Mazda2 Suspension chart.

[extremez31]

Afternoon All,

Since in in the market for some coilovers I wanted to do a bit of research on what's available for the 2. There is almost no information out there so I decided to put this together over the past week, please feel free to shoot over any additional info. The ford racing b-spec kit is the one i'm leaning towards due to being a true coilover front and rear.

I believe the following Kits are available for the Mazda2 / Fiesta
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Coilover Kits

K Sport Rally Spec AR
Part # CFD260-AR
MSRP $1970.00
Spring Rate Front 280LB
Spring Rate Rear 168LB

K Sport Control Pro
Part # CFD260-KP
MSRP $1450.00
Spring Rate Front 280LB
Spring Rate Rear 168LB

Ford Racing Fiesta Autocross Suspension Kit
Part # M-FR3-FAAC
MSRP $993.00
Made by Bilstein
Spring Rate Front 275LB
Spring Rate Rear 230LB

Ford Racing Fiesta B-Spec Suspension Kit
Part # M-FR3-FAEB
MSRP $1,486.00
Made by Eibach
Spring Rate Front 450LB
Spring Rate Rear 500LB

Megan Racing
Part # MR-CDK-FFS10
MSRP $999.00
Spring Rate Front 281LB
Spring Rate Rear 225LB

K Sport Control Pro
Part # CFD210-KP
MSRP $1800.00
Spring Rate Front 297LB
Spring Rate Rear 168LB

H&R Street Performance
Part # 29043-1
MSRP $1380.00
Spring Rate Front ???
Spring Rate Rear ???

D2 Racing RS
Part # D-MA-01-136
MSRP $1475.00
Spring Rate Front ????
Spring Rate Rear ????

D2 Racing RS
Part # D-MA-01-137
MSRP $1475.00
Spring Rate Front ????
Spring Rate Rear ????

D2 Racing Racing Rally
Part # D-MA-01-RA-503
MSRP $1900.00
Spring Rate Front ????
Spring Rate Rear ????

D2 Racing Racing Rally
Part # D-MA-01-RA-504
MSRP $1900.00
Spring Rate Front ????
Spring Rate Rear ????

XYZ Racing
Part # SS-DMA-001
MSRP $930.00
Spring Rate Front ????
Spring Rate Rear ????

Tanabe Sustec Pro-0C
Part # TSC159
MSRP $1090.00
Spring Rate Front 184LB
Spring Rate Rear 157LB

HKS Hipermax V-Sport
Part # 80180-AZ001
MSRP $1790.00
Spring Rate Front 335LB
Spring Rate Rear 225LB

ST Suspension
Part # 90302
MSRP $1049.99
Spring Rate Front ????
Spring Rate Rear ????

STD R1
Part # MZ01R1
MSRP $1329.00
Spring Rate Front 336LB
Spring Rate Rear 178LB

STD R3
Part # MZ01R3
MSRP $1489.00
Spring Rate Front 336LB
Spring Rate Rear 178LB

STD R7
Part # MZ01T7
MSRP $1909.00
Spring Rate Front 336LB
Spring Rate Rear 178LB


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Lowering Springs

Eibach Pro-Kit
Part # 35123.140 (Fiesta) - I believe will not fit
MSRP $329.00
Spring Rate Front 154LB-325LB (Progressive)
Spring Rate Rear 80LB-125LB-182LB (Progressive)
Drop Front 1.0 IN
Drop Rear 1.1 IN

 

[eyeballs]

Awesome. This needs to be sticky.

Looking at the ford racing spring rates, it seems to me the B-spec kit should work better for autocross than the "autocross" kit since it has more rear spring. That being said the FR "autocross" setup should be predictable and comfy enough for daily driving. I don't believe anyone here has yet tried any of the ford racing kits. I am loving this spring rate info by the way.

Also:

Bilstein PSS Coilover Mazda 2- $970
Tein Street Advance Coilover Mazda 2 - $1316
(from the corksport site, price may not be msrp)

 

[extremez31]

Yeah I only listed MSRP for research purpose. you can find all these things for WAY LESS if you look. the Bilstein kit is the same part number for both the Mazda2 and the Fiesta according to their site. If thats the case then everything should be interchangeable. I already have a line on the Ford Racing B-Spec kit. Lets see if it pans out. If we can make it a sticky i'll update the info up top.

 

[zps2004]

The fact that the rear is a coilover setup in the rear on the b-spec doesn't mean anything. It is a spring and a shock. The fact that the spring is on the shock doesn't really effect anything by the name of it. The reason that they did it for the fiesta is that 500lbs is the max spring rate you are allowed on b-spec. Moving the spring from the factory location to the shock increased the wheel rate of the spring. That was why they did it. Also for autocrossing using SCCA rules, relocating the spring is not allowed for those who follow the letter of the rules. If anything just run a stiffer spring in the factory location to get the same result.

Also there is STD, ST suspensions available.

 

[extremez31]

Thanks for pointing that out, I had not thought of the spring relocation... much appreciated. There were other factors involved in that spec b kit. 46mm pistons, the valving, upper mounts were all solid aluminum etc.

 

[zps2004]

There are other differences. It just bugs me when people choose a coilover just because of the name, when a spring shock does the same thing.

I think it is interesting that most of the suspension options have a very similar spring rate. Usually you see a good variance.

 

[xyrth]

Just from personal experience, I would start with the Bilsteins and compare everything to them. A true pillow-ball top w/adjustable camber that adds caster is the biggest thing that seems to be missing from the Bilstein setup.

Also, I would assume that the 2 (like many other FWD cars) will turn better lap times when the rears are stiffer than the fronts.

 

[xyrth]

There are other differences. It just bugs me when people choose a coilover just because of the name, when a spring shock does the same thing.

I think it is interesting that most of the suspension options have a very similar spring rate. Usually you see a good variance.

Good points. $600 for the Corksport/H&R Combo will be easier to setup, and probably perform just as well, if not better than some of the poorly sorted coil-overs.

 

[CRG Racer24]

Also, I would assume that the 2 (like many other FWD cars) will turn better lap times when the rears are stiffer than the fronts.

This is true.. but it also depends on your suspension setup other than the springs/shocks. In it's simplest form, you are right.

 

[skullsroad]

I hate the whole "rear spring should be stiffer" mentality. But that could be due to the fact that I don't drive on glass smooth race tracks and do a lot of back road "hill-climb" runs. Really stiff rear suspension on a feather-weight car like ours is just asking for surprises when you hit bumps mid corner. Especially on a car (like ours) that doesn't have independent rear suspension. The torsion bar already limits the individual travel of the rear corners so why make it worse?

On topic though. Great list OP. This will come in handy for a lot of searchers.

 

[xyrth]

This is true.. but it also depends on your suspension setup other than the springs/shocks. In it's simplest form, you are right.

I was oversimplifying. Real results come from track days with lots of springs and tinkering.

I hate the whole "rear spring should be stiffer" mentality. But that could be due to the fact that I don't drive on glass smooth race tracks and do a lot of back road "hill-climb" runs. Really stiff rear suspension on a feather-weight car like ours is just asking for surprises when you hit bumps mid corner. Especially on a car (like ours) that doesn't have independent rear suspension. The torsion bar already limits the individual travel of the rear corners so why make it worse?

On topic though. Great list OP. This will come in handy for a lot of searchers.

Tis ok, you can hate on fast turning cars all you want. I do far more street driving than track, and run different spring rates when I get serious.

It's a balancing act. Snap oversteer isn't fun, but rotation is. Our car is pretty darn independent in the rear, far better than a sold rear axle which allows no real flex.

 

[CRG Racer24]

I hate the whole "rear spring should be stiffer" mentality. But that could be due to the fact that I don't drive on glass smooth race tracks and do a lot of back road "hill-climb" runs. Really stiff rear suspension on a feather-weight car like ours is just asking for surprises when you hit bumps mid corner. Especially on a car (like ours) that doesn't have independent rear suspension. The torsion bar already limits the individual travel of the rear corners so why make it worse?

On topic though. Great list OP. This will come in handy for a lot of searchers.

You are being too specific, if that's what you got from stuff I've said. That is one way to achieve a fast handling fwd car, but a stiffer rear suspension in comparison to the front (i.e. stiffer sway bars, chassis bracing, stiffer springs, shock valving, bushings, or one/any of those combos etc.) is what achieves a faster handling fwd car.

I was oversimplifying. Real results come from track days with lots of springs and tinkering.



Tis ok, you can hate on fast turning cars all you want. I do far more street driving than track, and run different spring rates when I get serious.

It's a balancing act. Snap oversteer isn't fun, but rotation is. Our car is pretty darn independent in the rear, far better than a sold rear axle which allows no real flex.

I was under the impression that our cars are, essentially, a solid rear axle.. or torsion beam suspension as it's called.

And like we both know, in it's simplest form, you were right (no condescending meant, implied or inferred).

 

[zps2004]

Not to be picky but the torsion beam isn't as bad as most people make it out to be. Yes it is a beam which links the two sides together, but so is a sway bar. Show me a FWD car which is setup for handling which doesn't have a large rear sway bar. They do the exact same thing. The main downside to the torsion beam is the lack of any camber control.

For example, I was recently working on helping to setup a Chevy Sonic. We were testing rear torsion bar stiffeners we built. We would test them by taking the spring and shock off of the passenger side of the rear. Then we placed scales under each rear wheel. The passenger one we had 2 2X6 pieces of wood on top of the scale. So basically we would lower it until the driver rear would touch the scale. Then you would look at the weight of the passenger wheel, and that would then give you how stiff the torsion beam is at the wheels. The stock torsion beam in the rear was 280lbs over 3 inches which really isn't stiff at all when you look at a sway bar. So for a wheel rate that is 186lbs/in which isn't that stiff for a sway bar. I have yet to do this with the 2 but I am planning on doing it. You can do the same thing with the springs installed to see how much they contribute.

 

[extremez31]

Choosing a brand over its function is not what I'm about, Yes you can probably buy the CorkSport H&R combo for $600.00, its probably a great setup. The value in the B-spec kit is in the quality of its parts and the specifications. These kits can be had for $1,200. I only buy things with clear specifications and documentation. The corksport shocks and struts are great, they are documented but I cant find anything on ANY aftermarket springs. Unless I can find accurate spring rates I would not invest.

Being that the B-spec kit would be illegal for STF its not an option for me, but its a great bang for buck.

I would love to know what the Mazda2's B-Spec kit consists of and the cost of the suspension.

 

[zps2004]

You can still run the Ford b-Spec kit. Just change the spring from the shock to the stock location. You might need to get a adjustable spring perch and a different rear spring, but it can be done. That was what GRM did for their Fiesta last year since they ran it in STF.

 

[extremez31]

I would like to read up on that, do you know what issue that was in? Found it, December 2012.

 

[xyrth]

Lots of quoting & responding, let's hope this doesn't get too cornfusing:

But that could be due to the fact that I don't drive on glass smooth race tracks and do a lot of back road "hill-climb" runs.

I missed this earlier. While most tracks (my experience is limited to CA) are kept up, they don't have potholes, they're hardly glass smooth. They're made of asphalt, just like real roads, have rough spots and dips and bumps. They even have dirt, rocks and oil on them. The difference is that you can drive far more aggressively on them, and can set your car up to be less forgiving.

That is one way to achieve a fast handling fwd car, but a stiffer rear suspension in comparison to the front (i.e. stiffer sway bars, chassis bracing, stiffer springs, shock valving, bushings, or one/any of those combos etc.) is what achieves a faster handling fwd car.

I was under the impression that our cars are, essentially, a solid rear axle.. or torsion beam suspension as it's called.

To me, the big difference between our car and a solid rear axle is that the camber can remain negative. On a solid rear axle your camber is set, and what affects one wheel pushes directly on the others. With a torsion beam rear, they do act independantly.

these two articles are very good to read:

http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2011-mazda-2-touring-suspension-walkaround.html

http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2011-nissan-leaf-suspension-walkaround.html
​

And like we both know, in it's simplest form, you were right (no condescending meant, implied or inferred).

No offense taken. Fair warning - I'm an Aspie and will argue right over you.

Not to be picky but the torsion beam isn't as bad as most people make it out to be. Yes it is a beam which links the two sides together, but so is a sway bar. Show me a FWD car which is setup for handling which doesn't have a large rear sway bar. They do the exact same thing. The main downside to the torsion beam is the lack of any camber control.

For example, I was recently working on helping to setup a Chevy Sonic. We were testing rear torsion bar stiffeners we built. We would test them by taking the spring and shock off of the passenger side of the rear. Then we placed scales under each rear wheel. The passenger one we had 2 2X6 pieces of wood on top of the scale. So basically we would lower it until the driver rear would touch the scale. Then you would look at the weight of the passenger wheel, and that would then give you how stiff the torsion beam is at the wheels. The stock torsion beam in the rear was 280lbs over 3 inches which really isn't stiff at all when you look at a sway bar. So for a wheel rate that is 186lbs/in which isn't that stiff for a sway bar. I have yet to do this with the 2 but I am planning on doing it. You can do the same thing with the springs installed to see how much they contribute.

Excellent. Please let us know the results, I no longer have access to quarter weights.

Choosing a brand over its function is not what I'm about, Yes you can probably buy the CorkSport H&R combo for $600.00, its probably a great setup. The value in the B-spec kit is in the quality of its parts and the specifications. These kits can be had for $1,200. I only buy things with clear specifications and documentation. The corksport shocks and struts are great, they are documented but I cant find anything on ANY aftermarket springs. Unless I can find accurate spring rates I would not invest.

Being that the B-spec kit would be illegal for STF its not an option for me, but its a great bang for buck.

I would love to know what the Mazda2's B-Spec kit consists of and the cost of the suspension.

The Corksport shocks look well designed & documented. A secret to 99% of aftermarket springs: they're the stock spring rate, just lower. This is why Eibach typically has 2 different part numbers, one is stock rates but lower, the other is actually stiffer.

You want coil overs that use a standard 2.5" spring so you can easily try different rates.

 

[Font Motorsports]

Very nice list extremez31. I've actually been in contact with XYZ Racing as I'm about to start offering XYZ Racing Coilovers for sale. So I'll ask 'em. Same goes for the STD's.

 

[Font Motorsports]

Here are the MSRP's for the STD's. Still waiting on the spring rates.

STD R1
Part # MZ01R1
MSRP $1329.00


STD R3
Part # MZ01R3
MSRP $1489.00


STD R7
Part # MZ01T7
MSRP $1909

 

[extremez31]

Thanks Font, I've updated the 3 sets reflecting MSRP, just send me the spring rates and ill add them as well.