MSP: SRI vs Injen Long Ram intakes

[hornsfan10609]

Moving the coolant res should be the least of your worries.

 

[TURBOJ1]

If you want an intake just buy an FMIC kit, install it and use a spare pipe and stick a filter on the end to make a short ram. No need to drop $2-300 on an intake IMO.

Thank you!!!!....I thougt I was the only one like " huh" this is too easy

 

[TURBOJ1]

I want something that actually will improve our vehicles. From the forums n pages I've been reading everybody has said to get the Injen intakes cause it shows more pep and improves hp. I'm not sure yet on where or what to do first. Just learning as I go.

Buddy....Your car is turbo, not NA. Forget all that "brand name s***" Short or long does not matter on a TURBO car, You'll see 4,5,6,7...1000hp cars with NO piping and just a filter. You get my point?....

 

[CHIQLES]

My only concern with their FMIC is the crazy long plumbing -> shorter = more responsive. That being said, you can't beat the price and if it fits, proper bent or welded pipes are much better than having a dozen couplers holding little chunks of aluminum together.

As far as the intake is concerned, if you start with 20 degree warmer air it will never lose that heat, only gain more. Your best bet is to avoid all unnecessary heat.

Pope is right here

 

[CHIQLES]

this morning I read this post and here is my 2 cents,
I drove my car and then parked it. When I came back the temperature at the throttle was 129F and 95F at intake it is 60F outside. I drove for 3 minutes stop and go traffic throttle dropped to 90 and intake to 80. outside is still 60. Im not sure how long it takes for heat soak to go away in a standard intercooler system but mine is about 3 minutes before it stabilizes. Once i'm in the freeway everything gets better 70 at intake 80 at throttle and still 60 outside, at anytime my intake temperature matches my throttle temp heat soak happens....
My money goes to the long system and trying to avoid heat all together. no point in making your intercooler work harder. Another point is if piping did not matter for temperature, then why did another member start selling those boxes awhile back to avoid heat for the sri's. And as far as those 1000 hp cars there mostly doing pulls and going hard for a small period of time and not sitting in traffic.

 

[thepope540]

Buddy....Your car is turbo, not NA. Forget all that "brand name s***" Short or long does not matter on a TURBO car, You'll see 4,5,6,7...1000hp cars with NO piping and just a filter. You get my point?....

I don't normally do this, but you're flat out wrong here. Yes there are high horsepower cars with filters on their turbos, but that doesn't make it the right decision for all cars. This is dependent on the location of the turbo and the heat sources around it. If our turbo was over by the frame, away from the manifold and NOT behind the radiator I would be all for short or no piping. Our car isn't setup that way.

Have you ever noticed that your turbo car makes more power in the morning on the way to work than it does on the way home? That's because the morning was cool and the afternoon warmed up. A typical temperature change around here is 20-30 degrees from morning cool to mid-day heat. That's about the same temperature differential we're discussing when comparing a true cold air source vs air from directly behind the radiator or air drawn from the engine bay. There is a balance between the appropriate length, diameter, and number of bends in the piping and the temperature delta, but cooler air is ALWAYS better unless it is being sucked through a twisty straw.

Guys spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on upgraded intercoolers to shed a few degrees because it works, why would you ever suck in hot air when the cooler stuff is only a foot or two away and virtually FREE?

 

[hornsfan10609]

$260 for an injen isn't free, but I see your point. I have an injen in my garage but I prefer my SRI.

 

[thepope540]

$260 for an injen isn't free, but I see your point. I have an injen in my garage but I prefer my SRI.

Injen is an example of getting cold air, but a REALLY expensive one. You can accomplish the same thing with $30 in ebay aluminum bends.

 

[TURBOJ1]

I don't normally do this, but you're flat out wrong here. Yes there are high horsepower cars with filters on their turbos, but that doesn't make it the right decision for all cars. This is dependent on the location of the turbo and the heat sources around it. If our turbo was over by the frame, away from the manifold and NOT behind the radiator I would be all for short or no piping. Our car isn't setup that way.

Have you ever noticed that your turbo car makes more power in the morning on the way to work than it does on the way home? That's because the morning was cool and the afternoon warmed up. A typical temperature change around here is 20-30 degrees from morning cool to mid-day heat. That's about the same temperature differential we're discussing when comparing a true cold air source vs air from directly behind the radiator or air drawn from the engine bay. There is a balance between the appropriate length, diameter, and number of bends in the piping and the temperature delta, but cooler air is ALWAYS better unless it is being sucked through a twisty straw.

Guys spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on upgraded intercoolers to shed a few degrees because it works, why would you ever suck in hot air when the cooler stuff is only a foot or two away and virtually FREE?

Pope....No worries bro, What I was trying to do is emphasize that he should not spend maad $$$ on something that's gonna net him 2-3 more hp?..... You're comment is PARTIALLY correct, MOST of that cool air response would be from your intercooler being waaaaay more efficient when it's cool vs being heat soaked, and not "really" from that air intake. Besides it does not matter if you have installed a cold air intake, when the air gets compressed by the turbo molecules friction releases heat by physics.
Most things ppl. theorize on here I've physically done it, so I can tell you for a FACT you'll gain a couple hp, not woth spending 1,2,3 hundred bucks what so ever.....OP Also FWIW, whatever you decide to do, just make sure it's easy to get to

 

[BrianM3GS]

... You're comment is PARTIALLY correct...
Besides it does not matter if you have installed a cold air intake, when the air gets compressed by the turbo molecules friction releases heat by physics.
Most things ppl. theorize on here I've physically done it, so I can tell you for a FACT you'll gain a couple hp...

Your comment is partially correct: the intake air temperature does matter, because heating due to turbo compression raises the charge temperature by a temperature differential dependent on compression - not to a specific temperature - and so starting cooler means coming out cooler; "when the air gets compressed by the turbo molecules friction releases heat" is nonsense, not physics - molecular motion is heat, and compression heating is unrelated to friction. I don't question that the cold air intake may not produce a large power improvement - there's no conflict between theory and practice here.

 

[TURBOJ1]

Your comment is partially correct: the intake air temperature does matter, because heating due to turbo compression raises the charge temperature by a temperature differential dependent on compression - not to a specific temperature - and so starting cooler means coming out cooler; "when the air gets compressed by the turbo molecules friction releases heat" is nonsense, not physics - molecular motion is heat, and compression heating is unrelated to friction. I don't question that the cold air intake may not produce a large power improvement - there's no conflict between theory and practice here.

(crazy)