MPI Tuner Anyone?

[MPNick]

werd... i have the same issue... it always starts first try, but sometimes it takes the xtra second or so to crank over.. I thought it was because my battery sucks... which it does.

Are you driving the coils or are you still using the crankshaft sensor? Can you add timing?


Thanks again


Later........Nick

 

[MPNick]

i believe his car start up right away i think it was mainly with the 440cc he had problems.

This is my whole point from the start. Bigger injectors mean problems. The bigger the injector the bigger problem and the harder it is to tune. For most people 440cc are just to small. Now if the problems were small with 440cc they would be bigger with 550cc and what would happen with 650cc? I do not care if it is PnP or cut and solder. The bigger the injector the more time tuning and the problems to tune for. You would need one map for the best cold weather and another for the best hot weather. You would need to make one for the best around town driving and another for best highway. As for inspection you still have to hope and a pray.

This is why i say keep the stock injector to run the car when you are not in boost. As you come on boost you start adding the extra injectors. If you do not like them in the throttle body you can put them in the intake runners.


Thanks again


later.........Nick

 

[LinuxRacr]

werd... i have the same issue... it always starts first try, but sometimes it takes the xtra second or so to crank over.. I thought it was because my battery sucks... which it does.

I have the same issue now with stock injectors. What I have been doing lately is turning the key to the on position for about 4-5 seconds before accually cranking. It starts right up.

 

[70]

I know when we drove your car it had a few lean pops out of the exhaust. When we added some timing you can hear it more. You have a turbo kit, free flow exhaust system and the stock air filter housing is not there any longer. You need to adjust for that change. Maybe a extra crank when it is real cold is not a problem for some. Why not tune for the problem and get it to start like stock?


Thanks again


Later..............Nick

My understanding of using the MPI Tuner was you wouldn't have to deal with cold start as it was run by the stock ECU.

Is that not the case? It sounds like the MPI Tuner is involved with cold start issues as well.

 

[MPNick]

I have the same issue now with stock injectors. What I have been doing lately is turning the key to the on position for about 4-5 seconds before accually cranking. It starts right up.

Things like this need to be looked at before you install you PRS8. It may be a small problem now, but I have seen after changes that it can become a bigger problem.

Plugs, wires, vacuum leaks,fuel pressure cranking, fuel pressure KOEO, air temp sensor are all thinks that can cause this problem.


Thanks again


later.........Nick

 

[MPNick]

My understanding of using the MPI Tuner was you wouldn't have to deal with cold start as it was run by the stock ECU.

Is that not the case? It sounds like the MPI Tuner is involved with cold start issues as well.

Did you understand what they said about starting their cars. They did not talk about stalling or dumping raw fuel out the exhaust. One has not tune the afr at idle and I do not know what the other has done.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

 

[70]

Did you understand what they said about starting their cars. They did not talk about stalling or dumping raw fuel out the exhaust. One has not tune the afr at idle and I do not know what the other has done.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

Why would there be an issue at idle, if the stock ECU is supposed to be running that as well?

My point is that there are issues with the MPI Tuner, just like there will be with any other piggy back, parallel or stand alone set up. And tuning will deal with most of, if not all of, those issues.

 

[MPNick]

Why would there be an issue at idle, if the stock ECU is supposed to be running that as well?

My point is that there are issues with the MPI Tuner, just like there will be with any other piggy back, parallel or stand alone set up. And tuning will deal with most of, if not all of, those issues.

We are talking about two differrent things here. If you are talking about bigger injectors, then you are talking about getting them to work some where near right.

If you are talking about Dana, he needs to tune his fuel with the MAF. As for Paul I do not think he is setup with the full igniton control. If that is the case he may have a dead crank. This is only with the older setting that are not used anymore.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

 

[hukster00]

i think the problem is that the ecu dosent controle the timing, mpi tuner has full control of the timing/spark, so mpi tuner is piggy back, but for timing it acts like full standalone cuz the timing/spark wires are cut

if from what i read on here is correct

 

[Little Beavis]

i think the problem is that the ecu dosent controle the timing, mpi tuner has full control of the timing/spark, so mpi tuner is piggy back, but for timing it acts like full standalone cuz the timing/spark wires are cut

if from what i read on here is correct

yes and no
It doesn't act like a "standalone" because you don't program in 15 BTDC, but yet, you can advance and retard timing from what the ecu is doing. Full control without having to guess where to start. That's the simple way of putting it I guess. (uhm)

 

[hukster00]

but, mpi tuner controls timing, wich you cut the wires from the ecu so the ecu has no control over the timing right, so that mean that the mpi tuner has full control over the timing wich would make it standalone (just for timing not for fule and other stuff)

 

[igdrasil]

timing AND fuel....all wires are cut. plus other more in order to make adjustments and lie the ECU so it wont pull back changes.

 

[PaulMP3]

Are you driving the coils or are you still using the crankshaft sensor? Can you add timing?


Thanks again


Later........Nick

No i cant advance timing... so i am assuming that i am using the cranksensor..

 

[PaulMP3]

As for Paul I do not think he is setup with the full igniton control. If that is the case he may have a dead crank. This is only with the older setting that are not used anymore.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

How can i upgrade to the new settings... i wouldnt call what i have a problem at all... just it "sometimes: takes a lil longer to start.... most of the time it starts fine. I think it may also have to do with my battery, it isnt that strong. i have had to jump the car, if leaving it sit a few days.. im getting a new battery soon, so i will see.

 

[Bigg Tim]

It's goota be your battery. I had to replace my battery a month or so ago, and it turns over right away.

Kooldino-- is yours new or old?

 

[Micah]

Probably still has the stock battery. Mine does and with a little less than 30k on my car. My cars battery has been drained to dead at least 2 times that I know of. Possibly more. If I am driving in the summer with the a/c on and my stereo pumping the headlights can dim a little.

About cold starts - I've noticed that it's best to turn the key to on and wait a second or two before cranking. 90% of the time I let my alarm start my car for me, and the remote start function does this automatically anyway.

 

[igdrasil]

Nick, how much timing your unit can retard.

Can I do enough retard with a switch to spool up the turbo in neutral?

 

[Micah]

Nick, how much timing your unit can retard.

Can I do enough retard with a switch to spool up the turbo in neutral?

So you can be the fastest thing not moving?

 

[Kooldino]

I haven't had any cold start issues with mine, and I have the 1 step colder plugs in. Kinda wierd, is your battery maybe starting to take a crap?

Nah, the battery is fine.

 

[Kooldino]

I know when we drove your car it had a few lean pops out of the exhaust.

How do you know they were lean pops? Why couldn't they be pops for running too rich? Also, my wideband was reading right around stoich, so my A:F was fine.

When we added some timing you can hear it more. You have a turbo kit, free flow exhaust system and the stock air filter housing is not there any longer. You need to adjust for that change.

What would I possibly have to adjust? I've had the above mods since april and it was never a problem.

Maybe a extra crank when it is real cold is not a problem for some. Why not tune for the problem and get it to start like stock?

What's there to tune? The problem never exsisted before the grey box went in. And there shouldn't be anything to tune. My ignition is stock until the RPM's get high...and I'm only controlling aftermarket injectors. So being that I have not changed any variables in the software that would effect a cold start, the only thing I could imagine it being is the grey box that is now in line with the ignition.

If I were running lean, the car would still start. If I were running rich, the car would still start. I just think that on occasion, there's some little glitch with the circuitry that doesn't give the coils enough juice at first. Why else would it start perfectly the second time I tried? I didn't change any variables...