Microtech Library

sounds like the decel feature... shuts off the injectors when coasting above 2000rpm and over a certain amount of vac.

Yes that sounds exactly like what it could be. I haven't played with those settings. Is it ok to leave it like this since it is only doing it during no load?
 
sounds like the decel feature... shuts off the injectors when coasting above 2000rpm and over a certain amount of vac.

Thanks, that's exactly what it was. I had it set to come on at 22"hg, I realized I had copied this setting from what Steve had. I have it turned off now and everything is back to normal.
 
Yes Light is lit and steady when ign. on when cranking it blinks. Set timing today needed +45 on TimTRM to get mark at the T on plastic cover. Hope thats ok. Also found I am not getting fuel Pump primes my FPG shows 40psi but plugs are dry and no smell of gas, put meter at inj. one and cranked motor no voltage at all, my meter could be to slow though to catch the pulse. Do have 12volts to ground from power wire at inj. plug so thats good. Need help back is hurting too. LOL
 
yellow light is steady on when the throttle position is trimmed properly. always blinks when cranking.
 
I know this thread is for maps but i just have a simple question..... How well do your cars idle with larger injectors and can the microtech control idle without the stock ecu supporting it?
 
I know this thread is for maps but i just have a simple question..... How well do your cars idle with larger injectors
From what i've seen/heard, 550cc injectors get a bit flakey at low idle speeds - but i'd imagine this would be the case for most computers, given the amount of fuel flow at minimum pulse width.
and can the microtech control idle without the stock ecu supporting it?
it can but not overly well. It is best with the BJ to leave the stock computer to drive the idle control, and a variety of other things (such as the instrument cluster) - idle control requires the use of 1 output and 1 input (input it used for airconditioner idleup).

I've had it running both ways, its far better with the stock computer running it.
 
NEED HELP BAD
Ok just installed integral cams and SR Motorsports cam pulleys and wired in LT10S set cam lobes cylinder one, intake facing firewall and exhaust facing radiator, right, right, crank pulley at TDC installed timing belt turned motor few times ended up Crank pulley mark at TDC and lobes in tdc position and timing marks on cam pulleys horizontal to head, Good right? Why wont it start driving me nuts what am I missing? Not to familiar with software yet. Anyone in northeast Pa Poconos who wants to make some money come on by and help maybe fresh eyes will see something I am missing. Thanks
I know this is really late, so you may have figured it out by now. I recently had issues with my car (2000 Protege ES with Microtech ECU) when trying to use the SR motorsports cam gears. The adjuster screws on the gear were messing with the signal of the Cam Angle Sensor, and causing the car to not rev past 5000 rpms. This was with having a machine shop recess the adjuster screws grooves an additional 2.5mm- apparently not enough. Changed out the Exhaust cam gear back to stock and it worked perfectly.
 
I know this is really late, so you may have figured it out by now. I recently had issues with my car (2000 Protege ES with Microtech ECU) when trying to use the SR motorsports cam gears. The adjuster screws on the gear were messing with the signal of the Cam Angle Sensor, and causing the car to not rev past 5000 rpms. This was with having a machine shop recess the adjuster screws grooves an additional 2.5mm- apparently not enough. Changed out the Exhaust cam gear back to stock and it worked perfectly.

its more than just that dude - the shape of the cam pickups on any available aftermarket cam gears is incorrect - leading to wider signals - wrong signal + interference = wont work.

really what is needed is a remanufactuered stock gear, with a backside mounted adjustment plate that moves independent of the stock pickups...i have a set here that were made up specifically to overcome these problems.
 
I run 440s with a not so hot tune; my idle is good just a little high :) Roughly 1300-1500 rpm haha.
 
I'm idling perfect with 550cc's. I purposely have it up a bit around 1000-1100 to help with low speed power steering dips.
 
Shameless plug - I've got a NIB LT10s for sale in the link in my sig ...
 
A slight update now that I have my Zeitronix installed (datalogging). I was able to get the idle a little better--perhaps 13 AFR. It started dying out during shifts or any time gas was not applied.

Basically I had to change the 1000/1500 maps from roughly 1.14ms to 1.19-1.24ms at -30 through -20 to get it to prevent from stalling. Now it is back to its idle at 1000 through 1400 at a little above 11 AFR.

I'm running 440cc injectors (wrx) with the walboro pump and an LT8S.
 
I'm having a 2-3 minute lean period during warm up. When the car is cold everythings fine, when the car is at or just below operating temps everything is fine. I have logged this a while back and during the lean issue the microtech logs everything at zero. AFR's jump to the 16-17 range during this lean period. I have a LT10, stock injectors and my idle is at 1300rpm and 13-14 afr.

any ideas? going to be making a similar post on the MicroTech forums

I'm aslo going to be instaling a j&s in the next week or so, anyone have any install/tuning tips they could offer?
 
I get the same lean period during cold starts. I'm idling at 1100rpm with an afr of 12.5 once warmed up.
 
Spent a couple hours with my Evo buddy tuning, we got some much nicer maps. If there is any interest, perhaps I can post them up. 440cc injectors, running 8-9psi on stock GT25R.

Now to get a hold of a knock sensor and dyno tune the timing... :D
 
Can anyone post a base map with some 650cc injector thanks. Or can tell me wher i can go.
 
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