My new MAF setup + extra pictures

[genius]

Longevity

s*** imlate with this comment

But basically the longevity issue because you need a "blow by" maf? Sorry if its already been brought up

I haven't heard anyone coming out and saying **** **** ****, I just blew up my MAF because it was on the pressurized side, but for what it is worth, people seem to think that if you move the MAF to the pressure side, the vane may snap off.

Now that I have done this, if I am driving down the road and my MAF does crap out, am I crippled or would I still be able to limp it home? Also if the vane does suck into the TB, would the motor be completely hosed? I know very little about the engine blocks themselves.

 

[genius]

Initial results

Lookin good man, how's it feel? I have 2" pipes like you, so this is a very similar setup to what I would have to do.

I just took it for a test drive and I wouldn't say "I just gained 10 HP, holy s***!"; but my initial results are that I have a VERY SMOOTH acceleration curve, a harder pull and my A/F guage is giving a more stable reading than before.

It is a little on the stoich to lean side, but I think that I need to reset the ECU longer because usually when you reset the ECU, the engine runs at a high RPM for a while until it relearns the intakes and it did not act any different for me this time.

I am also taking it easy, because that one clamp is a little lop-sided on the 90 elbow from the TB and I need to go out there and redo it after the engine cools. Ok I got a little anxious! (cabpatch)

 

[peepsalot]

nope,the little grill thingy in front of the MAF(diffuser)it does a good job at smothing out the air.

I lost my diffuser. Seriously... I don't wanna talk about it.

Anyone wanna sell me theirs, like if you have a broken MAF maybe?

 

[genius]

I lost my diffuser. Seriously... I don't wanna talk about it.

Anyone wanna sell me theirs, like if you have a broken MAF maybe?

This may sound crazy, but if it comes down to it, you could just make one out of plexi.

 

[CasopoliS]

I don't think it has anything to do with the vane falling off. A blow-by MAF would be ideal, because when you blow-off or recirc air, you are pulling it past the MAF in reverse. I think it heats the vane up and see how long it takes to cool and correlates that to air flow. I think on the pressure side, this technology becomes less 'correlated', especially without some sort of trained correction factor or something. The increased pressure causes increased stress on the components and it just dies I think. But who knows. I think this would be more of an issue past 12-15 psi. The fact that the MAF is close to the TB, means less air is pulled through it in reverse when you blow-off or recirc air.

 

[spacemonkey]

I haven't heard anyone coming out and saying **** **** ****, I just blew up my MAF because it was on the pressurized side, but for what it is worth, people seem to think that if you move the MAF to the pressure side, the vane may snap off.
.

We shall see when you start boosting more. And if it was designed to be on the pressure side it would be on the pressure side.

Do you want to take the risk of a piece of plastic snaping off and sliding into your cylinders? I guess you can take the maf guard off. Just saying its not waht its deisgned to do...hence why there is such a thing as a blow by maf. As noted a blow by maf is designed to be in the pressure side...hence why its called "blow by." A MAF goes through differnet kind of stress and situation when its moved to that part of the car. I dont know much about this subject but a device that is deisgned to measure airflow (not pressure) when located in a section of a car where airflow is differnet? only reason why it works is because it senses air before it is discharged instead of after and freaking out. But also Greddy Emanage has a function that allow MAF cars to run a atmo BOV.

Do as you wish im just making discussion.

 

[wicked]

We shall see when you start boosting more. And if it was designed to be on the pressure side it would be on the pressure side.

Do you want to take the risk of a piece of plastic snaping off and sliding into your cylinders? I guess you can take the maf guard off. Just saying its not waht its deisgned to do...hence why there is such a thing as a blow by maf. As noted a blow by maf is designed to be in the pressure side...hence why its called "blow by." A MAF goes through differnet kind of stress and situation when its moved to that part of the car. I dont know much about this subject but a device that is deisgned to measure airflow (not pressure) when located in a section of a car where airflow is differnet? only reason why it works is because it senses air before it is discharged instead of after and freaking out. But also Greddy Emanage has a function that allow MAF cars to run a atmo BOV.

Do as you wish im just making discussion.

it's not a MAF "gaurd",it straightens the air before it goes through the MAF for an acurate reading.

and the only real difference between a blow by MAF,is the it is made to take more wear.

 

[CasopoliS]

Once someone comes up with a MAF replacement, or a MAP system I am moving to that. It should be understood by anyone performing this mod. that the life of the stock MAF is compromised. I will say there are people running more boost than I do with the MAF on the pressure side and it is still doing fine after many miles. When you do mods like this always prepare for the worse. Whenever I have issues with my car I never get too upset because I understand all the s*** I do to it.

 

[genius]

I don't think it has anything to do with the vane falling off. A blow-by MAF would be ideal, because when you blow-off or recirc air, you are pulling it past the MAF in reverse. I think it heats the vane up and see how long it takes to cool and correlates that to air flow. I think on the pressure side, this technology becomes less 'correlated', especially without some sort of trained correction factor or something. The increased pressure causes increased stress on the components and it just dies I think. But who knows. I think this would be more of an issue past 12-15 psi. The fact that the MAF is close to the TB, means less air is pulled through it in reverse when you blow-off or recirc air.

Cool, no one explained that before, I always figured it was the vane popping off because someone complained about the vane being bent towards the back of the MAF.

But I am still curious, what would happen if the MAF dies, would I be crippled on the side of the road or would I still be able to limp it home. I have had it pop off and the car stalled but that was because the MAF was still working, it just told the ECU there was no air flow.

Also, who sells a blow-by MAF that will work on our car, the last time I checked, you have to use a voltage clamp with those.

 

[1338]

you could limp home but you wont be able to go pass 3k rpm and you will be blowing mad black smoke.

 

[genius]

Maf?

Did you by any chance take out the diffuser from the MAF?

 

[CasopoliS]

Did you by any chance take out the diffuser from the MAF?

No... and don't.

 

[genius]

No... and don't.

Cool, I won't The reason why I asked is because the turbo creates a kind of vortex efect with the air. I just thought about the diffuser breaking that up.

After driving on it for a few days, the one advantage I have is that I have a very smooth acceleration curve. Before I did this, I had a big burst of power in partial throttle in second gear. Now the curve is smoothed out. I still can't say in my particular MSP I have any increase in power per say, but I am still very happy with the results.

 

[CasopoliS]

FYI I took the diverter valve out and loostened the BOV. The car runs the same, but the BOV is louder. Only a slight buck if I shift at low rpm, but no turkey. I was just doing this to test.... but the car runs just as good, so I decided to sell the diverter valve even though I JUST installed it. I love the valve, but it cost me decent $ and was not needed once I moved my MAF. It is still immaculate, and I am selling it here:

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110860

 

[Hypnotized]

Here are some pics of my setup.

 

[wicked]

not bad,now you should look into getting correct sized couplers,instead of shimming them.

of course I recamend turbohoses.com

 

[genius]

Bov

If I wanted to, I could put the BOV on the Turbo to IC pipe right? Also, the Greddy Type S and the HKS both can be hooked directly to a hose vs welding on the pipe? Reason being, I already have a nipple coming off the hot pipe right now for my stock bypass valve. I wanted to just use that.

 

[CasopoliS]

If I wanted to, I could put the BOV on the Turbo to IC pipe right? Also, the Greddy Type S and the HKS both can be hooked directly to a hose vs welding on the pipe? Reason being, I already have a nipple coming off the hot pipe right now for my stock bypass valve. I wanted to just use that.

Yes you can put the BOV there. There are adaptors out there that will take a flange and convert it to a pipe nipple. You would have to bolt this to the bottom of the HKS / Greddy.

 

[wicked]

I'd just chop the nipple,and weld the flange were it was,looks cleaner.

 

[genius]

Update...

would this affect your A/F readings? leaning it out a lil more? do you have a dyno showing them before. i so get a nother dyno with this setup to see if it affected you A/F readings.

Ok, after probably a month of running this setup, I noticed a couple of things.

The car does have a more even pull, but IMHO, it is slightly weaker, maybe -5 HP? The A/F gauge under boost with the MAF in the stock position would show solid green. But with the MAF in the new position, it was in the lower middle and would show the ECU fighting to keep it out of the red.

I checked the (stock) plugs after about 2 weeks of daily driving with moderate bursts of eeehha! With 9 psi, the plugs' porcelain was varying shades of black and brown. To answer the first question that is going to get posted, that means that the plugs are dangerously hot. I happened to have some extra plugs lying around that were one step colder and I stuck them in and after two weeks they stayed white, which is a good thing. But for whatever reason, my car hates cold plugs and acts sluggish when I put them in. Kinda like giving a kid cough syrup... It would make him feel better if he would just drink the s*** and quit complaining!

After thinking long and hard, I decided to move the MAF back. Upon doing so, I noticed that the vane is slightly twisted more then before and also slightly bent. I didn't make any efforts to straighten it because I have read enough of these threads to know better. I just stuck it in and the car runs fine now.