MS3 Boost Gauge Install

where did u run it? mine did that and i had to buy new tubing...10 ft for 1.00

I have an electric gauge so my tubing is in the front near my SRI, about oh, 2ft of it at most, from the Y out to the sender unit, and the clear plastic tubing is beginning to 'flatten' out, I assume from being very well sealed and under vacuum a lot... Yes?

I wonder if I should just go buy more now and pre-emptively shock and awe the impending tubing failure?
 
I cant get the damn top part of the pillar off! Whats the trick to popping off that funny clip?
 
I cant get the damn top part of the pillar off! Whats the trick to popping off that funny clip?

Ooo Oooo I know this one!

You can't pop the clip off, it just pops 'out'. So once you've got it out, about 1" in the air, you have to pull backwards toward your rear window and roof, with your hand under the top edge of the pillar so the plastic corners don't do anything ill to your roof upholstery. The clip stays and the pillar slides off of it; there is a groove at the top that clip goes into. All these people worried about the pillar 'shooting off' and the gauge hitting the window or them are really over-reacting. The pillar 'pops' out about an inch to that clip's maximum height and the airbags push out the slit between the pillar and the car frame. If you take 5 minutes to look at stuff under there it's really apparent and you'll have no compunctions about putting a gauge down there, so long as your screws don't bite bag and you aren't too high up.
 
i cant see thos pictures......could you plz attach them again?

it will be very helpfulll




First I cut the hose connected to the top BOV and spliced a T connector to rejoin the hose. I also added the hose i was going to connect directly to my boost gauge. I used about 10 feet of hose which was more than enough to run it clean and not have to much left over to have to hide.

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Then I found where the "bunch O' wires went through the fire wall into the cabin so i didnt need to drill another hole into the firewall. (we all probably know how much fun that is.)

To get to the Wires from the engine bay you have to remove a few things first. Lets start out with the AC piping. Just take off the tiny nut to move the pipe to the right, out of the way.

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Then Remove the bolt that holds on the heat shield and bend it just far enough out of the way so you can access the wire bunch in the engine bay

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Look at that. The bunch o' wires. You might want to run your hose how you want it in the engine bay at this time because youre not going to have the end of the tube anymore.

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To access the wires from inside the car you have to first sit in the passenger seat and remove the decretive moulding that runs over the clock screen and goes all the way to the glove box. To remove it just open the glove box and tug on the center until it pops out. be careful because the end towards the passenger door need to be pulled back by bending the piece a little. its pretty bendy so go ahead just be careful. the side by the clock just pops out but also be careful. it does take a little pulling.

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Take out the two screws to the glove box and just pull the glove box from the bottom and it will just pop the whole thing out. also, the light is still
connected to the glove box so take that out. its just one screw.

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Behind the glove box is a huge array of fuses and such. to the upper right hand corner is the wire bunch. see? Thats where the hose will run through so it never leaves your dash. just poke a little hole in the boot to slide the tubing through. i did it from the outside because you dont have the wires in the way. Then go back inside and try to stick your finger through it to see if you made a hole and pass the tube through the hole. (its a small pain in the butt but not terrible.)

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Now that the tubing is in the car, take the two screws out from the radio and pull the radio out. the radio and thermo knobs are two different units so the clock face and radio will come together as one big unit. Pull out the wires that are attached to the radio and put the radio somewhere you wont bonk it up.

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The big harness you removed from the radio will have a bunch of wires going into it. (captain obvious) I found the wire that runs with the parking lights. Its the orange wire with the back strip on the right hand side of the harness. cut and splice your positive wire into it for the gauges light. If you know any other lights that run with the parking lights go ahead and tap into those, but i used my radios lights. I grounded my gauge to the shifter assembly as i was putting in my bushings but you can do it anywhere you have bare metal.

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Check your set up...nice and clean, almost not even there!

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Thats how i installed mine with my lotek gauge pod. what do ya think? not to shabby right? Just reassemble everything the way you removed it and it will look all like new. The gauge pod looks a little off color but my grubby hands were all over it all day so once i used some F1 protectant it looks good as new.

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Im in the process of figuring out how to make the pods look less "attached". I dont like the screw caps that stick up. although it doesnt look to bad Im in the process of solutions.

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You can see my apexi TT i mounted to the left of the steering wheel in that empty spot. It looks pretty sweet. No install pics though. sorry....

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If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask.
 
He lost the pictures so they are never coming back (posted earlier in the thread). The instructions are still applicable and it is pretty easy to install. I installed a prosport mechanical into an a-pillar pod a week ago.

Some hints ... if you do not want to cut into wiring then just buy some "Add-a-circuits" at autozone. These will allow you to piggy back off any circuit in the fuse box.

And there is a grommet on the driver's side that the hood cable release runs through. I had no problems running vacuum hose through there so you should be fine with mechanical or electric in which case you will only be running wires through there.
 
He lost the pictures so they are never coming back (posted earlier in the thread). The instructions are still applicable and it is pretty easy to install. I installed a prosport mechanical into an a-pillar pod a week ago.

Some hints ... if you do not want to cut into wiring then just buy some "Add-a-circuits" at autozone. These will allow you to piggy back off any circuit in the fuse box.

And there is a grommet on the driver's side that the hood cable release runs through. I had no problems running vacuum hose through there so you should be fine with mechanical or electric in which case you will only be running wires through there.

Yup. If you go this route you can wire the thing in a few minutes.
 
Ok guys see that some of you have oil pressure gauges can you post a pic of were you tapped the sensor in on the engine thanks
 
Damn! This sounds like rocket science :( I'm thinking it would be easier to just pay someone 50$ to do it for me
 
is there any way these pictures can get revived? also, does anyone know where I can get a single pillar pod such as his?
 
earlier in the posts somewhere i said i lost all the pics. i actually got angry at one point that it kept being asked. pics are gonzo. all you need for the lighting is an accessory wire so when you turn on your lights the gauges will click on too. then run your wires either through the driver firewall somewhere or take out the glove box and use the slot where all the wires run out of the boot. follow my directions in the beginning and these best you can. good luck.
 
i ran the the hose right under the steering wheel where the hood release cable , and its closer and easier.....
 
mazdaspeed32007, I think you should simply rip apart your dash and take all new pics and then create a new account and host them.

I'll wait.
 
For those of you who did add-a-circuits, can you also tap the front fuse box instead of the glovebox fuse box? I would imagine that it's easier that way.
 
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