Not stop your car from cranking...(smoke)

 

[pcb]

PS..
Right at 2:10 he mentions the 100 Amp main fuse..

That damn thing bolts in..
You have to unbolt the entire fusebox, lift it up, unbolt the burnt fuse and bolt in a new one...
What a PITA...
I've blown it twice...

 

[pcb]

Remember...

You're talking about a car that doesn't even crank...

Not a car that won't run...

I personally would do what the FSM Says to do about it...

 

[pcb]

"Open starter circuit between ignition key and starter"

Check for a broken/disconnected/bad connected wire...
Trace the TR switch for continuity.

 

[nyyankees2k3]

PS..
Right at 2:10 he mentions the 100 Amp main fuse..

That damn thing bolts in..
You have to unbolt the entire fusebox, lift it up, unbolt the burnt fuse and bolt in a new one...
What a PITA...
I've blown it twice...

You are right.. that is fuel pump relay.. I got some miss information... Wait so this 100amp fuse.. I didn't check that... Will that prevent car from starting???? Thanks.

 

[nyyankees2k3]

So my last question.. where is the ingition relay or starter relay.. does this car have one?? I haven't checked those.. I got confused with that fuel pump relay.

 

[pcb]

.. Wait so this 100amp fuse.. I didn't check that... Will that prevent car from starting???? Thanks.

No... That fuse will prevent your car from doing anything.

It's like not having a battery...

 

[nyyankees2k3]

No... That fuse will prevent your car from doing anything.

It's like not having a battery...

What about the main relay?? I was doing some reading on that... Do you it's worth to try that before taking it in.. only $25 bucks.

 

[pcb]

... where is the ignition relay or starter relay.. does this car have one??

Not really... The closest thing is this...

It's the solenoid switch on top of your starter motor...
It's a big ass relay...