MPI Tunner Issue
- Thread starter igdrasil
- Start date
Dude your numbers here are insane, are you saying these number just showed up from some flaw in the software? Or did you prgram these in? I.E. going from -1 to 112 or from -5 to -127
????
????
igdrasil said:Whats this....The car starts nice...drives normally, I stop to do something, shutoff and restart and as I drive it the car feels too damn erratic. So I connect the laptop to the tunner and this is what I see.
Whats supposed to mean?
Sorry, meant to quote you.
-Linux
smp3000 said:
Same here, I actually thought that there was something mechanically wrong with my car untill I disconnected the MPI tuner and reset the PCM. It was night and day different when I turned the car back on... idle was way more consistant and it wouldn't just all the sudden randomly jump up to 17+ on my wideband.
I wouldn't say my situation has changed I just never bitched about the idle or the jumping feeling of the TM turning on. I'm actually really happy with the product. Works WAYYYY better then the RRFPR ever did.
I just need to do more tuning. There are a few areas I need to pull some more timing, some where I need to pull some fuel and some where I need to add it. It just takes time and a lot of testing. But I'm confident in the product and that it can do a hell of a job.
I just need to do more tuning. There are a few areas I need to pull some more timing, some where I need to pull some fuel and some where I need to add it. It just takes time and a lot of testing. But I'm confident in the product and that it can do a hell of a job.
Maybe you are getting different maps uploaded to the MPI. I don't know how this could happen, but maybe it is. Delete all maps in the tuner folder except the ones you use. Also disable Norton and anything else you don't use while tuning. I had a problem with an older version of MS office that caused mine to lock up and not let me save files. The MPI SW somehow may confict with some of those files, remember the MPI is based off of DOS and the SW was written for windows, so maybe it isn't using the same DOS that windows uses.
I have my laptop for tuning that has the same SW that you listed and I have no problems saving maps, I am even using a USB converter. Sometimes it's a little slow saving them, but it works. Try to disable everything you don't use and even the little icons in the bottom right.
When you deleted the program, did you uninstall it? If so did you reboot after doing it? Then was the tuner directiry gone? If all of this happened, and you reinstalled it you should of been good. Try to remove the extra maps to make sure they can't get uploaded and reset the box itself through the SW and start fresh. RECHECK YOUR WIRING!!!!!!
To the others having issues during idle and such, I know I have said it before, but I have ZERO issues in closed loop. The thing runs EXACTLY like stock and has done so for many months without any tuning. The switch point was tuned out so it is a smooth transition on and off boost. I don't get any surging anymore and I am still a little rich. I can't understand how you are getting learning and I am not??? Maybe it's the stock ECU, I still have the MP3 one in with no probs. Good luck to everyone who is having issues. If you need help, I can try. It's been over a year for me with this thing and it has never run as good as it is now!
I have my laptop for tuning that has the same SW that you listed and I have no problems saving maps, I am even using a USB converter. Sometimes it's a little slow saving them, but it works. Try to disable everything you don't use and even the little icons in the bottom right.
When you deleted the program, did you uninstall it? If so did you reboot after doing it? Then was the tuner directiry gone? If all of this happened, and you reinstalled it you should of been good. Try to remove the extra maps to make sure they can't get uploaded and reset the box itself through the SW and start fresh. RECHECK YOUR WIRING!!!!!!
To the others having issues during idle and such, I know I have said it before, but I have ZERO issues in closed loop. The thing runs EXACTLY like stock and has done so for many months without any tuning. The switch point was tuned out so it is a smooth transition on and off boost. I don't get any surging anymore and I am still a little rich. I can't understand how you are getting learning and I am not??? Maybe it's the stock ECU, I still have the MP3 one in with no probs. Good luck to everyone who is having issues. If you need help, I can try. It's been over a year for me with this thing and it has never run as good as it is now!
my car runs pefect always.. i have yet to upgrade to the new software, and i just control xtra injectors and timing... i honestly havent adjusted my fuel map in 3 months.
Makes me scared to upgrade/update my tuner. In the past 3 months i have also put well over 5k miles on the car.
Makes me scared to upgrade/update my tuner. In the past 3 months i have also put well over 5k miles on the car.
as of now I feel the car is running geat on my current maps. We all just have different situations. The best gas I can get is 91 and I live in one of the hottes places on earth.. So my maps will differ and my problems will be different than a lot of peoples here.
Currently it's my clutch giving out that's givingme problems- not the mpi... I can handle the idle and switch surge because I am sure eventually I will have them ironed out. Remember I've only had this unit for 2 months. Tim's had it a year and he's just got it all worked out.... It takes time.
Currently it's my clutch giving out that's givingme problems- not the mpi... I can handle the idle and switch surge because I am sure eventually I will have them ironed out. Remember I've only had this unit for 2 months. Tim's had it a year and he's just got it all worked out.... It takes time.
Right now i'm idling int he 13's and it's not jumping around much... But sometimes at a stoplight ?I'll look and all of a sudden it will be idling in the 16's... Ten I'll pop the gass a little and it will reset back to the 13's.. The thing that worries me is that usually it will stay that way for a few weeks and then all of a sudden lean out and I'll have to adjust the 1x16 analog again to get it back intot he 13-14 range... Let's hope that's not the case this time.
Focus said:
Right now it's in the 13's but I plan on changing a few things to try to be in the 14-15 range... That is where I feel is best for it to idle. I'm just still getting used to knowing where all the numbers actually effect the performance.
I've never actually tuned while driving- since I've never had a laptop that had a working battery and still haven't gotten a power inverter. So All my changes have been made in the garage- and then I go on test runs. Sometimes testing each change for a few days at a time before I make another.
It will be nice to get my new laptop from work!!!! Athlon 64 3200 15.4 inch with DVD writer!! ahaha
I've never actually tuned while driving- since I've never had a laptop that had a working battery and still haven't gotten a power inverter. So All my changes have been made in the garage- and then I go on test runs. Sometimes testing each change for a few days at a time before I make another.
It will be nice to get my new laptop from work!!!! Athlon 64 3200 15.4 inch with DVD writer!! ahaha
yes.... this has been a problem of mine as well. Initially when we installed the MPI on the car it died at every red light and everytime it'd go under 1K. We thought right away it was my IAC valve (ignition air control) and figured I needed a new one... About a week passed and after installing new spark plugs and adjusting the idle to idle a little higher the stalling problems slowed and it seemed as I tuned the car more and more they went away completley.
Of course I looked into getting anew IAC valve.... But do you know how much they cost? $550.00!!!!! Forget that!!
I'm guessing it had nothing to do with it.. The MPI and the ECU just didn't agree for a while. But I did what I had to do in order to get it to stop stalling- so just having an inconsistent idle is heaven compared to what I was going through.
Of course I looked into getting anew IAC valve.... But do you know how much they cost? $550.00!!!!! Forget that!!
I'm guessing it had nothing to do with it.. The MPI and the ECU just didn't agree for a while. But I did what I had to do in order to get it to stop stalling- so just having an inconsistent idle is heaven compared to what I was going through.
Again...its temperamental.
I dont understand....
I DONT HAVE TO RETUNE THIS THING EVERYTIME IT NEEDS TO.
I have to constantly re-tune this thing because one day runs normal and the next day or next hour runs lean..
What if i see it running rich on one run, and then I nail again and runs lean and BOOOM!!!
I dont know....MPNick also blew the MSP that had forged internals and the MPI. so....i dont know what to think.
I dont understand....
I DONT HAVE TO RETUNE THIS THING EVERYTIME IT NEEDS TO.
I have to constantly re-tune this thing because one day runs normal and the next day or next hour runs lean..
What if i see it running rich on one run, and then I nail again and runs lean and BOOOM!!!
I dont know....MPNick also blew the MSP that had forged internals and the MPI. so....i dont know what to think.
Not that I know of. The MSP with forged internals is still making power. Last I heard it was up to 328whp.igdrasil said:
I can tell you this from experience, a FS engine with forged goodies is one tough cookie. We had a guy here in a P5 running 20 lbs of boost and nitrous running ( found out later ) with a defective fuel pressure regulator. He blew all of the hoses off the engine, tore a silicone coupling off the intercooler from back pressure and not a single thing happened to the engine. In my books that is one tough engine.
