I'm b., which also stands for broke (otherwise I'd be turbo'ed already), so no race for me. Mind you, had I not gone broke and had to sell the turbo kit, I'd probably have gone broke anyway after either blowing up the engine or gear box or both. Now I have discovered the joy and usefulness of high rpm (7,500 so far), and grown to love the nasty, grumpy idle noise. B also stands for bonehead, which I may be, for doing 7,500rpm every day with a stock engine. But man, the long suffering little FP just goes great up there. I want more!
NA Tech Race to 100whp per 1000cc's
- Thread starter LordWorm
- Start date
you're going to want as much displacement as you can get...so consider a built reco'd block from one of the AV's. Either way, an AV should be able to provide you with a used short block....either that or try some wrecking yards
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
used block built with stronger gear
thats the one
benefit of a build block: more bore, longer rods (if you specify that to whoever is buliding the engine) which is useful for more RPM, and higher comp pistons - as well as all the other goodies such as balancing, honing, blah blah blah....
A built block will give you the best foundation for a ballistic NA rebuild.
jimmysuite
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
this race is expensive......
- :
- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
Hows yours coming along.
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
jimmsuite had his pistons coated, just not sure what with.
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Car is back together and running on the MT but I have not done much work with the tune as of yet. I have tenatively planned on getting together with Turfburn from NSN the weekend of June 21st to work on the tune.
If all goes well my plan very soon after that is to get the car on a dyno, and get some vids posted.
I had my pistons coated locally with ceramic and molybdenum coatings.
benefits, less wear, reduced hot spots, longer part life, +100hp, -$100
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is there any other rods out there other than the Pauter Rods? theyre pretty expensive...i'm sure they all are...
would custom rods be more beneficial? and whats this about longer rods? do u think NA is the best build for AutoX? especially with a auto? im really hoping to get a tranny and ecu off a wrecked manual p5 if i can conjure up $1k within the next week
would custom rods be more beneficial? and whats this about longer rods? do u think NA is the best build for AutoX? especially with a auto? im really hoping to get a tranny and ecu off a wrecked manual p5 if i can conjure up $1k within the next week
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
haha suckers!!!! I was thinking about competing, but i will be to busy putting on my turbo kit!! haha
man i cant wait!!!
man i cant wait!!!
I don't know. A low-powered turbo might be better.
Even with manuals, you're limited by the loss of low-end torque on a gonzo build. What we're seeing in modifying this engine is that as soon as you really start pushing power levels (cams, pnp, high comp), you have to start deciding how much torque you want to give up for high rpm power.
Like LW says in the 100hp per 1000ccs race, revs revs revs... high revs will help you avoid the rpm hole in the 1st to 2nd shift on the autocross. But with an AT, I don't know how you can do this.
i have that sportAT where i can shift when i want but cant always downshift to 1st on low rpms... this is prolly not the best way too... too much strain on a tranny not meant for that stuff... thats why i baby it for like 3 weeks afterwards... then another AutoX event shows up...i have a 4-2-1 header now that gives me some torque to get to my higher rpms...
pauter rods might not be best for NA - they are stock length. RPM is what you want with an NA car so longer rods to curb the REDICULOUS piston acceleration would be what you want.
Check out some rods for other motors...i know at least 3 rods for other engines which will work, if appropriately modified.
you can make the sportsAT shift later, shift harder, and even (if you go stupid enough) shift on manual input ONLY... basically its all in the valve body... Drag racers have been using automatic transmissions for years, and have got them fully manualised so they shift ONLY when they are told to do so.
Check out some rods for other motors...i know at least 3 rods for other engines which will work, if appropriately modified.
you can make the sportsAT shift later, shift harder, and even (if you go stupid enough) shift on manual input ONLY... basically its all in the valve body... Drag racers have been using automatic transmissions for years, and have got them fully manualised so they shift ONLY when they are told to do so.
gottacatchup
Member
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- 2003 MP5
If you're building your car to autox you should read the rule book first and decide what class you're trying to compete in. Since you already have a 4-2-1 header I'm assuming you no longer have your first cat putting you in FSP. If thats the case go read XelderX's old P5 FSP build thread.
@LordWorm: RE: rods... what rods do you know of? Am looking for a cheap solution (because the rest of my build is expensive).
I know SR20DE rods fit, but my bud had a problem with the bearings. One of the guys thinks it's because they torqued them to FSDE specs, and not SR20 specs... opinions?
Because brand new SR20DE rods are a sight cheaper than importing aftermarket pieces.... and I could always check to see if SR18 or SR20VE rods can give us a better stroke.
EDIT: Oh, and SR20VE pistons... would make for a really incredible ghetto NA build if they fit correctly.
I know SR20DE rods fit, but my bud had a problem with the bearings. One of the guys thinks it's because they torqued them to FSDE specs, and not SR20 specs... opinions?
Because brand new SR20DE rods are a sight cheaper than importing aftermarket pieces.... and I could always check to see if SR18 or SR20VE rods can give us a better stroke.
EDIT: Oh, and SR20VE pistons... would make for a really incredible ghetto NA build if they fit correctly.
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