NEED HELP finding FRONT wheel hub assembly with NO ABS for '03 Protege5

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mattzerstoren

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2003 Mazda Protege5
Hi all,

I'm new here and this is my first post. I've been lurking for a while now...I love the site and I appreciate all of the knowledge and help I've gained from this site already!

That being said, I'm looking for a wheel hub assembly for the FRONT of my 2003 P5 which has NO ABS. I haven't had any luck finding one? I'm looking to replace both wheel bearings and hubs on the front end, hence my search for the wheel hub assembly.

Also, am I correct in thinking the wheel hub assembly will come with a new wheel bearing already pressed into the wheel hub? That's half the battle here and part of the reason why purchasing the whole assembly is so appealing. I already want to replace both the wheel hub/bearing on each side and I'm thinking I can do this with the wheel hub assembly and avoid having the bearings pressed altogether...is this correct? Or does the assembly kit simply come with the bearing separately included, thus needing to be pressed in before installation into the knuckle?

Any info on where to find the assembly and whether or not I need to have the bearings pressed once I receive the assembly would be much appreciated! The main problem I'm having is finding a wheel hub assembly for the FRONT with NO ABS.

Thanks in advance!
 
mattzerstoren said:
Also, am I correct in thinking the wheel hub assembly will come with a new wheel bearing already pressed into the wheel hub? That's half the battle here and part of the reason why purchasing the whole assembly is so appealing. I already want to replace both the wheel hub/bearing on each side and I'm thinking I can do this with the wheel hub assembly and avoid having the bearings pressed altogether...is this correct?
Click to expand...

No... Your only option would be to get an entire knuckle with bearing and hub installed and that isn't really available... Knuckles are reused and really expensive (and don't come with everything installed).

The hub too is reused unless it's all bashed up... They aren't too expensive.





The bearing needs to be installed in the knuckle before the hub is installed in the bearing mostly so the pressure of pushing is on the outer race of the bearing...
If you were to push the bearing into the knuckle by pushing on the hub you would wreck the bearing. (even some machine shops have pushed it together wrong and wrecked the bearing).
Then the axle feeds through the hub and is bolted on...

So... Either way you can't avoid the labor and that can be a huge PITA..


PS... This is the rear bearing/hub assembly and it does come with the bearing and toothed ring preinstalled.



The toothed ring for the front is located on the axle so ABS has nothing to do with the front bearings... The ABS sensor bolts to the knuckle but all knuckles have at threaded hole for it.

 
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^^what pcb said.

if its the bearing your trying to replace by just swapping the entire thing out, well for the front its not possible for this car. What your looking for doesn't exist, its just the design. you have to find a press and get the bearing out. Not that bad of a job except that the axles like the seize in the hub.

If for some reason your knuckle is damaged and need the entire thing, used market is the way to, the classified section here is your friend.
 
@pcb @ap123 - thanks for your replies! My eyes have been opened! haha.

Wow, was I way off...I'm not sure why I had it stuck in my head that the assembly came all put together...wishful thinking on my end. After watching a few videos and looking at some diagrams, what y'all said makes absolute sense! Thanks!

That leaves me with a few questions:

1. Is the assembly just a possibly cheaper way to purchase the hub/bearing/axel nut/retainer all in one purchase? I'm just curious, for my knowledge.

2a. So the bearings need to be pressed, is there a certain way they need to be pressed or put in that I need to be aware of?
2b. Also, is there a seal replacement I need to worry about?

3. I want to replace the damaged hubs as well...I'm also replacing my cv axles and lower control arms...I think I should go ahead and replace the axel nut and retainer, correct?

4. Should I replace the tie rod ends at this point? Or what should I look for to determine if the tie rod ends are damaged?

Long story short, this car was in a wreck on the front end that caused the need for these repairs. I don't mind doing the repairs, as my P5 only has 104K on the engine and it runs smooth as butter, so I see it as an investment. My goal here is just to make sure I fix everything that needs to be fixed in order for some smooth sailing for years to come.

Thanks in advance for your replies/help!
 
mattzerstoren said:
@pcb @ap123 - thanks for your replies! My eyes have been opened! haha.

Wow, was I way off...I'm not sure why I had it stuck in my head that the assembly came all put together...wishful thinking on my end. After watching a few videos and looking at some diagrams, what y'all said makes absolute sense! Thanks!

That leaves me with a few questions:

1. Is the assembly just a possibly cheaper way to purchase the hub/bearing/axel nut/retainer all in one purchase? I'm just curious, for my knowledge.

2a. So the bearings need to be pressed, is there a certain way they need to be pressed or put in that I need to be aware of?
2b. Also, is there a seal replacement I need to worry about?

3. I want to replace the damaged hubs as well...I'm also replacing my cv axles and lower control arms...I think I should go ahead and replace the axel nut and retainer, correct?

4. Should I replace the tie rod ends at this point? Or what should I look for to determine if the tie rod ends are damaged?

Long story short, this car was in a wreck on the front end that caused the need for these repairs. I don't mind doing the repairs, as my P5 only has 104K on the engine and it runs smooth as butter, so I see it as an investment. My goal here is just to make sure I fix everything that needs to be fixed in order for some smooth sailing for years to come.

Thanks in advance for your replies/help!
Click to expand...

1. There is no assembly available.

2. Once you have the knuckle removed, you pull the snap ring, press out the hub, then press the bearing out by pushing on the exposed inner race. You press the new bearing in using the outer race only, and you install the hub by pushing on the inner race. It'll make more sense when you get it apart. After you get it apart, there will be half of the split inner race still on the hub, which can either be cut off with a dremel, or pressed off with a bearing splitter. There is a thread on here that explains the bearing seal situation.

3. Most new axles include a new nut and washer. Get Cardone Select axles from Rockauto.. Parts store remans are garbage.

4. Replace them if the boots are torn or they are loose.
 
@MrGiggles @pcb - thanks for your replies!

1. So, the question still remains...does it matter which directions the bearings are pressed in? Or, will it be obvious once I have the knuckle and all taken apart?

2. I did some research on the forum and read the opinions on whether or not to use a wheel seal vs. using the stock drain hole on the knuckle...does anyone have any further insight into this? Or can anyone give insight based on their experience or preference?

3. I will ensure to get some quality bearings...any recommendations?

4. Is the general consensus for cv axles to not go with AutoZone/Oreilly's brand? Should I go with those Cardone Select axles?

For the lower control arms, I'm going with the Hardrace LCA's. I don't mind spending the extra little bit on quality parts, I want to ensure that I'm getting quality that will last some time. I'm also debating getting a manual press from Harbor Freight or AutoZone and press the job myself...is this a bad idea? More PITA? I just want to make sure the bearings are done right!

THANK YOU!
 
mattzerstoren said:
@MrGiggles @pcb - thanks for your replies!

1. So, the question still remains...does it matter which directions the bearings are pressed in? Or, will it be obvious once I have the knuckle and all taken apart?

2. I did some research on the forum and read the opinions on whether or not to use a wheel seal vs. using the stock drain hole on the knuckle...does anyone have any further insight into this? Or can anyone give insight based on their experience or preference?

3. I will ensure to get some quality bearings...any recommendations?

4. Is the general consensus for cv axles to not go with AutoZone/Oreilly's brand? Should I go with those Cardone Select axles?

For the lower control arms, I'm going with the Hardrace LCA's. I don't mind spending the extra little bit on quality parts, I want to ensure that I'm getting quality that will last some time. I'm also debating getting a manual press from Harbor Freight or AutoZone and press the job myself...is this a bad idea? More PITA? I just want to make sure the bearings are done right!

THANK YOU!
Click to expand...

The bearings are not directional, same part for both sides. Direction doesn't matter.

I went with Timken bearings. Autozone carries them. I believe Orielly's and Advance carry National, which are pretty good as well. Rockauto has them all beat price wise though.

I omitted the wheel seal... There's no hard evidence around that proves adding one and sealing the hole makes them last considerably longer.

I have the older model 12 ton harbor freight press that has done several wheel bearings. I picked up one of their cheap 3/4" drive socket sets at the same time to use as dies in the press. Doesn't hurt to have some big tools around for those stubborn bolts either.

On two occasions I installed a pair of new Autozone axles and an Oreilly's reman, on different cars. Within 6 months all were snapping and popping during turns. I replaced them with Cardone, and the oldest is 3 years and still quiet.

The press will pay for itself the first time you use it. They have many uses.
 
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MrGiggles said:
The bearings are unidirectional, same part for both sides. Direction doesn't matter.
Click to expand...

I would have thought bidirectional or maybe ominidirectional if you were Drunkly and you installed them sideways ???

(PS... I am a little Drunkly and my car's burnin oil again !!!)

 
pcb said:
I would have thought bidirectional or maybe ominidirectional if you were Drunkly and you installed them sideways ???

(PS... I am a little Drunkly and my car's burnin oil again !!!)

Click to expand...

Haha, you're right, not the correct usage of that word.

I used to think oil burning was just a Honda trait.
 
@MrGiggles @pcb - thanks very much for your replies again!

I'm going with SKF wheel bearings (Part No. GRW237) and the Cardone Select axles. As for the wheel seal, I'm just going to replace whats currently on the car (whether seal or no seal), seeing as how the current situation has held up for roughly 12 years or so. I'm assuming there is no seal since the bearings have not needed repair since the car was manufactured (I bought the car from the original owner). We shall see!

I'll keep you all updated and report back with my experience on these repairs!

Thanks again for clearing some things up for me!
 
Well, I'm back, mere minutes after my last post haha.

I just need some help confirming that I'm purchasing the correct cv axles. I'm looking to purchase NEW Cardone Select cv axles...the part numbers I've found for the front left and front right are 66-8098 (front left) and 66-8099 (front right) - my only problem here is that it is not listed as to whether or not these new axles are for ABS or non-ABS application. I called the contact number on Cardone's Select website and the person on the line "helping" me was of little to no assistance at all. @MrGiggles - can you tell me the part numbers for the axles you ordered from Cardone Select? Or how did you find the right axles? If the axles have the ABS sensor ring, can it simply be removed for non-ABS application?

For reference, I have a 2003 Mazda Protege5, manual transmission, non-ABS vehicle.

Thank you in advance!
 
mattzerstoren said:
For reference, I have a 2003 Mazda Protege5, manual transmission, non-ABS vehicle.

Thank you in advance!
Click to expand...

The speed sensor ring doesn't matter... Just install the axles... the rings won't be in the way. (If they do come with rings)


BUT ... You do need to make sure you get the right axles.
One side is different for the manual transmission... ( I forget which side ??)

I have no idea why only one side is different and not both ???

Make sure this is clarified when you order...
(Some parts suppliers don't know this)
 
pcb said:
The speed sensor ring doesn't matter... Just install the axles... the rings won't be in the way. (If they do come with rings)


BUT ... You do need to make sure you get the right axles.
One side is different for the manual transmission... ( I forget which side ??)

I have no idea why only one side is different and not both ???

Make sure this is clarified when you order...
(Some parts suppliers don't know this)
Click to expand...

Thanks! And yes, the front LEFT axles were listed whether they were manual or auto (i.e. "Front Left MT" or "Front Left AT"), but the right side axle just said "front right" - so, that's a bit confusing. When clicking on the "see all vehicles this part fits" link, it shows that it fits the front right for a manual for '03 P5. Interesting...

These are the links to the cv axles I'm looking to get:

Front Left (66-8098):
https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pr...rotege5&year=2003&info=Front+Left:::w/M.T.:::

Front Right (66-8099):
https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pr...&model=Protege5&year=2003&info=Front+Right:::
 
For the front right, when clicking on the "see all vehicles this part fits" link, it shows that it fits the front right for a manual for '02-'03 P5 without MPS2 suspension (6 rows from top)? And then it just says front right for '02-'03 P5 (last row, 11 rows from top).

EDIT: I just noticed the last row (11 rows from the top) is the only one that lists a Protege5 as a fit. This row just says "front right" - wtf?
 
mattzerstoren said:
Thanks! And yes, the front LEFT axles were listed whether they were manual or auto (i.e. "Front Left MT" or "Front Left AT"), but the right side axle just said "front right" - so, that's a bit confusing. When clicking on the "see all vehicles this part fits" link, it shows that it fits the front right for a manual for '03 P5. Interesting...

These are the links to the cv axles I'm looking to get:

Front Left (66-8098):
https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pr...rotege5&year=2003&info=Front+Left:::w/M.T.:::

Front Right (66-8099):
https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pr...&model=Protege5&year=2003&info=Front+Right:::
Click to expand...

The reason for no differences listed for the right axles is because of the intermediate shaft that goes into trans and brackets to the engine
 
JDM323J48 said:
The reason for no differences listed for the right axles is because of the intermediate shaft that goes into trans and brackets to the engine
Click to expand...

@JDM323J48 - Ok, so does that mean the parts I listed are good for my vehicle? That the right axle is universal, more or less? I'm a bit confused and just trying to make sure I buy the correct parts. I'd hate to have everything taken apart, only to find I have the wrong axle on hand...

@MrGiggles - Can you tell me the part numbers of the axles you bought for your vehicle?

Thanks!
 
mattzerstoren said:
@JDM323J48 - Ok, so does that mean the parts I listed are good for my vehicle? That the right axle is universal, more or less? I'm a bit confused and just trying to make sure I buy the correct parts. I'd hate to have everything taken apart, only to find I have the wrong axle on hand...

@MrGiggles - Can you tell me the part numbers of the axles you bought for your vehicle?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

My P5 still has the stock axles, I used Cardone axles on the Camry that I used to have.

Rockauto shows 668099 (right side) and 668098 (left side), for a manual P5. The right side axle appears to be the same, auto or manual. Several manufacturers list the same part number for the right side, it can't be a misprint.
 
Here's what the book says...



















Why would Mazda upgrade only one side of the manual transmission ??

(the 1.8 litre ZM didn't need the upgrade but the 2.0 litre FS did ???)
 
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