So i recently bought a 2003 protege5 and it has a few bugs i gotta work out. First off the front driver side wheel bearing needs to be replaced i bought the bearing and was just wondering how easy will this be to install? Also the front driver side window wont work don't know why? Another thing is the ac pump has a small peice of metal rubbing against it so can i just bend it out of the way? This isnt my first car ive owned a 95 240sx, 94 trans am, 03 celica, but this is my first mazda so im trying to learn about the car the best i can. thanks
my new p5, common issues, easy fixes?
- Thread starter Arcs77
- Start date
window is easy as stated above carefully use a flat head screwdriver and pop the panel off. you have to pop the armrest cover on the door off and take off 2 phillips head screws to completely pop it off. but its a very simple and quick task. it may not be plugged in as mentioned above but it may also be a failed motor/regulator assembly (replace both even if just 1 or the other is bad) remember this car is used and 11 years old so it will have some failing parts especially because you dont know how previous owner treated it.
get a pic of the metal around the a/c compressor up for us and we can help you more on that one.
the bearing as stated above you need a shop press to do it, just be warned i just had my passenger side front done and the new wheel seal (which is a strongly recommended part to replace) can be (i used timken others may not be) just a little thicker than the old one was so it has been making a slight noise at very low speeds and i have crawled under and inspected both sides and its obvious its the seal as it juts out a bit further from the hub then the one on the side that was not needing the work. but this was about a month ago and it is slowly fading away as the seal shaves down to the right size. it was all the time under 20 i could hear it now its down to backing up and ocassionally forward while taking off.
get a pic of the metal around the a/c compressor up for us and we can help you more on that one.
the bearing as stated above you need a shop press to do it, just be warned i just had my passenger side front done and the new wheel seal (which is a strongly recommended part to replace) can be (i used timken others may not be) just a little thicker than the old one was so it has been making a slight noise at very low speeds and i have crawled under and inspected both sides and its obvious its the seal as it juts out a bit further from the hub then the one on the side that was not needing the work. but this was about a month ago and it is slowly fading away as the seal shaves down to the right size. it was all the time under 20 i could hear it now its down to backing up and ocassionally forward while taking off.
Thanks for all the suggestions, i had a local shop do the wheel bearing because my friend who had a press was busy at island dragway (not sure where u guys are from its a track in jersey) all weekend. Also a friend of mine checked out the window with his volt meter and it seems to need a new motor or regulator. now with those out of the way i have to replace the front right ball joint 
so i was wondering do i have to buy the whole control arm assembly or can i just buy the ball joint and how easy is this to do yourself???
so i was wondering do i have to buy the whole control arm assembly or can i just buy the ball joint and how easy is this to do yourself???MOOG Part # CK620072 & MOOG Part # CK620071
Those are the part numbers you need. The ball joint and control arm are sold as an assembly for these cars. The Moog products are about half as much as OEM mazda, and Moog is known for often improving on OE design specs. I don't use anything else for OE style suspension components.
Those are the part numbers you need. The ball joint and control arm are sold as an assembly for these cars. The Moog products are about half as much as OEM mazda, and Moog is known for often improving on OE design specs. I don't use anything else for OE style suspension components.
