My experience on various Mazdaspeed aspects...

[Alejo_NIN]

Well, first order of business:
UPDATED 11/15/2006
COLD AIR INTAKE department

May increase chances of killing you engine bu sucking water. Seen it done..nasty results.
Also increases engine noise, which for some is a good thing and also makes the turkey louder and more noticeable by others.

Injen Intake (On a bone stock car)

1) I noticed absolutely no performance increase (spool time is the same, throttle response is the same, felt no increase in power at all)
2) It makes a lot of noise (flutter/turkey, loud spool)

Overall, I would not make this your first mod. Put the money towards an exhaust, smic or something/ anything else.

i have to say that your comment on the intake is totally wrong. An intake wont exactly give you a shitload of hp, but it makes it a lot easier for your engine to breath, and the power is really noticable when you add more and more hp, because it is a lot easier to suck

EMS department

Not much experience on this, but people swear is the best bang for the buck making stock cars have 200+ hp with minimum mods. Very expensive indeed, maybe something to do after supporting mods like FMIC and exhaust and maybe some engine forging.

in my opinion, worth the money....never been on a car with one tho

Unichip (EBC Off, Map A, Intake & Downpipe Map) (only intake installed)

1) No more hesitation! I cant make the car buck or hesitate at all.
2) Car pulls, and pulls smoothly. Car still runs rich under boot (probably because I am running 6.5-7psi instead of 10-12) Car drives like is should have from the factory.
3) Decreased spool time, step on gas and car just wants to move

UPDATED 11/2/2006

FCD Department:
This is one of the mods that i would never do....just because it takes of a nice feature built into tour cars...the ANTI-ZOOM ZOOM BOOM feature

Yes, it might get rid of hesitations and will allow you to boost higher or cold weathers blah blah

but is this little mod worth blowing an engine for?
i don't think so..
Yea some people have been using it wihtout problems...but they never find out about how much damage they are inflicting on they're engine

I've had nothing but great success with the JoeP FCD (very nice!).

/borat.

Seriously though, I've had no issues with the FCD. The FCD simply "removes" the 5v MAF limit. You can SAFELY run the FCD all day long, so long as you don't go crazy, turn the boost too high, and lean the car out at high RPMs. If you keep an eye on your A:F ratios, then you don't have anything to worry about.

As you can read, he states it is not a bad mod unless you have supporting mods like a AFR gauge, and i believe he's refering to a WIDEBAND instead of a narrowband which in my opinion is just a light show....
UPDATED 10/31/2006

Motor Mounts Department..

Basically, ataching the engine to the chassis in a more productve way.
Stock motor mounts provided by mazda do their job, don't get me wrong, but aimed towards comfort....who needs comfort at 100MPH?? lol
anyways, this department has been upgraded thnx to the boys at AWR, the were replaced by 3 types of durometer 70, 88, and 95 close to stock, medium and hard respectively.

In my opinion, if you want your LSD or transmission including clutch to last a few years longer, then, motor mounts are the thing.

Some say only replace the front, or replace the front and use inserts for the sides, truth is, these people are SCARED!!! they don't want to get into a 6 hr job to get the rear done.

I did front and back, there really isn't any need to replace the side mounts, but if you are so inclined, then go ahead.

Taking off the line with the motor mounts is so much better, you are no longer afraid to step on, unlike with the stock ones, where you will have lots of wheelhop.

Bottom line, the higher the durometer, the best performance, and the worst comfort.
If you are uncomfortable with even durometer 70, then you are driving the wrong car.

Turbo Back Exhaust Department:

Since the only real TB at the time was the GHL, I went with it. Obviously 3" is overkill, I took a chance and I'm all about freeing up flow...I get alot of people say that's to big, what about loosing back pression and bla bla bla. I love it, the quality is incredible...BUT it's too damm loud! It sounds awesome but for somebody like me who doesn't like drawing attention...wtf was I thinking and the dronnnnne....my god! The gains are nice, no issues with it at all, it spools up real quick, the turbo thanks me everytime I step on it.

Suspension Setup Department

Basically, mazda did their homework on this one, finally!!
the stock set up is tuned for the weight and many other factors that were lost when your car stopped being "stock"
Little difference has been aquiered by changing the set up.
Some say to replace the tokico blue for REAL tokico blue struts.
NEVER i repeat NEVER use coilover, i have and they suck mayor ASS
the way to go is with springs.

Is just my opinion, i did felt a difference on the handling, but money could've gone towards something that actually made the car go faster.

SUSPENSION:
- I went from the stock setup to a set of Tein S-Tech springs. To this day, I still can't stand the height of the rear. I think the front is lowered almost to perfection -- but the rear? God, no. It's still flying high, in my opinion.
- Performance wise, I can honestly say that the springs (along with dropping to a 35 series tire) bruise my ass on a daily basis. But there was a slight improvement in handling. Not much -- it's hard to improve on the stock setup, to be honest -- but it's there.

FS-ZE (JDM Spec Cam - Camshaft Sport 20 FS ZE engine) Department:Well, yes and no..

This cam really helps free up some horsies on the top end (but dyno) but it will hurt just a bit the lower end torque.
Meaning?? well, just not made for someone who actually auto-x's their cars.
Makes the RPM band more stable after the turbo kicks in, makes power until about 6000 rpms...a definately mod for someone looking for highend torque.

This set up, together with a 626 mani is the best bang for the buck.
This set up together with removed VICS and VTCS? not recommended at least by me...it hurts lowe end torque just too much, car seems to struggle to get off the line.

SAMCO I/C Pipes Department
(click for pic)

In my opinion, a complete waste of money..
i still can't figure out why would these pipes be betetr than the stock plastic ones, besides them not breaking at the nipple points for the bypass valve.

At any point, they are still HOSES and they will expand under boost.
(open for comments)

Second...

Relocation of the MAF sensor Department

Some say YES, GO FOR IT....others say NO, IT'LL KILL THE MAF
Others say to keep it at the stock position with a BOV/BPV setup
Others to RELOCATE with just a BOV venting to athmosphere...

Now, the thing is figuring which, in the long run, is better...
I have experienced both scenarios

1) being with a relocated MAF and BOV ventin..
Car seems much stronger than without relocation, you still feel a little bit of turkey, hardly noticeable, but it is still there...anyone with a good ear can tell
2) No relocation with BOV on the hot side...well, we all know this just doesn't work...stalling is the primary issue, and if the BOV is hard enough to eliminate stalling, turkey is back in business...
3)No relocation with BOV on COLD side with a bypass valve....seems to be the one tried by most members and that has worked the best...works even better when not using the stock BPV and instead using an aftermarket bypass like Boostsciences' or turboXS(which may also be used as a BOV)
This is the setup used by most people...people who are afraid of some cutting on the cold pipe to relocate, or just can't relocate at all because of the plastic pipes..
4) THE REAL DEAL: Relocation with BOV and BPV...OMG, what a difference...completely eliminates Turkey and will have the WOOSH or WHISTLE of the BOV of your choice...unclattered by turkey...

In other words....option number 4 is the one!

Groundig Cables Department

Well, i've always had my doubts about this stupid ass mod...just adding more cabling to an already cluttered engine bay( am i actually using this word right?? lol)
Most people don't even have a clue on how to install this little devils..
Well, tested one out and it changed my mind completely, they do something...not much...but you can really feel the difference...am not saying "go and waste 9$ on ebay" but it is a mod worth doing.

Turbo Timer Department..

Some say "Not worth it" some say "if i had it at the time, maybe my turbo would've lasted longer"
It is only 45 secs to wait, and well..lets be realistic, you don't go race a civic, and right after winning (or loosing) you shut the engine off....this is technically impossible, you will always most likely drive into a gas station, wait at a light or something...just enough time for the car to cool off a little bit since the turbo is watercooled anyways.
I say, it looks nice, and is a good excuse to buy more gas, since the car always stays on a minimum of 1 min after you takes the keys off...and well..i love the question "hey, looks like you left your keys on, coz your car still running!!!"


Upgraded SMIC department

Some people SWEAR by it, others...well..is cooler to have an intercooler that you can actually see from the outside...
I think is too small, and well...too expensive too...
Some say it is very efficient, but will loose efficiency after 10PSI, which for some is just ok, since they're msp's will never see more than this either because they're not into speed, or don't have the cash/time to go forged....for whoever is planning on EVER running more than 10 PSI, look the other way,,,,maybe a HiBoost FMIC kit, Home Depot kit, Ebay kit or any other kit there might be out there....

--------------------------------------------------------

This is in no way a message to put down quality items designed by people who actually took the time to design, test and market them.....
this is just to talk about things, that well, make no sense to me...and just because it doesn't make sense to me, doens't mean they don't work...

all i want is imput from you, do not flame this thread...instead, let's learn from it

tell us what has worked for you and what hasn't...

"my dick is bigger than yours" mentality just won't cut it here...

Thnx for wasting your time reading this

 

[kamon8404]

Nice write up, especially with the MAF relocation part. That basicly summed it up without having to search through various threads.

About the TT info. Some turbo timers display voltage, and boost, in cabin temp, and various other types of infomation. I would say that the basic TT is a waste, but if you can get a TT for a good price you could potentially cut down on a few gauges that could save you some money.

About the SMIC, I wanted to upgrade to a SMIC and hardpipes and then I realized that it is more expensive in some cases (i.e. turbohoses) than a FMIC. In addition the FMIC will provide better gains in most cases.

Nice write up though.

 

[Ryoga28]

for the MAF relocation here were some of the things I've tried:

1) Bpv+Bov with stock Maf location (9psi) - no turkey, slight hestation, fuel cut, backfiring

2) Bpv+Bov with Maf relocation (9psi) - no turkey, less hestation than option 1, more fuel cut, no backfiring

3) Bpv+Bov with stock Maf location and Dsmconvert's splitsec AFC (10 psi) - no turkey, no hestation, no fuel cut, no backfiring, very smooth.

Personally, I think the Maf should be at the stock location. The main factor for me was the AFC. It made the most difference.

 

[Ryoga28]

TT - Greddy

Personally I liked it a great deal. I don't need to sit in the car after a long drive and wait 30 sec with my watch (yes I am anal that way). Also, I usually use the greddy TT as a voltage gauge.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

thnx guys for keeping it so clean...

keep having imputs, and maybe more topics?? i will add them to the list

 

[BOOSTR]

I'll be the first to admit that I paid too much for hardpipes. But I prefer the look in the engine bay with them versus those ugly black softpipes. My CustomMsp SMIC was the last mod that I purchased. It was money well spent in my opinion and a simple install to boot. I could immediately feel a difference in the car after installing. Its by far my favorite mod.

 

[kamon8404]

I'll be the first to admit that I paid too much for hardpipes. But I prefer the look in the engine bay with them versus those ugly black softpipes. My CustomMsp SMIC was the last mod that I purchased. It was money well spent in my opinion and a simple install to boot. I could immediately feel a difference in the car after installing. Its by far my favorite mod.

Thats good to know. I bought a hard hot pipe.. but I only paid 40 shipped for it. I'm in the process of sanding and shinning before I install it. If I could get a SMIC for a steal of a price I would jump on it. Especially because then all i would need is a hard cold pipe to complete the set. I'm saving for a FMIC inless something else catches my eye in the mean time.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

Ovbiously you should had felt a difference...
but, i bet, you would had felt a bigger difference in performance and looks had you gone with a FMIC, to each its own, is cool that you are doing mods to your car at all...

I'll be the first to admit that I paid too much for hardpipes. But I prefer the look in the engine bay with them versus those ugly black softpipes. My CustomMsp SMIC was the last mod that I purchased. It was money well spent in my opinion and a simple install to boot. I could immediately feel a difference in the car after installing. Its by far my favorite mod.

 

[geomatics_tech]

Upgraded SMIC department

Some people SWEAR by it, others...well..is cooler to have an intercooler that you can actually see from the outside...
I think is too small, and well...too expensive too...
Some say it is very efficient, but will loose efficiency after 10PSI, which for some is just ok, since they're msp's will never see more than this either because they're not into speed, or don't have the cash/time to go forged....for whoever is planning on EVER running more than 10 PSI, look the other way,,,,maybe a HiBoost FMIC kit, Home Depot kit, Ebay kit or any other kit there might be out there....

The upgraded smic is a GOOD mod in my EXPERIENCE, it has been the best upgrade for my car next to ems. I think in stock or near stock form this is the best solution for intercooler upgrades, to boost 10+ psi this will not work as well as a fmic as that is where the fmic is most effective. The stock ic is total crap and anything is an upgrade over it, but if you are considering an ic the upgraded smic is a good option for lower boost applications.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

The upgraded smic is a GOOD mod in my EXPERIENCE, it has been the best upgrade for my car next to ems. I think in stock or near stock form this is the best solution for intercooler upgrades, to boost 10+ psi this will not work as well as a fmic as that is where the fmic is most effective. The stock ic is total crap and anything is an upgrade over it, but if you are considering an ic the upgraded smic is a good option for lower boost applications.

exactly, what i meant by saying is not good, was only over 10PSI, if you read again my post it states that is only good up to 10PSI, anything after that and it won't be efficient enough, some argue that it even isn't efficient at any boost level, but i will give it the benefit of the doubt

a FMIC will always be better against a SMIC

and yes, even no intercooler is better than the piecve of crap that comes with the MSP stock - THE INTERHEATER

 

[Rush]

On the whole MAF issue:
- I ran a Greddy Type RS BOV on the hot pipe with the MAF in the stock location for roughly a week. It was AWFUL. Stalling, stalling, and more stalling. Don't do it!
- I ran the same BOV with the MAF relocated to the cold pipe, about a foot shy of the throttlebody. AMAZING DIFFERENCE. No more stalling, strong and steady idle, and nothing but the clean sound of the BOV.

FMIC:
- As I've only gone from the stock IC to the FMIC, I can't say much on what I think of the SMIC. I can, however, say that I felt a distinct difference once my FMIC was on. No more issues with heat soak whatsoever, and the car pulls more steadily -- without those 'hiccups' that I would experience sometimes stock during accelerations.
- The only downside with this is what it does to the front bumper. It's a trade-off .. You get more performance, but you have to cut into your bumper (a various amount depending on what kit you get) and deal with things never lining up perfectly again.

SUSPENSION:
- I went from the stock setup to a set of Tein S-Tech springs. To this day, I still can't stand the height of the rear. I think the front is lowered almost to perfection -- but the rear? God, no. It's still flying high, in my opinion.
- Performance wise, I can honestly say that the springs (along with dropping to a 35 series tire) bruise my ass on a daily basis. But there was a slight improvement in handling. Not much -- it's hard to improve on the stock setup, to be honest -- but it's there.

.. And that's about all I can think of at the moment. I'll have more to add in about a week, when I get some more parts installed.

 

[ChopstickHero]

Thanks for using my pic!

same sentiment over the upgraded SMIC. i bought it specifically for replacing the stock s*** in there. i'm running 10psi on the Unichip and it's perfect. smooth power delivery, no complaints. but yeah, if you are running higher than 10psi, i would say a FMIC is prob better. but a good SMIC will do wonders. for anybody who has a MSP, get some kind of EMS. it will run alot better and you will never regret buying it.

 

[MSpeed2397]

My two cents...

SMIC - good for low boost apps and no boosting past 10 psi, basically if you don't want to EVER push higher power, get this mod and enjoy the extra power at lower boost...it'll be a great mod for ya.

On the other hand...

FMIC - good upgrade in either case although some turbo lag could come from low boost apps...all depending on core size and whatnot. I'd say the hiboost or BEGI are the best options for lower boost FMICs but get your own custom built FMIC or Perrin for higher boost apps. I have seen the perrin and even though some people say that the core is far to big to put into our car, it works GREAT. I have ridden in an MSP with the Perrin IC setup at 12 to 13 psi and DAMN is it nice. There is little to no lag with his setup.

 

[MSpeed2397]

My two cents...

SMIC - good for low boost apps and no boosting past 10 psi, basically if you don't want to EVER push higher power, get this mod and enjoy the extra power at lower boost...it'll be a great mod for ya.

On the other hand...

FMIC - good upgrade in either case although some turbo lag could come from low boost apps...all depending on core size and whatnot. I'd say the hiboost or BEGI are the best options for lower boost FMICs but get your own custom built FMIC or Perrin for higher boost apps. I have seen the perrin and even though some people say that the core is far to big to put into our car, it works GREAT. I have ridden in an MSP with the Perrin IC setup at 12 to 13 psi and DAMN is it nice. There is little to no lag with his setup.

 

[MSpeed2397]

Sorry about the double post

 

[Alejo_NIN]

thnx for everyone's inputs on this subject

and thnx for keeping it clean, i will add those comments to the first post

 

[Jaysanooch]

My goal was to make the car the way it should of been delivered IMO by Mazda.

Step 1: Upgrade Smic, hardpipes, short ram intake. I got the whole kit from Turbohoses, it's alot of money but worth every cent if you don't want to bother with cutting and custimizing...it was hasle free and made a world of difference. I kept the stock bpv set up, didn't want to hear the bov all day long and didn't want to draw attention for nothing, I like it quiet. Besides I figured I only plan to boost no more than 9-10psi...were not talking over 20psi! I'm probably wrong but there can't be any improvements to a car with a bov if you run max 9-10psi.

Step 2: Turboback! Since the only real TB at the time was the GHL, I went with it. Obviously 3" is overkill, I took a chance and I'm all about freeing up flow...I get alot of people say that's to big, what about loosing back pression and bla bla bla. I love it, the quality is incredible...BUT it's too damm loud! It sounds awesome but for somebody like me who doesn't like drawing attention...wtf was I thinking and the dronnnnne....my god! The gains are nice, no issues with it at all, it spools up real quick, the turbo thanks me everytime I step on it.

Step 3: -motor mounts (AWR)
-short shifter
-Kartboy bushings, bronze oil bushings

These things made me love driving stick 3 times as much. The mods are very cheap considering the improvements they give.

Step 4 to step?: Nevermind all those, I lost total control after step 3.

That's my story...maybe I went off topic and most of you know all this stuff already. Just my experience with what worked for me.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

no, it was very informative, i will add the GHL turbo back to the list, since the smic has been tlked about

 

[Alejo_NIN]

first post updated...
let the debating begin

 

[FlyinMSP]

I disagree with your opinion on the SAMCO I/C Pipe. I tried it on and off to see if there was really a diff. and yes, there is one! It runs smoother, not a big diff. but maybe similar to your Grounding Cables findings