My New 2013 Mazda5 GT - Stereo Upgrade Time

Pickup, hang up, talk steering wheel buttons are controlled by 1F pin on 0920-601A connector (big one on the bluetooth module).

If you're using generic android stereo with SW1 and SW2, you should connect 1F of 0920-601A to SW2 on android stereo via 330 ohm resistor. And SW1 goes to 1N of 0920-401A (main radio connector).

If some canbox controller is used (generic chinese, for example), 1F pin on 0920-601A --> pin5 of canbox, 1N of 0920-401A --> pin15 of canbox.

I've attached the schematics which I used for reference when I was connecting android stereo with canbox (although, all buttons are connected via SW1/SW2 in my case, not canbox).

Absolutely everything works as intended, including overlay displaying which door is currently open.

Also, you can definitely repurpose existing BT module by ripping out the connector and reusing it for a cleaner installation. I screwed it to a piece of plastic and soldered everything neatly. This BT connector is a perfect place to connect sleepy Pi / any sort of additional computer one want to use. This connector has ACC+, BAT, GND, CAN-H, CAN-L, I wish I had time for this.
Thanks.
I'm still sort of wondering if you needed the CANBus adapter like the PAC. The Crux I think is just for the SWC which the headunit may take care of.
Assuming generic canbox is equivalent/copy of PACs little interface device?
I would assume the info button and the A/C controls drive the right and left side of the display without going through the radio.

Off hand do you know if the VSS (speed) I thought was on the 24 pin but maybe that was on older models?

The PAC for $140 might make 20-30 minutes of life easier and eliminate the question of what happens without it but it does require power and probably needs the old BT module plugged in to get the second steering wheel circuit data into the CANbus.
 
Thanks.
I'm still sort of wondering if you needed the CANBus adapter like the PAC. The Crux I think is just for the SWC which the headunit may take care of.
Assuming generic canbox is equivalent/copy of PACs little interface device?
I would assume the info button and the A/C controls drive the right and left side of the display without going through the radio.

Off hand do you know if the VSS (speed) I thought was on the 24 pin but maybe that was on older models?

The PAC for $140 might make 20-30 minutes of life easier and eliminate the question of what happens without it but it does require power and probably needs the old BT module plugged in to get the second steering wheel circuit data into the CANbus.
The PAC unit was so plug and play, no need to even think about anything else. Just get it 😅
 
The PAC unit was so plug and play, no need to even think about anything else. Just get it 😅
OK, just ordered:
Metra Electronics 40-HD10 for the antenna
Metra 95-7521B Dash Kit
Some Red Wolf USB that looks equivalent to the Scosche TAUSB01B because the Scosche was long delivery. Ordered a good old fashion drill and insert USB extension cable as plan b.
PAC RP4-MZ11 RadioPro4. I figure I can either use the SWC from the PAC or wire around it.
Headunit will be the Alpine ILX-W670 which was just delivered unless sudden reason to exchange it.

Thanks for the recommendations and feedback.
 
OK, just ordered:
Metra Electronics 40-HD10 for the antenna
Metra 95-7521B Dash Kit
Some Red Wolf USB that looks equivalent to the Scosche TAUSB01B because the Scosche was long delivery. Ordered a good old fashion drill and insert USB extension cable as plan b.
PAC RP4-MZ11 RadioPro4. I figure I can either use the SWC from the PAC or wire around it.
Headunit will be the Alpine ILX-W670 which was just delivered unless sudden reason to exchange it.

Thanks for the recommendations and feedback.
I tried both the Scosche and RedWolf. Both worked fine. I only kept the Scosche because it had a shorter cable and I trust the brand. I had never heard of RedWolf before.
 
OK, just ordered:
Metra Electronics 40-HD10 for the antenna
Metra 95-7521B Dash Kit
Some Red Wolf USB that looks equivalent to the Scosche TAUSB01B because the Scosche was long delivery. Ordered a good old fashion drill and insert USB extension cable as plan b.
PAC RP4-MZ11 RadioPro4. I figure I can either use the SWC from the PAC or wire around it.
Headunit will be the Alpine ILX-W670 which was just delivered unless sudden reason to exchange it.

Thanks for the recommendations and feedback.
I used the PAC for a little over a year , and then it started flaking out on me (started failing right outside of the warranty, obviously). That's when I upgraded to the Maestro.

Hopefully your PAC will last a little longer than mine did.
 
I tried both the Scosche and RedWolf. Both worked fine. I only kept the Scosche because it had a shorter cable and I trust the brand. I had never heard of RedWolf before.
Redwolf is a new generic Chinesium interface company. But then, pretty much everything is Chinesium, so there's that. I have purchased a few of their harnesses because they're cheap. And so far, they've all worked. I did have to repin the one in my Silverado to make it work, but it's got the Bose in it, and I think you have to repin all of those, no matter who makes the harness. Just a quirk of the Chevy Bose thing.
 
I used the PAC for a little over a year , and then it started flaking out on me (started failing right outside of the warranty, obviously). That's when I upgraded to the Maestro.

Hopefully your PAC will last a little longer than mine did.
Mine was installed when this thread was created, December 2019. No issues yet!
 
I've had 2 different boxes from 2 different manufactures work about half the time in my Sienna so minimizing expenditure seemed a good idea. The Maestro approaches the price of the head unit.
I'd still rather the display be up by the information display. After driving my CX30, you sort of realize placement of the old radio stinks. I like the knob interface much more than I thought I would.
 

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