Twiggy turbo cams (ones that have been fixed, and i believe they all ended up getting fixed in the end) should be bolt in and drive away. Of course cam gears is going to yield the best results for a particular application, but they should be just fine to bolt in.
Never heard of anyone having to "dyno tune with cam gears" - hell i'm still waiting for someone to post a dyno print out of a ride with the twiggys in - afaik, most of them are sitting on shelves in garages gathering dust while people get the rest of their builds together.
The only people who really NEED to muck with cam timing are the people who bought NA or FI cams and are now wanting to run them on the other setup (only difference in the profiles was the pin location - FI had next to no overlap, NA had a truck load) - or people with NA cams who cannot deal with the high idle and lope..
Also, theres no need to shim the Twiggies (can't speak for the integrals) - as they were machined from blanks, and base circle was dialed in correctly at manufacture (they are not regrinds, so the base circle wasn't reduced). The exhaust cam has a larger base circle, but also has different lash specs, so reshimming shouldn't be neccessary. Most people have found moving the shims they already have around a bit gets them within spec.
That being said - they are pretty damned wild for turbo applications. Plenty of people make big gobs of power on the stock and JDM cam setup with a turbo strapped on - and whilst the gains with them would be nice, the reduction in driving pleasure at low RPM in traffic might not be something people want to really deal with ... :S
pretty awesome that you still make power at 7k with the JDM's...mine had the JDM cams from factory (aussie spec etc) and the power fell in a giant hole in the high 5000's....my 7k the motor was absolutely gasping for air.
