NA Tech Race to 100whp per 1000cc's

[BinoMP5]

the order of doign things isn't overly that critical, UNTIL you start playing with internals

if you do rods, you'll do your overboring, any crank modifications (if any), and your pistons all at once, to save tearing the thing down again.

You'll probably modify the oil pump too.

And you'd be advised to do your head work at the same time, although this is perhaps not as critical...

new valve body will tighten up your shifts, header/mid pipe will provide more horse power - both increase the fun factor... i say, flip a coin.

i'm gonna be doing a lot of drag and dyno after i get my header/HFCatMidpipe just to see where i am then go from there

i ran a 17.9 at the track with the stock tranny and only a CAI and CBE... i'm hoping the valve body will shorten my time because of the shifting... i want the rods cause i know i'll be redlining or even more(boom02)... im also going to go halfsies on slicks cuz my bro wants some too... so yea...

 

[LordWorm]

i'm gonna be doing a lot of drag and dyno after i get my header/HFCatMidpipe just to see where i am then go from there

i ran a 17.9 at the track with the stock tranny and only a CAI and CBE... i'm hoping the valve body will shorten my time because of the shifting... i want the rods cause i know i'll be redlining or even more(boom02)... im also going to go halfsies on slicks cuz my bro wants some too... so yea...

slicks will kill things... you'll need to launch very hard to get them to work (so you'll need a big high stall converter, possibly a transbrake) just to get the car off the line, else you'll bog.. That kind of shock load is going to tear your transmission to shreds....

i'd stick with drag radials, they'll help give you a nice consistant launch, but wont be so taxing on everythign else.

redlining wont hurt the thing - firstly, race the car in manual mode, secondly, remember that 6500rpm redline is pretty safe - i run mine to 7k rpm daily and i'm on stock rods. If you are going to do internals, build the WHOLE thing at once... rods, pistons, etc.....and get a management system to take advantage of it all...

 

[BinoMP5]

slicks will kill things... you'll need to launch very hard to get them to work (so you'll need a big high stall converter, possibly a transbrake) just to get the car off the line, else you'll bog.. That kind of shock load is going to tear your transmission to shreds....

i'd stick with drag radials, they'll help give you a nice consistant launch, but wont be so taxing on everythign else.

redlining wont hurt the thing - firstly, race the car in manual mode, secondly, remember that 6500rpm redline is pretty safe - i run mine to 7k rpm daily and i'm on stock rods. If you are going to do internals, build the WHOLE thing at once... rods, pistons, etc.....and get a management system to take advantage of it all...

okay cool... drag radials it is... i only redline or go to 7k at the track anyways...
as much as i want to go straight into internals i want to do everything i can with bolt-ons first... like after the I/H/E... i want to do the valve body and then the Medievel Pullies that someone here was advertising... internals is where its at though... that's where i'll get the biggest gains, so i'm hoping to save it for last... unless i get impatient

and is removing the VTCS from the IM a good step to add when i get my header/HFmidpipe combo? i live in central Florida... it doesnt snow or anywhere close... i hear the VTCS helps with cold start ups... it just gets humid here

 

[LordWorm]

okay cool... drag radials it is... i only redline or go to 7k at the track anyways...
as much as i want to go straight into internals i want to do everything i can with bolt-ons first... like after the I/H/E... i want to do the valve body and then the Medievel Pullies that someone here was advertising... internals is where its at though... that's where i'll get the biggest gains, so i'm hoping to save it for last... unless i get impatient

and is removing the VTCS from the IM a good step to add when i get my header/HFmidpipe combo? i live in central Florida... it doesnt snow or anywhere close... i hear the VTCS helps with cold start ups... it just gets humid here

the australian spec manifold doesn't have VTCS, and i've got a microtech and i have zero issues with cold starts - i've got more working against me than you, so you shouldn't have a problem - anything that makes the stock heap of sh!t manifold flow more is a good thing....and free mods kickass.

biggest gain you're going to get before internals is engine management - i can't stress that enough...the stock ECU really truely sucks for any sort of power.... until its changed, you wont see any astronomical NA gains.

 

[BinoMP5]

awesome!! looking up the how-to now!! this should give some high-end power

thnx for all ur quik replies!! i really really appreciate it

 

[DeadGeneration]

Where abouts in Florida? I am in the very similar boat as you? what time of the year did you run at the track. The weather is colder now and that's supposed to make for better times. I am going again soon.

 

[BinoMP5]

Where abouts in Florida? I am in the very similar boat as you? what time of the year did you run at the track. The weather is colder now and that's supposed to make for better times. I am going again soon.

i went in the mid of aug at gator raceway. i believe theyre open saturday mornings now for T&T til the end of feb

 

[speed5hornet]

sorry if this sounds like im braggin, or trying to put you down, trust me im not, but those times kinda are horrible. All i have for mods is listed in my sig, really only a header on you, the header back exhaust i did not have when i went to the track last and my fastest was a 16.598. And i doubt the header cut that much time. IDK did you have a bad starts etc. cause you should be gettin' faster times aka you feeling better/closer to your dream of a kick a$$ p5!

 

[niky]

I do believe he's running an AT... that could be bringing the times down... a bit... :lol:

 

[LordWorm]

I do believe he's running an AT... that could be bringing the times down... a bit... :lol:

yeah, a factory auto will be a slug on the quarter.

mods to an auto to make it shift harder/faster, and allow you to stall up before a launch will invariably make you go faster than a manual....

but stock sucks

 

[DeadGeneration]

And as I said before, weather conditions change things a lot lol

I am going again, but I was running a 17.2 on a MT in hot-ass Florida with 0 wind conditions.

This time, the weather will be cooler and the only modification I have changed is my midpipe from a hi-flow cat to a non-cat. With a tail wind I should be in the 16's easily.

Also, maybe your track is shorter than his? I know it's not supposed to be, or maybe the timing devices are different. There is no god of standards that makes everything perfect and right across the entire universe.

 

[LordWorm]

And as I said before, weather conditions change things a lot lol

I am going again, but I was running a 17.2 on a MT in hot-ass Florida with 0 wind conditions.

This time, the weather will be cooler and the only modification I have changed is my midpipe from a hi-flow cat to a non-cat. With a tail wind I should be in the 16's easily.

Also, maybe your track is shorter than his? I know it's not supposed to be, or maybe the timing devices are different. There is no god of standards that makes everything perfect and right across the entire universe.

if the track is approved by a governing body, its timing and length will be calibrated to within an inch of each other - there would be tollerences of course, but when records are being set, there needs to be a standard.

Weather conditions do have an effect, but its not HUGE.. difference between my day and night runs are marginal, and the weather at the track i run at shifts a lot... day times we can get up to 40 C in summer, and at night you're looking at under 20 C... difference is a tenth or so at the speeds i do...

 

[BinoMP5]

sorry if this sounds like im braggin, or trying to put you down, trust me im not, but those times kinda are horrible. All i have for mods is listed in my sig, really only a header on you, the header back exhaust i did not have when i went to the track last and my fastest was a 16.598. And i doubt the header cut that much time. IDK did you have a bad starts etc. cause you should be gettin' faster times aka you feeling better/closer to your dream of a kick a$$ p5!

no way i'm bragging.... i'm thinking of switching everythiing over to a manual MP5... after everything works out with the bank... 16.5 eh? sweet... a whole 1.4seconds off! then work on this 200whp race

 

[LordWorm]

no way i'm bragging.... i'm thinking of switching everythiing over to a manual MP5... after everything works out with the bank... 16.5 eh? sweet... a whole 1.4seconds off! then work on this 200whp race

i still maintain with the RIGHT automatic gearbox, you'll go faster with 200whp than with a manual.

My dedicated track car (which is a mitsubishi, and currently in the early design phases) is going to be an automatic transmission....granted an old school GM Turbo 400 box, fully manualised with transbrake.... BUT theres no way on earth i could get a simillarly strong manual box (say a supra turbo 5 speed box) and go anywhere near as quick as i could with an auto trans.

if going fast is what you want to do, look into hardening your auto, getting a valve body that will shift like a mofo, a transbrake and a big fat stall converter.....you'll pull 60 foot times the turbo guys would envy

 

[BinoMP5]

i still maintain with the RIGHT automatic gearbox, you'll go faster with 200whp than with a manual.

My dedicated track car (which is a mitsubishi, and currently in the early design phases) is going to be an automatic transmission....granted an old school GM Turbo 400 box, fully manualised with transbrake.... BUT theres no way on earth i could get a simillarly strong manual box (say a supra turbo 5 speed box) and go anywhere near as quick as i could with an auto trans.

if going fast is what you want to do, look into hardening your auto, getting a valve body that will shift like a mofo, a transbrake and a big fat stall converter.....you'll pull 60 foot times the turbo guys would envy

hmm interesting... i know that a valve body would be the first thing i get for the tranny... i should prolly get that before my header... do you have the valve body upgrade? do you have any video of it... i really want to see a vid of a car with the valve body
or show me a link

 

[LordWorm]

hmm interesting... i know that a valve body would be the first thing i get for the tranny... i should prolly get that before my header... do you have the valve body upgrade? do you have any video of it... i really want to see a vid of a car with the valve body
or show me a link

I have a manual

i'm speaking purely from a racing point of view though. If my protege was a dedicated track car, i'd be going to some sort of fully manualised auto box, or a clutchless manual...

 

[GreyMan]

hmm interesting... i know that a valve body would be the first thing i get for the tranny... i should prolly get that before my header... do you have the valve body upgrade? do you have any video of it... i really want to see a vid of a car with the valve body
or show me a link

Check this thread out. It is an auto turbo thread but there is alot of info regarding what to buy and where to buy for beefing up the auto tranny, especially on page 2.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123673640

 

[BinoMP5]

Check this thread out. It is an auto turbo thread but there is alot of info regarding what to buy and where to buy for beefing up the auto tranny, especially on page 2.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123673640

awesome! this is really helpful guys! so is tranny more important right now before i get my header/midpipe?

 

[LordWorm]

awesome! this is really helpful guys! so is tranny more important right now before i get my header/midpipe?

doubt you'll break the tranny with a header/mid pipe....

but if you're going to try and push enormous horse power through it, you should look at upgrading. If you intend on running some insane quartermile times, you should look at upgrading

where you do the upgrade in the scheme of things isn't that important...i'd do the header/mid pipe first so you increase the fun factor, and look at the tranny when you have a large wad of spare cash, and time to keep the car off the road while the work is done

 

[BinoMP5]

i'll just use my bro's car, which is technically mine, when the transmission work is getting done, so no problem there

i know i want to decrease my drag time asap... i gotta keep up with all my other friends... i seem to be representing Mazda... man... i need to get a MazdaSpeed
but until then!!!