MPI Tuner Anyone?

[acidbug]

So you can be the fastest thing not moving?

(rofl2)

What would be the point of retarding the timing at neutral? And how would that help spooling? I think the only way to help in neutral would be to advance the timing..which would put more of a load on the car..and as everyone knows..the larger the load the faster spooling will happen!

Chas

 

[Kooldino]

I have the same issue now with stock injectors. What I have been doing lately is turning the key to the on position for about 4-5 seconds before accually cranking. It starts right up.

I tried that one time to test my "coils/mpi not getting enough power after sitting too long" theory, but it didn't make a difference. I'll try a longer duration next time.

 

[acidbug]

How do you know they were lean pops? Why couldn't they be pops for running too rich? Also, my wideband was reading right around stoich, so my A:F was fine.


What would I possibly have to adjust? I've had the above mods since april and it was never a problem.


What's there to tune? The problem never exsisted before the grey box went in. And there shouldn't be anything to tune. My ignition is stock until the RPM's get high...and I'm only controlling aftermarket injectors. So being that I have not changed any variables in the software that would effect a cold start, the only thing I could imagine it being is the grey box that is now in line with the ignition.

If I were running lean, the car would still start. If I were running rich, the car would still start. I just think that on occasion, there's some little glitch with the circuitry that doesn't give the coils enough juice at first. Why else would it start perfectly the second time I tried? I didn't change any variables...

i get the pops also..it rarely happens..but when i does..it usually after my car has warmed up..and has been driven for atleast 1 hours..

Not sure why..but i think that nick is right and it has to do with being to lean..b/c my a/f guage reads lean when it happens!

Chas

 

[Kooldino]

If you are talking about Dana, he needs to tune his fuel with the MAF.

How in the world would that change my occasional start hesiation? Can't you at least be open to the possibility of my theory being correct? I think it's a hell of a lot more likely my theory than the fact that I'm not tuning via MAF. If I was having habitual startup issues, and it wasn't idling right, that would be one thing.

 

[Kooldino]

It's goota be your battery. I had to replace my battery a month or so ago, and it turns over right away.

Kooldino-- is yours new or old?

My battery is stock. My car turns over right away, usually. ON OCCASION, it's just about to "turn over" and then it dies completely. I crank it again, there's plenty of juice, and it completes the turnover.

 

[Kooldino]

So you can be the fastest thing not moving?

That would require EXTREME retard. You'd have to run stand alone ignition to do that.

 

[Kooldino]

(rofl2)

What would be the point of retarding the timing at neutral? And how would that help spooling? I think the only way to help in neutral would be to advance the timing..which would put more of a load on the car..and as everyone knows..the larger the load the faster spooling will happen!

Chas

If you retard the timing A LOT, it will basically cause a blow torch effect through your exhaust manifold, spooling the hell out of the turbo.

 

[Kooldino]

i get the pops also..it rarely happens..but when i does..it usually after my car has warmed up..and has been driven for atleast 1 hours..

Not sure why..but i think that nick is right and it has to do with being to lean..b/c my a/f guage reads lean when it happens!

Chas

I don't get pops that I know of. Because my A:F ratio is ALWAYS STOICH, unless i'm on boost.

 

[MPNick]

I don't get pops that I know of. Because my A:F ratio is ALWAYS STOICH, unless i'm on boost.

What does your AFR meter tell you at cold cranking?


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

 

[MPNick]

That would require EXTREME retard. You'd have to run stand alone ignition to do that.

It can be done without a stand alone.


Thanks again


Later...Nick

 

[MPNick]

No i cant advance timing... so i am assuming that i am using the cranksensor..

Yes if you are still using the crankshaft setup you may get a small kickback sometimes when you start the car. A bad battery does not help the cause.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

 

[MPNick]

Nick, how much timing your unit can retard.

Can I do enough retard with a switch to spool up the turbo in neutral?

If and when you are ready for the system we will have this done, but not this week.


Thanks again


Later...Nick

 

[MPNick]

How do you know they were lean pops? Why couldn't they be pops for running too rich? Also, my wideband was reading right around stoich, so my A:F was fine.


What would I possibly have to adjust? I've had the above mods since april and it was never a problem.


What's there to tune? The problem never exsisted before the grey box went in. And there shouldn't be anything to tune. My ignition is stock until the RPM's get high...and I'm only controlling aftermarket injectors. So being that I have not changed any variables in the software that would effect a cold start, the only thing I could imagine it being is the grey box that is now in line with the ignition.

If I were running lean, the car would still start. If I were running rich, the car would still start. I just think that on occasion, there's some little glitch with the circuitry that doesn't give the coils enough juice at first. Why else would it start perfectly the second time I tried? I didn't change any variables...

When did you install your turbo system and high flow exhaust system? Are you still running both cats? Are you still running the stock air cleaner box? When we installed the MPI Tuner we also ran a vent hose from the valve cover to the inlet pipe. I am talking about fuel calibration and changes made to your car. Do you think you can make all of the changes that you have done to your car from stock and still keep the perfect fuel calibration?

WB guys will learn at some point down the road that if you live by the WB you may die by the WB.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

 

[MPNick]

My battery is stock. My car turns over right away, usually. ON OCCASION, it's just about to "turn over" and then it dies completely. I crank it again, there's plenty of juice, and it completes the turnover.

You posted that it was only a problem when it is very cold and it did happen a few times. It sounds like you may have to add fuel at cranking.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

 

[70]

You posted that it was only a problem when it is very cold and it did happen a few times. It sounds like you may have to add fuel at cranking.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

Um, why would he have a cold start issue? You said the MPI Tuner doesn't have any effect there, the stock ECU controls it all?

I'm confused by this.

And by the wideband comment.

WB guys will learn at some point down the road that if you live by the WB you may die by the WB.

A WB band O2 sensor is a heck of a lot more accurate in determining the A/F ratio then your rear end dyno.

 

[MPNick]

Um, why would he have a cold start issue? You said the MPI Tuner doesn't have any effect there, the stock ECU controls it all?

I'm confused by this.

And by the wideband comment.


A WB band O2 sensor is a heck of a lot more accurate in determining the A/F ratio then your rear end dyno.

I do not know that he has a cold start issue with the MPI Tuner. He posted that sometimes when it is really cold it would almost start the first try. I have ask a few questions about his set up and I have also posted about things to check for that may cause the problem. I remember when Big Tim had a stalling problem right after he installed his turbo kit. It turned out to be that he needed to install the valve cover breather hose back into the inlet tube. Did Dana have the turbo kit on his car this time last year, I do not know and he has not post if he did or not. Pat has the same problem and he has the stock computer only on his car.

When you make changes to your car you need to adjust for it. You do not read a book and install a wide band and become a tuner. I see that alot of people have some type of wide band sensor. How many of them have learned how to tune a car yet, it takes time to learn. A wide band will not tell you your air fuel at cold cranking. You need to make a change and crank over the car. Then you see if it helped out. If not you have to wait for it to cool back down to cold and try it again. You may have to make a few changes before it is right. Tim has no wide band, I do not tune with a wide band and we have no problems with cold starting. Dana has a wide band and when it is really cold it does not start the very first crank. You make the call there.


Thanks again


Later..........Nick

 

[Little Beavis]

Did Dana have the turbo kit on his car this time last year, I do not know and he has not post if he did or not.

Dana DID NOT have a turbo a year ago. He received his kit in April 2003. So, the earliest he had it installed was towards the latter half of April.

 

[Micah]

Dana DID NOT have a turbo a year ago. He received his kit in April. So, the earliest he had it installed was towards the latter half of April.

Yep, that sounds about right. I had purchased his cars original Racing Beat Exhaust Muffler. He was going to show me how the car was with the turbo, but when I got there he said that he was having problems with it, and didn't want to drive it until he had things figured out. If I remember correctly he was also installing his WBO2 at the time. I think I helped him fish a wire through the firewall.

Dana is a really kewl guy, definitely one of the more interesting members of this forum.

 

[Kooldino]

What does your AFR meter tell you at cold cranking?

It doesn't read while it's cranking, because the engine isn't on yet.

 

[Kooldino]

It can be done without a stand alone.

You're right actually...my fried with a TurboXS piggyback can retard it enough.

I'm just not sure if my piggy can the way it's set up...I hear that you can only retard timing so far before the ECU freaks. Paul had issues with it before, but then again, he's set up slightly different.