Need some final turbo advice.

[TheDirtyGoatee]

Ok so I am getting sick and tired of worrying about my turbo. My check engine light keeps clicking on because of it and I wanna get it fixed, however, I am getting all sorts of mixed signals and answers and I don't know what to do.

I am obviously leaning toward stock with a front mount intercooler. However, I was talking with some folks about you can get turbos with smaller cold sides and bigger hot sides or visa versa?

I mean, I understand that if I want to up the psi, I need to have a renforced block or something? Someone also said high miles and high psi are dangerous?

Lastly, I think the folks at Sutherlin Mazda are pretty *&%$!-ing dumb. They claimed the wastegate is broken, the turbo and the WG are attached, therefore the turbo is useless? Is this correct or could this all be just a simple 70 dollar actuator fix?(smash)

 

[camerazn]

Aside from a sporadic CEL, what are the rest of your symptoms (sorry if I'm not paying attention somewhere else)? What code is your ECU throwing?


VVV Seconded. Take the car to Advance and have them scan your ODBII codes.

 

[mspHtown]

Ok so I am getting sick and tired of worrying about my turbo. My check engine light keeps clicking on because of it and I wanna get it fixed, however, I am getting all sorts of mixed signals and answers and I don't know what to do.

I am obviously leaning toward stock with a front mount intercooler. However, I was talking with some folks about you can get turbos with smaller cold sides and bigger hot sides or visa versa?

I mean, I understand that if I want to up the psi, I need to have a renforced block or something? Someone also said high miles and high psi are dangerous?

Lastly, I think the folks at Sutherlin Mazda are pretty *&%$!-ing dumb. They claimed the wastegate is broken, the turbo and the WG are attached, therefore the turbo is useless? Is this correct or could this all be just a simple 70 dollar actuator fix?(smash)

well first off, why dont you get the cel scanned and see what it is. then go from there. what are you asking about the different turbo options? do you want something different or are you asking what will fit if you need a replacement turbo? do you have a boost gauge? the wastegate diaphragm tends to tear on the stock unit so yes its possible yours could be ****** up as well. you can get a replacement for it for 60-70 bucks but i dont know if yours is torn or not. what other symptoms does your car have? i would recommend staying out of boost until you get the problem resolved if its in fact turbo related.

 

[Velocifero]

Follow your WGA vac line up to where it tees. sperate that and blow into it, if air moves freely then the diaphram is torn.

 

[TheDirtyGoatee]

Well a few other symptoms (which may be unrelated) but when I pull to a stop, sometimes it'll idle at 1 grand plus a little and then go below 1 grand. There aren't many symptoms though. However, when the check engine light is NOT on, and I get on it, I can hear the spooling and then a release but I don't feel the power I think should be there. Perhaps, the next time I can make it to bowling, I can get another MSP owner to drive it and check it. That's some more info though.

About the vac line, when I get a chance to take it to my bud's, I'll try that. Would removing the front bumper be in order to do so?

 

[aMaff]

if it were the wastegate actuator, you *should* be feeling a lot MORE power than expected due to overboosting. Ask Scott what 19psi feels like on an engine with rubber rods

 

[Shadow102]

its very likly the WGA is in fact bad. Its a very common problem. ATP makes an excelent replacement for it. I cant think of any CEL the turbo would cause so i highly suggest you get that checked as well to see whats wrong.

The turbo and WGA are in fact attached but two bolts and a clip and the two seperate...its just a matter of getting to them. Scott has replaced his and can walk you through the removal.

Also turbo replacement and intercooler options are dependent on your HP goals later on

 

[Velocifero]

if it were the wastegate actuator, you *should* be feeling a lot MORE power than expected due to overboosting. Ask Scott what 19psi feels like on an engine with rubber rods

felt the same as 19psi on forged rods.

 

[JITB]

felt the same as 19psi on forged rods.

(enguard)

 

[camerazn]

felt the same as 19psi on forged rods.

It should probably feel a hair more powerful (rubber rods are lighter and leech less power). That is, right up until s*** explodes.

 

[Shadow102]

dont suppose either of you has held and forged piece before? it is usually lighter than a stock rod due to the materials its made out of

 

[Velocifero]

dont suppose either of you has held and forged piece before? it is usually lighter than a stock rod due to the materials its made out of

my thoughts. Especially those ones Arthur has sitting out from muscle drag cars those things wieghed nothing.

 

[Shadow102]

yeah due to being made of certain alloys and being forged instead of cast they get pretty light

 

[TheDirtyGoatee]

So back to the topic. Like I said, I don't know if I trust Sutherlin but the guy told me that regardless I would be fine driving it without a problem. I guess the turbos have a failsafe or something? I don't know. What I don't get (and this might just be because it's a V6 or because it's a VW, my buddy says he runs 14 psi daily and about 20 psi on the tracks.

So basically, I just better replace the turbo to be safe.

And about the FMI, there aren't many plans on hp gain in the future. I determined I will keep the MSP as a daily driver and almost stock to keep it's value even remotely up. So that means, I am gonna have one hell of a sleeper when I start modding my Colt Vista.

 

[B1GHAM]

So basically, I just better replace the turbo to be safe.

ummm.... what?

no one said to replace the turbo "to be safe". The reality of it is - until you get that code read, we cant give you anything for certain. HOWEVER - I would put my bets highly on the fact that it is the waste gate actuator and NOT the turbo. the wastegate actuator is a piece that is attached (and removable) to the turbocharger that controls the internal wastegate.

The wastegate actuator has a diaphram who's sole intent is to keep an airtight seal and "pop" up and move the WGA rod when a certain pressure is acheived (5-6psi stock). The diaphram in our vehicles has been known to wear over time causing either a tear in the diaphram, limited movement, or causing the diaphram to get "stuck" in an open position.

I shouldnt have to but let me do the math for you. ASSUMING YOU DONT LET THE DEALERSHIP REPLACE EITHER THE TURBO OR THE WASTEGATE ACTUATOR. gt25r ballbearing turbo ~ $900 (new). WGA replacement for gt25r turbo (s13 silvia, msp) = 69.95 (new from ATP).

I dont know about you, but Id rather get the obdII code read for free at autozone, consult here and replace the diaphram. Worst case scenario - you find out it was the turbo (turbo failures on the MSP are uncommon) and you wasted $70. ALOT better than wasting $900.

IF I WERE YOU: Get the code read, conditions of the vehicle (mileage, any mods, etc), and description of driving issues (you didnt really say much to go on, I could name 3 different problems not related to the actual turbo based on your description). We should be able to track it down pretty well. Also, youre in georgia - tons of info-soaked MSPers in the area that are able to physically help.

 

[mspHtown]

So back to the topic. Like I said, I don't know if I trust Sutherlin but the guy told me that regardless I would be fine driving it without a problem. I guess the turbos have a failsafe or something? I don't know. What I don't get (and this might just be because it's a V6 or because it's a VW, my buddy says he runs 14 psi daily and about 20 psi on the tracks.

So basically, I just better replace the turbo to be safe.

And about the FMI, there aren't many plans on hp gain in the future. I determined I will keep the MSP as a daily driver and almost stock to keep it's value even remotely up. So that means, I am gonna have one hell of a sleeper when I start modding my Colt Vista.

who cares what psi ur buddy can run in his VW. this is an entirely different engine with entirely different internals. the FSDE is from a regular econobox protege. i would suggest for you to keep it at stock boost. again, you do not need to replace the turbo if the wastegate is bad. you can buy a replacement for 60 bucks. go check if it is torn. if it is, then that is your problem. also, if it is torn, then the mazda tech is an idiot. you could be severly overboosting and the FSDE will let go. be extremely easy on the car till u find out what the problem is.

 

[bazooka joe]

as said elsewhere in the thread..start with getting the codes read!!(yes)

 

[TheDirtyGoatee]

Ok ok ok guys... I get the point. I'll stop by AZ on the way back from work tomorrow. It is on the way. I apologize for being such a whiney b****. I should be pimp-slapped. In either case, I'll get those codes. Then, hopefully you guys can give me your insight.

 

[TheDirtyGoatee]

OBD Codes

So I went to AZ on the way home like I said I would and here are the TWO codes that came up.

The first one is the one I had last time, P2006.
---Definition: Variable tumble control system (VTCS)- Shutter valve stuck closed.
--Probable causes
1. Check and repair other codes first.
2. Disconnected or damaged vacuum hose.
3. Binding VTC actuator
4. VTC solenoid malfunction

The Second code is a P0171.
"OEM Brand OBDII"

"The PCM has determined that during testing, the fuel system for bank 1 was too lean. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)"



Thats everything the ticket says that they printed. So... any thoughts?

 

[Jackelope]

P0171 - IIRC, thats probably the front O2 sensor (i had that code before)