MPI Tuner Library

[acidbug]

I will be at the shop today as well.

Glad to see that Rich fixed his problem. I personally think the most important part of Tuning the Software. Is having all of the wires installed correctly.

Also..If anyone gets a cel. You should pull the code. and reset it asap. I have noticed that when the CEL is on the car/mpi tuner don't work as well b/c the oem ecu adds a bunch more fuel & throws all your numbers off.

Chas

 

[LinuxRacr]

Yeah, I do this everytime I see it instantly with the PDA Dyno. Bye-Bye CEL!

 

[KzA]

ok..so can I get a recap? I would like to correct this wiring on my own setup..My idle was INSANE for a while now and I cant find any type of vacuum leak.

What is the Correct way to Wire the Turbo Module?

Also, if I was to install an Aftermarket Temp Gauge, where would I splce into in order to get a nontampered reading? Obviously it would be the wire before the module and Tuner(untampered) but which color combo?

 

[acidbug]

ok..so can I get a recap? I would like to correct this wiring on my own setup..My idle was INSANE for a while now and I cant find any type of vacuum leak.

What is the Correct way to Wire the Turbo Module?

Also, if I was to install an Aftermarket Temp Gauge, where would I splce into in order to get a nontampered reading? Obviously it would be the wire before the module and Tuner(untampered) but which color combo?

My idle..was bad..when i first installed the tuner. My idle box. had +4 fuel & +3 timing.

I took both of those down to 0. Than adjust the fuel slightly..and it fixed my idle. It took many attempts to get it perfect. Now the car idles great. That's even with the Engine Fan & Airconditioning on!(yippy)

The fix for the Turbo Module. The install instruction tell you tap into a wire going to the ecu. I think it was pin 88 or something. Which was incorrect. To fix the problem..connect the Red Wire (+12v when car is running) to the same wire as the power wire for the MPI Tuner.

To get an accurate reading of the Temp. YOu need to tap into the wire before the MPI tuner. This way you will get unaltered readings.

Same goes for your A/F guage. If it's hooked up after the mpi tuner..You will get incorrect readings. You have to tap before the mpi tuner.

Chas(RTM)

 

[LinuxRacr]

To get an accurate reading of the Temp. YOu need to tap into the wire before the MPI tuner. This way you will get unaltered readings.

Same goes for your A/F guage. If it's hooked up after the mpi tuner..You will get incorrect readings. You have to tap before the mpi tuner.

Chas(RTM)

This right here....I will go back and check this on my setup.... (hmm)

 

[LinuxRacr]

Chas,

Do you have a current screenshot of your current map? I wanna compare since you are also running the stock injectors.

 

[LinuxRacr]

To get an accurate reading of the Temp. YOu need to tap into the wire before the MPI tuner. This way you will get unaltered readings.

Same goes for your A/F guage. If it's hooked up after the mpi tuner..You will get incorrect readings. You have to tap before the mpi tuner.

Chas(RTM)

Accually, Chas, could you elaborate on the location of the taps you are referring to? Should they be closer to the engine side BEFORE the MPI Tuner, or closer to the stock ECU BEFORE the MPI Tuner? Common sense would have me believe it would be closer to the engine side. (scratch)

 

[505zoom]

Nope, no luck here. I just removed the brown/black wire from the temp wire and it still is overheating. It seems like it's just a false reading though, my car usually takes about 5 minutes before it is to the center of the temp gauge, and it only took about 30 seconds to get there today. If the gauge is reading correct, I think I might have a serious issue here.

 

[igdrasil]

Nope, no luck here. I just removed the brown/black wire from the temp wire and it still is overheating. It seems like it's just a false reading though, my car usually takes about 5 minutes before it is to the center of the temp gauge, and it only took about 30 seconds to get there today. If the gauge is reading correct, I think I might have a serious issue here.

Looks like you have a wiring problem...that usually happens when the switch is ON...when triggered.

Check for short circuits...you are sending a false signal to the ECU.

 

[505zoom]

I would think that it has to be wiring because the radiator cap isn't even hot when the gauge is past halfway. I guess I'll try to rewire the entire temp circuit and see what happens.

 

[505zoom]

Ok, now I am stumped.(scratch) I disconnected the purple clamp wires and set that circuit back to stock and the car wouldn't even turn over. So I reconnected the purple clamp wires and then just for kicks reconnected the red turbo module wire back to the way it was before the new fix.

Everything works now... er should I say that it is back to the way it was. Idle speed is back to normal, but the idle AFR is all over the place again. Temp rose slowly over a few minutes and then stayed at halfway.

I don't understand how just changing the red turbo module wire could do all of this. I tapped into the blue wire like Nick said in his PM, but I am thinking that maybe I need to tap into the same *source* as the blue wire, not the blue wire itself. Does that make any sense to you guys?

 

[igdrasil]

I tapped on the blue wire...Im going to re-check my wires and post it here.

 

[505zoom]

Okay, now it is working properly (thanks a lot Chas). I had my switch point set super low so the turbo module was kicking on at idle causing the idle to go up and the temp gauge to read incorrect. I had to set the AMP switch point to 1.30 to get it to kick off, but as soon as I heard that click the idle went to normal and the temp gauge dropped to halfway.

Super stoked now.(yippy) I set my RPM switch point at 3500 and revved the car, and I could hear the turbo module click on and see the AFR drop. Time to start the tuning over.(rockon)

I still need some help getting the sensor calibration dialed in though. If any of you guys would post a pic of your calibration screen that would be awesome.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Yeah, I see you called me today while I was sleep. Sorry man, I had left my phone by the computer in the other room. When I went to sleep, my computer was still sending an e-mail to MPNick, so I didn't have the phone by the bed like usual. GPRS...gotta love it!

 

[505zoom]

No problem at all man. I am very pleased with today's progress. As soon as I can get the sensor cal done, I will be set to go. The car is running soooo much better now.

 

[igdrasil]

rpm switch point????

 

[505zoom]

rpm switch point????

Yup, the new key unlocks 3 new switch point options. RPM, deflection, and temp... AMP is still there also. The turbo module now switches every time that I hit any of the switch points. This instantly drops the AFR about 2 points on my wideband. Working great now.

PM me if you need that new key.

 

[igdrasil]

Yup, the new key unlocks 3 new switch point options. RPM, deflection, and temp... AMP is still there also. The turbo module now switches every time that I hit any of the switch points. This instantly drops the AFR about 2 points on my wideband. Working great now.

PM me if you need that new key.

Ooops...I dont have that....looks like a new key right?

 

[505zoom]

Ooops...I dont have that....looks like a new key right?

Just got it last night.

PM me your email addy and I will send it to you.

 

[Little Beavis]

I'm getting forgetful now - or maybe I'm not. . .the switch occurs when any of the four set values are exceeded, but doesn't turn off until all four are below the set values. Right?