starscream2k1
Member
- :
- 2007 CWP Mazdaspeed3
Original Tuning - (August 21/22 2008)
Heres my comments/information about that (this is taken from my native forum that I am on TOProtege (Mostly for people around Toronto Canada).
Went to DL Motorsports and had Mike Diel do the tuning for me. Hes a authorized unichip tuner. This was done last year in August.
Got to Mikes in the evening and he was finishing up a Mustang tune and waited around, got food and everything in anticipation for my session to begin. Once i got in for tuning it was gonna be a funnnn ride! lol
Highlights:
- Made 52hp/39tq over stock
- at one point i boosted 15psi and basically crapped my pants for that split second
- AFRs were pretty darn good and drivablity is amazing on WOT and Part Throttle
- The unichip is actually a pretty good unit and can be tuned fairly easily by the tuner. Its not a POS as alot of people claim. The bigger issue is with the stock ECU and it trying to adjust itself in what it wants to do. Seems like we foundout where VICS/VTCS coding comes in on the ECU and that was a bit of a battle to get thru and smoothen out
- We went up to 1:15am tuning
- Didnt hit the 200whp that i wanted, but i got more pep/fun/reliability out of the car. Although Mike said i could hit 200 with more tuning and being a bit more ballsy, he and i both agree to tread on the safeside of the waters.
- Again 15psi on a stock block is scary for that split second
So all in all, she is what she is and for the most part I am pretty damn happy with it. For a stock block econo box its pretty fun and fast and pulls hard. I'll post up more pics and the videos later. Any questions or anything shoot them away!!!
STOCK DYNO (taken when I got the car):
MODDED/TUNED DYNO (taken after getting tuned):
LIST OF MODS (these are on the car right now, and were on when getting tuned):
The modded dyno, first run was with some fuel correction just to see where were hitting. The other run is the highest power the car made. We did make some adjustments after and i lost some hp to play it on the saferside. Mike thought he heard some ping, so we thought better play it safe on the stocker block.
AFTER Tuning I was searching around this site and just overall driving I had some concerns. (October 20 2008)
Ok... i am starting to think something is up with my msp, and my gut is telling me its the 626 intake manifold. I have recently seen a few MSP's dyno w/ less mods then me get close as my numbers, if not higher.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123723220
^^ thats one of the dudes, and hes pulling 200whp/tq on a dynojet as well.
I don't think the weather and the catless midpipe is making him get that much more WHP over me, especially when i have more mods then him. I do understand that i am not going for outright power, however i do feel that now seeing all this, she could have done better. I dont think this is a reflection on mike @ DL, his tuning is great. Again i think its either my 626 intake mani, or the fact that shes running close 160xxx kms. I dunno either way i am going to have to figure this s*** out.
Someone then posed a point that "Has the 626 been actually proven" to which this is what i said: (October 20 2008)
Yeah it has been proven by a few, but never on the same grounds. Theoretically there should be a gain in the upper end, but the lower end would suffer, to which i did the pullies to offset that difference by having a faster accelleration to get to the higher end.
There have been atleast 2 dynos that i have seen about the 626 intake mani that show increases.
However i am thinking to maybe try porting a stocker out and running that, maybe i'll be the first to test both on the same mods (i.e just change the manifold).
My gut is telling me that i'll have more of an increase with the stocker, BUT because of the unichip. I know the unichip/stock ecu is fighting with the manifold because of the butterflies in the middle of the manifold. So maybe by switching back w/ a ported one it will more closely beable to tune/run with it because it sees what it wants to (the stock butterflies in the middle opening, and then seeing the increase, over the 626 where it 'supposedly' opens but sees no durastic increase).
i dunno...gonna have to figure this out.
Then this is my update as of TODAY (March 20 2009):
This is whats been going through my head for all of winter. Trying to figure out how the ***k to gain some more power, and fix some of the blips in the car when driving and all that. Namely the 3500 RPM whacked out-feeling like hitting a wall-stumble! I think talking to a few tuners and even unichip themselves and finally got to speak to their tuning guy (dudes knows his s*** thats for sure) I have come to some options/conclusions as to what to do:
1) According to the unichip tuner the stock manifolds VTCS/VICS (the one in the middle of the manifold, I keep getting confused on the acronym for it) opens up at 3500RPM is activated by a solenoid/valve at the side. The solenoid is just a way for the ECU to know its been opened. The 626 intake manifold doesnt have that, and is probably adding to the issue of that. He says it CAN be tuned around, but the 2nd part is I need to pull more fuel out of that area since its pegged at that area. Hes told me there is a way to take out more fuel then the 50 points, and theres a setting in the unichip that we can make the 50 to basically 100 points which would be or rather should be enough to take out enough fuel to tune it and eliminate the hesitation/stumble along with tuning around the VTCS/VICS stuff. Additionally I have found some injectors that are drop into the protege that are 350cc so thats a nice middle between the 440s I have and the stock 280cc, if i have to swap.
2) Swap back to the stock injectors and leave the 626 intake manifold and that way I can eliminate the super rich condition. However is 280cc enough fuel for 10psi (spiking to 11/12psi at times)? I am not sure some say it is, some say it is not. I am more inclined to play it as safe as I can so unless someone has some good information or something i probably wont be going this way. But it is an option. (also maybe swap in the 350cc injectors if I have to (gotta buy them tho...if I do go that way and swap them in)).
3) Swap manifold back to the stocky with some porting and removing the butterfly plates at the end of the manifold (where it meets the head). And tune that with the 440s
4) Swap both manifold and injectors, but then again the issue of 280cc good for 10psi w/ 11/12psi spiking?
The overall issue with manifold i am not too worried about because if i have to swap back to the stocky I dont mind to do so. Just time and a few bucks for gaskets outta my pocket. I like the upper RPM power the car has with the 626 but I DO miss my low end. So that is something i still gotta 100% decide as to what where i want my powerband. I find more in the winter that i am in the lower RPMs, and in these few days where we have had nice weather that i been in the upper RPMs soooo.
I am NOT inclined to get rid of the unichip because then I would endup spending MORE cash then I want to. Buying the ECU then installing it (which I might beable to do it myself depending on the complication of it, but I dont think it would be that bad) and then having it tuned again. And any other potential costs that go with all that. The car DOES run right now, and its pretty good. I mean the stumble/hesitation is bothersome at times, but its not like EVERY SINGLE TIME i drive i encounter. It depends on how I hit the pedal (pedal mashing, or easing on the pedal) and where the RPMs are that I get it or not. But I would like to have it cleared up and all that so I can have the most power and drivability outta the car after doing all the mods.
Thoughts? Comments? Advice/Help?
(I have removed some of the stuff because its not relevant, or i have canned the plans entirely (the Intake cam idea.... so hence i left that crap out)).
Heres my comments/information about that (this is taken from my native forum that I am on TOProtege (Mostly for people around Toronto Canada).
Went to DL Motorsports and had Mike Diel do the tuning for me. Hes a authorized unichip tuner. This was done last year in August.
Got to Mikes in the evening and he was finishing up a Mustang tune and waited around, got food and everything in anticipation for my session to begin. Once i got in for tuning it was gonna be a funnnn ride! lol
Highlights:
- Made 52hp/39tq over stock
- at one point i boosted 15psi and basically crapped my pants for that split second
- AFRs were pretty darn good and drivablity is amazing on WOT and Part Throttle
- The unichip is actually a pretty good unit and can be tuned fairly easily by the tuner. Its not a POS as alot of people claim. The bigger issue is with the stock ECU and it trying to adjust itself in what it wants to do. Seems like we foundout where VICS/VTCS coding comes in on the ECU and that was a bit of a battle to get thru and smoothen out
- We went up to 1:15am tuning
- Didnt hit the 200whp that i wanted, but i got more pep/fun/reliability out of the car. Although Mike said i could hit 200 with more tuning and being a bit more ballsy, he and i both agree to tread on the safeside of the waters.
- Again 15psi on a stock block is scary for that split second
So all in all, she is what she is and for the most part I am pretty damn happy with it. For a stock block econo box its pretty fun and fast and pulls hard. I'll post up more pics and the videos later. Any questions or anything shoot them away!!!
STOCK DYNO (taken when I got the car):
MODDED/TUNED DYNO (taken after getting tuned):
LIST OF MODS (these are on the car right now, and were on when getting tuned):
The modded dyno, first run was with some fuel correction just to see where were hitting. The other run is the highest power the car made. We did make some adjustments after and i lost some hp to play it on the saferside. Mike thought he heard some ping, so we thought better play it safe on the stocker block.
AFTER Tuning I was searching around this site and just overall driving I had some concerns. (October 20 2008)
Ok... i am starting to think something is up with my msp, and my gut is telling me its the 626 intake manifold. I have recently seen a few MSP's dyno w/ less mods then me get close as my numbers, if not higher.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123723220
^^ thats one of the dudes, and hes pulling 200whp/tq on a dynojet as well.
I don't think the weather and the catless midpipe is making him get that much more WHP over me, especially when i have more mods then him. I do understand that i am not going for outright power, however i do feel that now seeing all this, she could have done better. I dont think this is a reflection on mike @ DL, his tuning is great. Again i think its either my 626 intake mani, or the fact that shes running close 160xxx kms. I dunno either way i am going to have to figure this s*** out.
Someone then posed a point that "Has the 626 been actually proven" to which this is what i said: (October 20 2008)
Yeah it has been proven by a few, but never on the same grounds. Theoretically there should be a gain in the upper end, but the lower end would suffer, to which i did the pullies to offset that difference by having a faster accelleration to get to the higher end.
There have been atleast 2 dynos that i have seen about the 626 intake mani that show increases.
However i am thinking to maybe try porting a stocker out and running that, maybe i'll be the first to test both on the same mods (i.e just change the manifold).
My gut is telling me that i'll have more of an increase with the stocker, BUT because of the unichip. I know the unichip/stock ecu is fighting with the manifold because of the butterflies in the middle of the manifold. So maybe by switching back w/ a ported one it will more closely beable to tune/run with it because it sees what it wants to (the stock butterflies in the middle opening, and then seeing the increase, over the 626 where it 'supposedly' opens but sees no durastic increase).
i dunno...gonna have to figure this out.
Then this is my update as of TODAY (March 20 2009):
This is whats been going through my head for all of winter. Trying to figure out how the ***k to gain some more power, and fix some of the blips in the car when driving and all that. Namely the 3500 RPM whacked out-feeling like hitting a wall-stumble! I think talking to a few tuners and even unichip themselves and finally got to speak to their tuning guy (dudes knows his s*** thats for sure) I have come to some options/conclusions as to what to do:
1) According to the unichip tuner the stock manifolds VTCS/VICS (the one in the middle of the manifold, I keep getting confused on the acronym for it) opens up at 3500RPM is activated by a solenoid/valve at the side. The solenoid is just a way for the ECU to know its been opened. The 626 intake manifold doesnt have that, and is probably adding to the issue of that. He says it CAN be tuned around, but the 2nd part is I need to pull more fuel out of that area since its pegged at that area. Hes told me there is a way to take out more fuel then the 50 points, and theres a setting in the unichip that we can make the 50 to basically 100 points which would be or rather should be enough to take out enough fuel to tune it and eliminate the hesitation/stumble along with tuning around the VTCS/VICS stuff. Additionally I have found some injectors that are drop into the protege that are 350cc so thats a nice middle between the 440s I have and the stock 280cc, if i have to swap.
2) Swap back to the stock injectors and leave the 626 intake manifold and that way I can eliminate the super rich condition. However is 280cc enough fuel for 10psi (spiking to 11/12psi at times)? I am not sure some say it is, some say it is not. I am more inclined to play it as safe as I can so unless someone has some good information or something i probably wont be going this way. But it is an option. (also maybe swap in the 350cc injectors if I have to (gotta buy them tho...if I do go that way and swap them in)).
3) Swap manifold back to the stocky with some porting and removing the butterfly plates at the end of the manifold (where it meets the head). And tune that with the 440s
4) Swap both manifold and injectors, but then again the issue of 280cc good for 10psi w/ 11/12psi spiking?
The overall issue with manifold i am not too worried about because if i have to swap back to the stocky I dont mind to do so. Just time and a few bucks for gaskets outta my pocket. I like the upper RPM power the car has with the 626 but I DO miss my low end. So that is something i still gotta 100% decide as to what where i want my powerband. I find more in the winter that i am in the lower RPMs, and in these few days where we have had nice weather that i been in the upper RPMs soooo.
I am NOT inclined to get rid of the unichip because then I would endup spending MORE cash then I want to. Buying the ECU then installing it (which I might beable to do it myself depending on the complication of it, but I dont think it would be that bad) and then having it tuned again. And any other potential costs that go with all that. The car DOES run right now, and its pretty good. I mean the stumble/hesitation is bothersome at times, but its not like EVERY SINGLE TIME i drive i encounter. It depends on how I hit the pedal (pedal mashing, or easing on the pedal) and where the RPMs are that I get it or not. But I would like to have it cleared up and all that so I can have the most power and drivability outta the car after doing all the mods.
Thoughts? Comments? Advice/Help?
(I have removed some of the stuff because its not relevant, or i have canned the plans entirely (the Intake cam idea.... so hence i left that crap out)).
