New member, looking at an '02 P5 M5. Test drove it; some issues

QCGoose

Member
Hey everyone. Chris here from Davenport, IA.

I'm looking at a black '02 P5 manual at a local dealer and I was wondering if you guys could give me some insight. It's got 94k miles and they're asking well under NADA "excellent" value (rare for this area). An immediate red flag IMO, but the AutoCheck report was clear of any issues and it's been a local car since new with 2 previous owners.

The overall condition of the exterior was fair (some chips, scratches, dings, etc). The paint on the factory wheels is bubbling and peeling pretty badly. The interior was clean other than a tear in the carpet by the dead pedal. All electrics and HVAC worked fine. The sunroof tilts and closes fine, but when first opening to slide in, it sticks and pops against the roof before coming down and then into the car, almost like it's trying to slide inward before it completely tilts down away from the roof. A common issue?

Anyways, the biggest issue was the front end. The car started right up and seemed to idle fine. But while driving it, the front end was very floaty and just felt disconnected. Shot struts, I'm assuming. But also, while going over bumps especially with the wheel cranked in either direction, the car made some awful crunching and grinding noises. Same when driving straight down the road but hitting bumps and rough patches. Also, while encountering bumps/holes, etc especially on the highway, instead of driving straight over them, it felt like the wheels just wanted to be ripped away from the car in either direction. Still just struts?

And then, when coming out of a gear or just getting into a gear, when pulling away, basically when making the engine move in the engine bay other than just free-revving it, there were some squeeks and whatnot. Shot engine mounts? The one on the top/passenger side looked fine, but that's all I could tell. And I couldn't get underneath the car to feel or even see what all issues there might be with it (broken swaybar maybe, etc). It was raining/snowing and I didn't wanna be down there long.

Lastly, when going WOT and taking the engine through the upper half of the rev range, there was a very audible whistle-like sound, almost like a turbo. Obviously it isn't turbo'd, but that's what the sound reminded me of. What would that be? It also seemed to have a rough idle that developed. I thought maybe it started after I turned on the defrost/AC compressor, but after shutting them off it continued to idle a bit rough. Not dropping and raising revs, but vibrating quite noticeably throughout the cabin.

Sorry for the novel, but I really wanted this car to work out and was wondering if you guys encountered any of this before, or if these problems are singled out to just this particular P5 and perhaps I should just forget about the car. The salesman/manager said he has an appointment with a mechanic tomorrow, and that he'll let me know what they find/what they fix, but he hasn't driven the car yet so he isn't aware of the issues.

If they fix it, the price goes up to counter the repairs. If I buy it as-is, who knows what I could be dealing with. It may just be struts, or it may be a whole world of bank-draining headaches and nightmares.

If it weren't front any of these front end issues, I'd probably be finishing up the paperwork as I type this. But what would you do? Walk away, or let them fix it and try again?
 
Rough idle is common and easy to fix, the ride quality sounds like wore out struts and shocks...can get a complete OEM styl set off ebay for under $300. Like tweety said u could have a messed up sway bar, tow ends, bushings, etc....but nothing sounds to major or a deal breaker...maybe have them do a check and give u a list of what they think needs fixed? U would be able to do the repairs a LOT cheaper! Pkus u could try to talk them down even more on the price.;)
 
you didnt say what they were asking for it...anything can be fixed,,but its money...so if you are mechanically inclined and have tools, then maybe the price is worth the time and money you are going to have to put in it. dunno..

having said that, some things are much easier for the shade tree mechanic to repair than others...IE..suspension vs engine problems.. me personally, if there are issues, but the engine seems solid, then im much more comfortable tackling those repairs that dont involve jacking with the engine..as someone said, a rough idle isnt a big deal, but hesitation and other whistling sounds might indicate more complicated problems that you may not have the ability to fix on your own, which means you gotta take it some where..which means added cost..

the absolute safest thing you could do when you are interested in a car but think there may be some issues..is to have a mechanic perform a "buyers check" before you buy it. when i was shopping for a car, my bank had a recommended mechanic who performed buyers checks as a mobile service.. they will perform a thorough investigation of the vehicle and tell you exactly what it needs. the good thing is that the mechanic is not influenced by whether or not you buy the car..he is completely nuetral so unless you happen to get some lazy ass, then it should be to your benefit to get some clarity on the condition of the vehicle. so if its a car you really like, and you have patience but want to be careful then maybe you should consider that as an option...
 
Thanks for the replies guys. All points well taken and considered. Regardless of what they do with the car, I'd definitely have my own mechanic take a look at it. I have no problem doing basic maintenance and repairs, but when it comes to major or time-intensive projects, I'd just assume pay someone else to do it.

Also, they're asking $4995 for the car, and NADA "excellent" retail was something like $6200, which makes me believe they're aware of the issues with the front end, though the guy at least acted like he had no clue about them. Around here, if something lists for a certain amount on NADA or KBB, 99.99% of the time the dealer is gonna be asking well over that amount. Usually so much so that you almost feel like you're insulting them by mentioning what the book value of the car is, or that you shouldn't even bother wasting your time trying to get them to come down to reality. So the "deal" they're listing the car for makes me think they're aware of its issues.

BTW, here's the links for the car in question:

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=100&cardist=2&standard=false

http://www.zimmermanhonda.com/inven...sc=2002-Mazda-Protege5-&vin=JM1BJ245321457714

Thanks again for the replies and suggestions guys. Hopefully I'll end up being a full-time member here with a P5 of my own.
 
It looks pretty good. If I were you, i'd go for it. Dont know what kinda cars youve owned in the past, but P5's are really simple and easy to work on. Personally i'd stay away from mechs. They charge alot, screw stuff up, and take away valuable learning experiences. This forum can help you with anything you need. There arent really any time-intensive projects for these cars other than a rebuild, which at 94K, i doubt you would need to do for a really long time. Most regular maintenance is pretty simple. When I got mine it was at 128K and was previously driven pretty hard, so it was pretty rough. I've done all the work myself, and i'm just a kid, so if i can figure all this stuff out, you will have no problems.
 
As far as the whistle goes. When I take the revs to 4k and up I have a whistle too, I believe it is because my car does not have the air snorkle that goes above the radiator. If the deal sounds good, go for it. Issues can be delt with and I doubt there are any serious issues.
 
KBB on my '02 P5 manual at 98K miles was $4500. I talked the guy down to $3700 and paid cash. Best day of my life
 
I gave 5400 for mine after tax, title, and dealer document fee of $250. The document fee was only to register the car and apply for the title, I am sorry but that should be in the price. I let myself get screwed into it though so it's on me. If you go for it, work the deal so that those things will be in the total price and you won't have that rode hard and put away wet feeling.
 

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