MPI Tunner Issue
- Thread starter igdrasil
- Start date
1st day impression
Just for the record, a reset to the ECU, a beavis map uploaded, started the car and idle is just fine. Im not into tunning yet until a few hundred miles go on the odomoter, but driving around is smooth, a lot smoother than last week.
I found a couple of wires that were possible candidates to be faulty on the ignition side. Those were cut, and clamped again.
Im using the FM clamp, TM is only clamping ACT (AIT)...(remember the TM coolant/AIT/O2 clamp was designed to add even more fuel thru the stock injectors when boost is detected. Im only adding fue thru extra injectors so...the clamp is not needed for my setup.
Just for the record, a reset to the ECU, a beavis map uploaded, started the car and idle is just fine. Im not into tunning yet until a few hundred miles go on the odomoter, but driving around is smooth, a lot smoother than last week.
I found a couple of wires that were possible candidates to be faulty on the ignition side. Those were cut, and clamped again.
Im using the FM clamp, TM is only clamping ACT (AIT)...(remember the TM coolant/AIT/O2 clamp was designed to add even more fuel thru the stock injectors when boost is detected. Im only adding fue thru extra injectors so...the clamp is not needed for my setup.
So are you going to tune with the stock injectors now? If not, then why did you cut the MAF wire and run it through the MPI??? That step is not needed if you don't want to manipulate the MAF signal.
If all is well after everything you just did, I suggest that the clamps be replaced with solder or something. They are good for short term, but they do work loose over time.
If all is well after everything you just did, I suggest that the clamps be replaced with solder or something. They are good for short term, but they do work loose over time.
UPDATE Sept 10, 2004:
AFTER 250 miles on the rewiring....the MPI is now working PERFECT.
The car is behaving like it should. No more hesitations, no more issues at all. It was a wiring problem.
NO STALLS
NO FUEL CUTS
NO STRANGE MAPS OR BEHAVIOR
NO MORE RE-TUNNING HAD TO BE DONE!!!!!!
The car now runs the same A/Fs dialed.
Thanks everyone.
AFTER 250 miles on the rewiring....the MPI is now working PERFECT.
The car is behaving like it should. No more hesitations, no more issues at all. It was a wiring problem.
NO STALLS
NO FUEL CUTS
NO STRANGE MAPS OR BEHAVIOR
NO MORE RE-TUNNING HAD TO BE DONE!!!!!!
The car now runs the same A/Fs dialed.
Thanks everyone.
I am very glad to hear this. Thank you for taking the time to hunt down problems with your car. I know some people have got sick of hearing me keep posting about fixing other problems with their car and not the MPI Tuner. Now you can start to add boost and have fun.igdrasil said:
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
Its the inexperience I (maybe "we") have, its just frustrating sometimes. So far on record, its always been my fault- human error. The MPI has yet to be at fault.
I wish I could blame it because of my inexperience, but I can't. Its a great system.
I wish I could blame it because of my inexperience, but I can't. Its a great system.
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
exactly. 14.7 under no boost is PERFECT. stoich. You don't WANT to run anything other than 14.5-15.5 under no boost!!!!
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
well, i can fully understand running rich under boost, which is what i do, but under normal operations, thats how the car runs. Cars just run at 14.7 (or they will do whatever to run 14.7) under normal conditions. Adding more fuel will IMO, sometimes cause hesitation and excessive carbon buildup. I'd rather run all zeros down low (which is what im doing now)
I USED to add fuel when not needed, and my car was boggy and my gas mileage WAS CRAP. lol.
I USED to add fuel when not needed, and my car was boggy and my gas mileage WAS CRAP. lol.
As far as my tunning is...I run 14.7 all around when vacuum is present.
And damn PIG rich (near 10:1 as soon as I go into boost in low rpms) this will make the turbo build up faster , or I must say, JUMP, and the pull is very very good. Then will go to 12-11:1.
Although some people just like to go raising fuel a bit slower, dumping fuel as soon as the 1st psi is built will give you a nice pull.
I will retune this thing, just because my plugs are dying and I cleaned my MAF.
And damn PIG rich (near 10:1 as soon as I go into boost in low rpms) this will make the turbo build up faster , or I must say, JUMP, and the pull is very very good. Then will go to 12-11:1.
Although some people just like to go raising fuel a bit slower, dumping fuel as soon as the 1st psi is built will give you a nice pull.
I will retune this thing, just because my plugs are dying and I cleaned my MAF.
- :
- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
Just to let youknow..that if and when you initially hit boost...If you are dumping 10:1 a/f fuel..The turbo will not spool fasteer..infact it will create more lag.igdrasil said:
When you enter into boost you want to hit 12's a/f..Which is where you will feel the car pull like a mother ******! at 10's you are flooding the combustion chamber..and loosing HP!
Chas
