My MSP project

Oh yeah.. I forgot to ask.. especially with the whole texas heat thing.. have you had any issues with AC in settings 2 or 3? I saw the fix involves a couple resisters and some soldering, but I didn't catch you mentioning anything about it..

I love that Kenwood touchscreen too.. Can we just switch cars? lmao

I am gonna have to do my homework on the e-brake bypass.. and I really want to have a rear view camera if I have a video screen in the car.. I think that feature would update the car a lot..

I liked your shifter solution.. My leather sort of rotates around the shaft.. its annoying. I have been looking at this though.. I think its the closest I can find that "matches" our interiors.. Its also a little taller.. I think that might be a good thing..

http://www.free2daycarparts.com/i-7...in3K_Nd1NFPOPiVYZ6KCT0aAs8S8P8HAQ&aid=9256681
 
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Oh yeah.. I forgot to ask.. especially with the whole texas heat thing.. have you had any issues with AC in settings 2 or 3? I saw the fix involves a couple resisters and some soldering, but I didn't catch you mentioning anything about it..

I love that Kenwood touchscreen too.. Can we just switch cars? lmao

I am gonna have to do my homework on the e-brake bypass.. and I really want to have a rear view camera if I have a video screen in the car.. I think that feature would update the car a lot..

I liked your shifter solution.. My leather sort of rotates around the shaft.. its annoying. I have been looking at this though.. I think its the closest I can find that "matches" our interiors.. Its also a little taller.. I think that might be a good thing..

http://www.free2daycarparts.com/i-7...in3K_Nd1NFPOPiVYZ6KCT0aAs8S8P8HAQ&aid=9256681

I personally haven't had problems with my ac, but my wife has a 2002 P5, and its a lil touchy on 2 sometimes. But in Texas, you gotta have the ac on full if you don't want to melt, so anything less than full blast is rendered useless one way or the other. For the e brake bypass, I purchased one from amazon when I ordered the head unit (for about $10). The bypass is different for each brand, so be sure you get one that is made for whatever head unit you go with.

I like that shifter you chose. It is definitely taller, but I agree that it looks like it would match with the interior well. I thought of replacing my shift knob (with a Cobb perhaps), but I really like the look and feel of the stock one. The decal on mine is starting to wear off, so Im currently watching out for one in better condition. But as far as functionality and feel, I think Mazda nailed it with the Sparco.
 
MSPs usually don't have problems with the AC controls, that is mainly with the older 01-02s. My 02 P5 used to do it all the time but neither of my MSPs have ever done it.
 
But in Texas, you gotta have the ac on full if you don't want to melt, so anything less than full blast is rendered useless one way or the other.
I like that shifter you chose. It is definitely taller, but I agree that it looks like it would match with the interior well. I thought of replacing my shift knob (with a Cobb perhaps), but I really like the look and feel of the stock one. The decal on mine is starting to wear off, so Im currently watching out for one in better condition. But as far as functionality and feel, I think Mazda nailed it with the Sparco.

Fair enough about the Texas heat.. lol.

After I get my new sparco shifter, provided it fits properly, I will let go of mine.. (it looks perfect, but like I said, the leather kind of moves around a bit)

I'll PM you first if I am gonna let it go.
 
MSPs usually don't have problems with the AC controls, that is mainly with the older 01-02s. My 02 P5 used to do it all the time but neither of my MSPs have ever done it.


I have it.. its the CLASSIC AC issue I read about on here.. 1 works, 4 works... 2 and 3 are somewhere between not working, and spotty.. depending on the cabin temp
 
In that case I would look for another set of AC controls from an 03 ES/P5/MSP, or you can replace the fan switch itself. That is the true 'fix' and how I used to repair them at Mazda, not sure why people try re-soldering the board and all that BS.
 
Prolly cause it costs about $1
For those who favor the $1 fixes, the MSP is definitely not the car for them...

After I get my new sparco shifter, provided it fits properly, I will let go of mine.. (it looks perfect, but like I said, the leather kind of moves around a bit)

I'll PM you first if I am gonna let it go.
Thanks! Ill definitely take it off your hands.
 
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My plan was to change the head and the exhaust manifold at the same time. I bought a head from a fellow MSP owner here in Austin a few months back, and it looked to be in good shape. Just before I started to do the install, I did the lighter fluid test on the valves. Both exhaust valves in cylinder 3 had a small leak in them. Probably not as bad as the valve leak in my car currently, but I couldn't bring myself to install a head with bad valves so I can be disappointed in it and subsequently buy more gaskets to then install yet another head. I found a place online that sells rebuilt heads for a decent price. The fsde head is $350 with free shipping and comes with cams included. I plan to order one somewhere around the middle of the month, but we're (Michi Ramen) opening a new restaurant next week, and I need my car working now. So I decided to install just the steedspeed and install the head sometime early next month.

Once I got the taco taco mani off, I realized that what I thought was just a gasket leak was really a gasket leak AND at least 3 big cracks on the backside of the mani on or near the welds. There's probably more but because of the wrap, it remained hidden. Although a cheap mani, I got about a year out of it, so I feel I got my $200 worth. So I got the turbo and mani together and torqued to spec, got the new ARP mani studs in there, and got it in position. I found that because the ARP's are a lil longer to accommodate the hex head (which does make it easier), I had a very hard time getting a wrench in there to tighten the nuts, and especially impossible on the bottom row because the nuts are the 12 point nuts. A box wrench wouldn't work either. I went to the parts store looking for a box wrench with the open end that accommodates 12 point nuts, but came up with nothing. So I just got some regular ol mani nuts and switched them out. I got everything else back together and torqued, and put the radiator and the charge pipes back in. I also turned my BOV the other way to vent away from the air intake. Once I got her back on the ground, I went for a spin.

First thing I noticed was the way quicker spool up time. Even quicker than stock I feel. It also changed the sound of the exhaust just a bit. After about 15 mins, I pulled over and checked under the hood. Amazingly enough, the ceramic coating held the heat in pretty well. I was considering making a heat shield for it, but I think it'll be ok without one. This is how it turned out...
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