new system

jaysilv56

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2004 mazda 3i
i am replacing the system i had in my car and without spending too much money i am leaning towards 2 kicker comp cvr12 subs dvc 4 ohm (800 max/400 rms per sub) and a kicker zx750.1 class d amp.....does this sound like a good setup....and if not, do ya have any suggestions????

thanks
 
It's probly just me, but i've never heard a 12 inch sub that I really liked. Just something about the tone. I love the way 15's sound, and if I didn't want to go that big I'd get some 10's. Of course it's been a very long time since I've heard any 12 inch subs, and it may have been other factors with the 12's I've heard.

Have you upgraded any of the other speakers to go along with the subs? Get you some highs to go with those lows. :)

Also have you ever looked into any of the MA Audio stuff? I've been a huge fan of their stuff for quite a while.
 
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right now i have a pair of dub edition 300w rms 12's with a 400w rms amp and it sounds ok but i wanna upgrade...ya think a pair of 10's with a good amp would hit harder than the 12's???
 
Why are you running 2 DVC subs? You will be at 1 Ohm if you run both voice coils on both subs, which will most likely fry the amp eventually or cause it to go into protect mode. If I were you, get 2 4 Ohm SVC subs or just one 4 Ohm DVC. Probably much more economical to get just one anyway; you really do not get much more output with 2, just waste a lot of space (and money).

I would also upgrade stock speakers as the previous poster stated to blend better. What are you going to use for crossovers on the door speakers to filter out the lows?
 
right now i have a pair of dub edition 300w rms 12's with a 400w rms amp and it sounds ok but i wanna upgrade...ya think a pair of 10's with a good amp would hit harder than the 12's???

For the most part, no. I don't think a pair of 10's would thump harder than 12's. I personally just think the tone is better from a 10. However I suppose if you were to get some 10's with very high excursion they could thump harder than 12's with lower excursion. Check these out though, they make them in 10's 12's and 15's. I guess if you're goin from price, i'd stick with 12's so you can use your same box.

http://www.maaudio.com/product.jhtm?id=74&cid=16

You can get those on cardiscountstereos.com for $55, you may be able to find a better deal somewhere else though.
 
Why are you running 2 DVC subs? You will be at 1 Ohm if you run both voice coils on both subs, which will most likely fry the amp eventually or cause it to go into protect mode. If I were you, get 2 4 Ohm SVC subs or just one 4 Ohm DVC. Probably much more economical to get just one anyway; you really do not get much more output with 2, just waste a lot of space (and money).

I would also upgrade stock speakers as the previous poster stated to blend better. What are you going to use for crossovers on the door speakers to filter out the lows?

Not if you run the voice coils on each speaker in series, and run the two speakers in parallel to the amp. Say you have 4ohm VC's, run them in series and you have an 8ohm speaker. Then run the two speakers in parallel and that takes you back down to 4ohm total on the amp.
 
That is true, but kind of defeats purpose of DVC. May as well just get two 8 Ohm woofers and run in parallel. Not trying to argue, I just think sometimes the concept of DVC gets confusing, or overlooked, by some people. I know when I got into car audio, I had no concept of what DVC meant. But you are entirely correct, lots of options with DVC subs, which is cool.

I re-read my post, and I guess what I am trying to say is that there is not much need for DVC subs when using 2 subs as impedence can be changed easily just with wiring (ie. 2 4 Ohm = 2 Ohm, etc.). Unless you are running 3 or more which gets very complicated or you have an amp that can only run at 4 Ohm or above or something like that. I do like the flexibility of one DVC sub though (ie. run a 2 channel amp to each voice coil, or run one monoblock at two Ohms or 4 Ohms.)
 
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That is true, but kind of defeats purpose of DVC. May as well just get two 8 Ohm woofers and run in parallel. Not trying to argue, I just think sometimes the concept of DVC gets confusing, or overlooked, by some people. I know when I got into car audio, I had no concept of what DVC meant. But you are entirely correct, lots of options with DVC subs, which is cool.

Yea I hear ya. The main advantage that I've seen personally with my out of warranty subs is one voicecoil would blow, but I'd still be able to run the speaker off 1 voicecoil. Sure it messes with the impedence slightly running it like that, but not a big deal imo.

Edit: In response to your edit, I actually prefer to have DVC subs when running two subs so I can run them bridged with 4ohms. All the amps I've owned like to see the 4 ohms and running the subs bridged always put a good bit more kick in them for me.
 
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i liked the idea of dvc cause you have many variations that you can in changing the impedence, so then you can get almost any kind of amp and match the ohms for the best sound...
 
Why are you running 2 DVC subs? You will be at 1 Ohm if you run both voice coils on both subs, which will most likely fry the amp eventually or cause it to go into protect mode. If I were you, get 2 4 Ohm SVC subs or just one 4 Ohm DVC. Probably much more economical to get just one anyway; you really do not get much more output with 2, just waste a lot of space (and money).

I would also upgrade stock speakers as the previous poster stated to blend better. What are you going to use for crossovers on the door speakers to filter out the lows?

Good point. The kicker zx750.1 is only 2-ohm stable. Find an amp that is 1-ohm stable and that config would work.

I would go the direction of sound-deadening and stock speaker replacement & amplification first. Then you may find that you only need 1 sub.
 
I had 2 12"comp vr dvc's in my truck. They are BAD ASS. alot of bang for your buck. make sure they are getting at least 300w RMS for them to sound good. and make sure to break them in!
 
Some 12's can sound great if they're in the right-sized box and getting enough power. If you want the compvr's get the 2ohm versions (each sub's coils wired series for 4ohms, both subs paralleled) so that you can run that amp at 2 ohms and get it's maximum power. But if you're going to add two 12's running 750 watts without touching the rest of the system it's going to sound like crap no matter what subs you have, both factory systems are under-powered and sound like ass to begin with, drowning them out with bass won't help.
 
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