My New 2013 Mazda5 GT - Stereo Upgrade Time

[ckappycycle]

Pickup, hang up, talk steering wheel buttons are controlled by 1F pin on 0920-601A connector (big one on the bluetooth module).

If you're using generic android stereo with SW1 and SW2, you should connect 1F of 0920-601A to SW2 on android stereo via 330 ohm resistor. And SW1 goes to 1N of 0920-401A (main radio connector).

If some canbox controller is used (generic chinese, for example), 1F pin on 0920-601A --> pin5 of canbox, 1N of 0920-401A --> pin15 of canbox.

I've attached the schematics which I used for reference when I was connecting android stereo with canbox (although, all buttons are connected via SW1/SW2 in my case, not canbox).

Absolutely everything works as intended, including overlay displaying which door is currently open.

Also, you can definitely repurpose existing BT module by ripping out the connector and reusing it for a cleaner installation. I screwed it to a piece of plastic and soldered everything neatly. This BT connector is a perfect place to connect sleepy Pi / any sort of additional computer one want to use. This connector has ACC+, BAT, GND, CAN-H, CAN-L, I wish I had time for this.

Thanks.
I'm still sort of wondering if you needed the CANBus adapter like the PAC. The Crux I think is just for the SWC which the headunit may take care of.
Assuming generic canbox is equivalent/copy of PACs little interface device?
I would assume the info button and the A/C controls drive the right and left side of the display without going through the radio.

Off hand do you know if the VSS (speed) I thought was on the 24 pin but maybe that was on older models?

The PAC for $140 might make 20-30 minutes of life easier and eliminate the question of what happens without it but it does require power and probably needs the old BT module plugged in to get the second steering wheel circuit data into the CANbus.

 

[bradlee313]

Thanks.
I'm still sort of wondering if you needed the CANBus adapter like the PAC. The Crux I think is just for the SWC which the headunit may take care of.
Assuming generic canbox is equivalent/copy of PACs little interface device?
I would assume the info button and the A/C controls drive the right and left side of the display without going through the radio.

Off hand do you know if the VSS (speed) I thought was on the 24 pin but maybe that was on older models?

The PAC for $140 might make 20-30 minutes of life easier and eliminate the question of what happens without it but it does require power and probably needs the old BT module plugged in to get the second steering wheel circuit data into the CANbus.

The PAC unit was so plug and play, no need to even think about anything else. Just get it

 

[ckappycycle]

The PAC unit was so plug and play, no need to even think about anything else. Just get it

OK, just ordered:
Metra Electronics 40-HD10 for the antenna
Metra 95-7521B Dash Kit
Some Red Wolf USB that looks equivalent to the Scosche TAUSB01B because the Scosche was long delivery. Ordered a good old fashion drill and insert USB extension cable as plan b.
PAC RP4-MZ11 RadioPro4. I figure I can either use the SWC from the PAC or wire around it.
Headunit will be the Alpine ILX-W670 which was just delivered unless sudden reason to exchange it.

Thanks for the recommendations and feedback.

 

[bradlee313]

OK, just ordered:
Metra Electronics 40-HD10 for the antenna
Metra 95-7521B Dash Kit
Some Red Wolf USB that looks equivalent to the Scosche TAUSB01B because the Scosche was long delivery. Ordered a good old fashion drill and insert USB extension cable as plan b.
PAC RP4-MZ11 RadioPro4. I figure I can either use the SWC from the PAC or wire around it.
Headunit will be the Alpine ILX-W670 which was just delivered unless sudden reason to exchange it.

Thanks for the recommendations and feedback.

I tried both the Scosche and RedWolf. Both worked fine. I only kept the Scosche because it had a shorter cable and I trust the brand. I had never heard of RedWolf before.

 

[theblooms]

OK, just ordered:
Metra Electronics 40-HD10 for the antenna
Metra 95-7521B Dash Kit
Some Red Wolf USB that looks equivalent to the Scosche TAUSB01B because the Scosche was long delivery. Ordered a good old fashion drill and insert USB extension cable as plan b.
PAC RP4-MZ11 RadioPro4. I figure I can either use the SWC from the PAC or wire around it.
Headunit will be the Alpine ILX-W670 which was just delivered unless sudden reason to exchange it.

Thanks for the recommendations and feedback.

I used the PAC for a little over a year , and then it started flaking out on me (started failing right outside of the warranty, obviously). That's when I upgraded to the Maestro.

Hopefully your PAC will last a little longer than mine did.

 

[theblooms]

I tried both the Scosche and RedWolf. Both worked fine. I only kept the Scosche because it had a shorter cable and I trust the brand. I had never heard of RedWolf before.

Redwolf is a new generic Chinesium interface company. But then, pretty much everything is Chinesium, so there's that. I have purchased a few of their harnesses because they're cheap. And so far, they've all worked. I did have to repin the one in my Silverado to make it work, but it's got the Bose in it, and I think you have to repin all of those, no matter who makes the harness. Just a quirk of the Chevy Bose thing.

 

[bradlee313]

I used the PAC for a little over a year , and then it started flaking out on me (started failing right outside of the warranty, obviously). That's when I upgraded to the Maestro.

Hopefully your PAC will last a little longer than mine did.

Mine was installed when this thread was created, December 2019. No issues yet!

 

[ckappycycle]

I've had 2 different boxes from 2 different manufactures work about half the time in my Sienna so minimizing expenditure seemed a good idea. The Maestro approaches the price of the head unit.
I'd still rather the display be up by the information display. After driving my CX30, you sort of realize placement of the old radio stinks. I like the knob interface much more than I thought I would.

 

[theblooms]

The Maestro approaches the price of the head unit.

Don't know where you're buying them, but they cost about $125. There's one on Crutchfield right now at that price.

 

[ckappycycle]

Don't know where you're buying them, but they cost about $125. There's one on Crutchfield right now at that price.

View attachment 344400

Good find at Crutchfield "Outlet", scratch and dent to knock vs $190.
I was seeing about $150 on ebay and then still need the $70 vehicle specific harness and a radio side harness ($12ish).
Crutchfield had a Kenwood Open Box too that does the idatalink.

 

[ckappycycle]

Most of the way done yesterday
The PAC adapter had tiny wires that were like 4AWG smaller than the lines off the Alpine for the power and ground. The Metra plug at least is just 2 AWG different.
I pulled the pins out of the connector and used the wires form the Alpine and soldered the adapter wires to that.
The USB adapter did work but the connection on the USB/Aux port was a little sketchy after 12 years. Will go with plan b of just drilling a new port instead of trying to find and maintain a stable cable in a worn USB A.

Steering wheel buttons seem to be functioning.

When checking fade/balance, rear speakers sound like they could use help.
One of the other family members will end up driving this one since I've got a nice little CX30 Carbon Turbo, so I will only be bothered by the thought of how bad they sound.

I think those are 6x8 back there but no depth and I assume just the normal ford/mazda whatever adapters they have been using since 2000 something?

The half the upper right vent clip did break loose during the disassembly. I'm not sure if anything else didn't like being disturbed after 12 years of Texas heat.

 

[bradlee313]

Most of the way done yesterday
The PAC adapter had tiny wires that were like 4AWG smaller than the lines off the Alpine for the power and ground. The Metra plug at least is just 2 AWG different.
I pulled the pins out of the connector and used the wires form the Alpine and soldered the adapter wires to that.
The USB adapter did work but the connection on the USB/Aux port was a little sketchy after 12 years. Will go with plan b of just drilling a new port instead of trying to find and maintain a stable cable in a worn USB A.

Steering wheel buttons seem to be functioning.

When checking fade/balance, rear speakers sound like they could use help.
One of the other family members will end up driving this one since I've got a nice little CX30 Carbon Turbo, so I will only be bothered by the thought of how bad they sound.

I think those are 6x8 back there but no depth and I assume just the normal ford/mazda whatever adapters they have been using since 2000 something?

The half the upper right vent clip did break loose during the disassembly. I'm not sure if anything else didn't like being disturbed after 12 years of Texas heat.

Reprogramming the steering wheel buttons is a bit of a pain, mainly because the direction supplied weren't so good. You have to walk through each button and set. I added a long press to the voice button to activate phone assistant.

 

[ckappycycle]

Reprogramming the steering wheel buttons is a bit of a pain, mainly because the direction supplied weren't so good. You have to walk through each button and set. I added a long press to the voice button to activate phone assistant.

Good reminder. I didn't try that button as in the CX30 I usually avoid the button and do voice activation because it tried to do set up Alexa and I didn't go back and set Google back to default.