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My new MAF setup + extra pictures
- Thread starter CasopoliS
- Start date
peepsalot said:I think the vane is normally at a slight angle if I remember correctly. Good stuff to know though that the A/F is apparently leaned out. That's wierd about the plugs. Where the cold ones gapped right?
Did you move the IAT at all when you did this?
IAT stayed at the beginning of the intake track. Gap is set to .032 I think. Vane is definately bent.
I know the car goes a little leaner,but thats only for a few minutes,then your ST/LT fuel trims correct it.
it only moved my LT over 5 when I switched,not enough to make ANY difference.
A/F ratio stayed at a damn near perfect 14.7:1 after the LT moved.
I have had mine moved for a very long time now.almost a year,I don't feel it neccasary,but I will probaly buy a new MAF soon,just to make sure all is well.as of now,it is still reading accuatly(not going by a guess,I made sure to graph it.
it only moved my LT over 5 when I switched,not enough to make ANY difference.
A/F ratio stayed at a damn near perfect 14.7:1 after the LT moved.
I have had mine moved for a very long time now.almost a year,I don't feel it neccasary,but I will probaly buy a new MAF soon,just to make sure all is well.as of now,it is still reading accuatly(not going by a guess,I made sure to graph it.
Differences
Just goes to show every car reacts differently. I may be more comfortable with the MAF at the back if I had a FMIC. I still beleive that the MAF should be moved... but extra precautions should be made to ensure that the chambers are not getting too hot.
wicked said:I know the car goes a little leaner,but thats only for a few minutes,then your ST/LT fuel trims correct it.
it only moved my LT over 5 when I switched,not enough to make ANY difference.
A/F ratio stayed at a damn near perfect 14.7:1 after the LT moved.
I have had mine moved for a very long time now.almost a year,I don't feel it neccasary,but I will probaly buy a new MAF soon,just to make sure all is well.as of now,it is still reading accuatly(not going by a guess,I made sure to graph it.
Just goes to show every car reacts differently. I may be more comfortable with the MAF at the back if I had a FMIC. I still beleive that the MAF should be moved... but extra precautions should be made to ensure that the chambers are not getting too hot.
agreed,but it's not that the cars are different,it's because you don't have a FMIC,your s*** is just to hot.
extra precations should be made,like monitering how your car is reacting.
I believe that anyone that has moved the MAF should take the time to stop by a good shop,and get them to check thier LT/ST fuel trims,but they should wait a week or so after they move it to check.
they should also go back every once in awhile to have them checked again.
hopefully no one gets a code P-O171 from this.(B1S1o2 lean to long)
extra precations should be made,like monitering how your car is reacting.
I believe that anyone that has moved the MAF should take the time to stop by a good shop,and get them to check thier LT/ST fuel trims,but they should wait a week or so after they move it to check.
they should also go back every once in awhile to have them checked again.
hopefully no one gets a code P-O171 from this.(B1S1o2 lean to long)
Agree
Agreed. This is something that I really didn't think about. I had just assumed that the ECU would appreciate a truly accurate signal. Which it actually does, but tries to trim it a little close for comfort. I think with a FMIC things would be better; still a little lean but since it is colder, it would be better.
I didn't permanently, undo the mod, I just put in a length of stiff radiator hose in the MAF's place for now. You know what's funny? The hose has a better seal than the silicone coupler did LOL!
wicked said:agreed,but it's not that the cars are different,it's because you don't have a FMIC,your s*** is just to hot.
extra precations should be made,like monitering how your car is reacting.
I believe that anyone that has moved the MAF should take the time to stop by a good shop,and get them to check thier LT/ST fuel trims,but they should wait a week or so after they move it to check.
they should also go back every once in awhile to have them checked again.
hopefully no one gets a code P-O171 from this.(B1S1o2 lean to long)
Agreed. This is something that I really didn't think about. I had just assumed that the ECU would appreciate a truly accurate signal. Which it actually does, but tries to trim it a little close for comfort. I think with a FMIC things would be better; still a little lean but since it is colder, it would be better.
I didn't permanently, undo the mod, I just put in a length of stiff radiator hose in the MAF's place for now. You know what's funny? The hose has a better seal than the silicone coupler did LOL!
Putting the MAF after the compressor will run leaner because it doesnt sense pressure. You would say that before the turbo it doesnt either. BUT!! it will see actual amount of air that WILL BE COMPRESSED.
So unless you do your own fuel management, trick the O2 or anything to control A/F, it will run leaner...I think that with a FMIC it could be worse.
Im not saying its a bad idea...it works, but you need to do some management.
So unless you do your own fuel management, trick the O2 or anything to control A/F, it will run leaner...I think that with a FMIC it could be worse.
Im not saying its a bad idea...it works, but you need to do some management.
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
turbo n00b here...
What's the BPV for? What does it do and why is it there?
What's the BPV for? What does it do and why is it there?
Bpv
It shunts positive pressure to the fornorton rod. The reason it is there is so that the flux capacitor doesn't spin the turbo backwards during the negative fluctuations as the electrical charge stores beyond 1.3 gigawatts.
(google)
FunkyBuddha said:turbo n00b here...
What's the BPV for? What does it do and why is it there?
It shunts positive pressure to the fornorton rod. The reason it is there is so that the flux capacitor doesn't spin the turbo backwards during the negative fluctuations as the electrical charge stores beyond 1.3 gigawatts.
(google)
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
genius said:It shunts positive pressure to the fornorton rod. The reason it is there is so that the flux capacitor doesn't spin the turbo backwards during the negative fluctuations as the electrical charge stores beyond 1.3 gigawatts.
(google)
nice..i'll have to check out the flux capacitor and make sure that there is negative pressure to the fornorton rod. Although I'm pretty sure I'm storing 1.3gW or maybe even more.
Lmao!
Ya that damn rod gets ya every time!
FunkyBuddha said:nice..i'll have to check out the flux capacitor and make sure that there is negative pressure to the fornorton rod. Although I'm pretty sure I'm storing 1.3gW or maybe even more.
Ya that damn rod gets ya every time!
igdrasil said:Putting the MAF after the compressor will run leaner because it doesnt sense pressure. You would say that before the turbo it doesnt either. BUT!! it will see actual amount of air that WILL BE COMPRESSED.
So unless you do your own fuel management, trick the O2 or anything to control A/F, it will run leaner...I think that with a FMIC it could be worse.
Im not saying its a bad idea...it works, but you need to do some management.
yea,but the amout it actually goes lean is corrected almost instantly.just has to stay lean long enough for the O2 to read it,then it changes your LT fuel trim.I have spent the time to test this.
I only went 5 on the LT,and that is not enough to set the P-0171 code,for that you have to be at 25 on the LT.
you also need to remember I have had mine switched to the presure side for almost a year.
I have had plenty of time to test.
What is LT, and how do you know what yours is? What about when the car is not in closed loop? It shouldn't adjust anything based on the O2 sensorwicked said:yea,but the amout it actually goes lean is corrected almost instantly.just has to stay lean long enough for the O2 to read it,then it changes your LT fuel trim.I have spent the time to test this.
I only went 5 on the LT,and that is not enough to set the P-0171 code,for that you have to be at 25 on the LT.
you also need to remember I have had mine switched to the presure side for almost a year.
I have had plenty of time to test.
Last edited:
Good info added to this thread, thanks guys. I will actually be moving my MAF to the stock position once I install my new FMIC. I will be recirculating all of the air, possibly with two diverter valves. I will use the AFC to get my car running smoother, I did not have this when I moved the MAF. I will look at the vane when I remove the MAF and let ya know how it looks. My car ran fine with it moved, and my plugs are doing fine. (DENSO KJ22)
I will keep you updated.
I will keep you updated.
Plugs
You are using one step colder as well. With those plugs in, my chambers were not hot anymore. But like I said, my car has always hated them. It sputters and pops (small backfires) constantly. The plugs will be black from soot in about another week. Now that I have moved my MAF back, I will be putting the stock heat range back in. But since my old plugs were burned from the lean conditions, I guess I should not put them back in...
Like someone said before, my s*** is too damn hot. Need to hunt down a FMIC.
CasopoliS said:Good info added to this thread, thanks guys. I will actually be moving my MAF to the stock position once I install my new FMIC. I will be recirculating all of the air, possibly with two diverter valves. I will use the AFC to get my car running smoother, I did not have this when I moved the MAF. I will look at the vane when I remove the MAF and let ya know how it looks. My car ran fine with it moved, and my plugs are doing fine. (DENSO KJ22)
I will keep you updated.
You are using one step colder as well. With those plugs in, my chambers were not hot anymore. But like I said, my car has always hated them. It sputters and pops (small backfires) constantly. The plugs will be black from soot in about another week. Now that I have moved my MAF back, I will be putting the stock heat range back in. But since my old plugs were burned from the lean conditions, I guess I should not put them back in...
Like someone said before, my s*** is too damn hot. Need to hunt down a FMIC.
Richness has to do with A/F ratio, not timing. (scratch)CustomMSP said:If anything I think the timing is what changes a little, because the car doesn't run as rich with it on the pressure side.
Timing
I have no way of knowing exactly what my timing was doing but one thing was for sure, it was leaner than normal. I am not saying that it was dangerously laen to detonate, just lean. Need to cool down the chamber before I do this again.
CustomMSP said:My A/F ratio stayed exactly the same between the ambient and the pressure side just fyi. If anything I think the timing is what changes a little, because the car doesn't run as rich with it on the pressure side.
I have no way of knowing exactly what my timing was doing but one thing was for sure, it was leaner than normal. I am not saying that it was dangerously laen to detonate, just lean. Need to cool down the chamber before I do this again.
peepsalot said:Richness has to do with A/F ratio, not timing. (scratch)
Well with the original flash by mazda all was really changed was the timing to get rid of the hesitation., which was a result of a rich a/f ratio correct?
I should note,I was doing these tests on an un-flashed MSP
timming did not change,from either side.
only change was small in the A/F,and was almost instantly corrected.
genius--your surtain your gap was correct?
I tried with stock range,and colder.2 differt types of each,and found the ZFR6F-11 work the best,with a FMIC,intake,exhaust,10 psi,with MAF moved.
timming did not change,from either side.
only change was small in the A/F,and was almost instantly corrected.
genius--your surtain your gap was correct?
I tried with stock range,and colder.2 differt types of each,and found the ZFR6F-11 work the best,with a FMIC,intake,exhaust,10 psi,with MAF moved.
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